WW2Winger

Will, how about a 5-speed knob and pattern? Will that be available as well?

Ok, I did It! I decided to grind off the welds that hold the upper arm, then rotate the arm and re-attach with a TIG welder. Then I cut the link arm and ran it through a die to extend the threads. This allowed me to shorten the link but use the stock plastic ball ends. This is where you have to be very careful. When changing this geometry, be sure that you can still idle and still have full open throttle without the bottom end of the bell crank hitting the firewall. Measure this very carefully, this rod lentgth is very critical. As advertised, this mod made a huge difference in the driveablility of my car. I can now accelerate from a stop without the infamous "jerk". Now I am the only "jerk" in the car.

Joel, this is the type of feedback that makes this forum so valuable. Thank you. Your fix makes perfect sense to me, now, all I have to do is find some more bushings. Thanks again!

I am contemplating doing this mod as well. When you add the washer to the top of the bell crank, how do you now get the e-clip back on? The total height is taller and now the groove in the throttle shaft is covered by the washer and bushing. I know this is probably a dumb question, but before I cut the arm I want to be sure I will be able to get it all back on correctly. Thanks in advance for any help.

Dogma, my experience with the search function is that I learn a great deal and I also find some advice that is in error. I am just trying to get non conflicting data on my current project. By the way, early slave cylinders had external springs. I found that while searching.

10 - 4 , Both the old and the new are the adjustable type. My plan is now to use the short rod (self adjusting) temporarily until I find the proper fork. then, I will pull the tranny and go adjusting all the way. The short rod will work with the older style slave, it's just not like it should be. thanks for your input, I appreciate it.

Update .... the slave cylinder that I just received from Courtesy has the hole for the external spring. Now, after re-reading this thread several times, there still seems to be a difference of opinion. My question is this...is there any real difference in the slave cylinders other than this hole for the spring? In other words, why can't I just use my non-adjusting pin in this new slave? Remember, I don't have a hole in my fork for the spring and I really don't want to remove the tranny again unless I have to.

Easy John ....just don't ask him to meet you back bvehind the stadium!!

Thanks Stephen. Courtesy says that I will have both cylinders early next week, so I will report back as to how it goes. Also new hose just to be sure there is no flex there. Thanks again.

I have not changed master cylinder yet. When I get the new MC and slave cylinder, I will install, bleed, adjust, and report. How much free play should there be at the slave cylinder? I know there should be no pre load, but is there a value as to the clearance at the slave?

I'm really confused now! My slave has a hole for the spring, but the fork does not. Looks like a miss match to me. After suspecting that the slave was going away, I have ordered a new slave from Courtesy and am anxious to see if it has a hole or not. Then I will have more questions as to whether I have the wrong fork or not and to use a spring or not. Don't want to get too long, but here is my story: I have replaced clutch and Pressure plate (Centerforce), flywheel (Fidanza), and transmission (5-speed). Everything worked fine for a short drive, then I felt something let go or break or something in the clutch pedal feel. The tranny would not go into reverse but other gears seemed fine. I adjusted pedal throw...didn't help. Removed tranny and inspected clutch assembly. Everything looked good so I re-installed. Now seems to run fine. Wanting to eliminate all variables, I have ordered a new MC and slave cylinder so the entire clutch system will be new. Only clues I have for you are...the first drive, I noticed that the clutch released very near the top of the pedal travel, now, after re-installation it releases like it used to nearer the floor. Could it possibly be that the increased force of the new Pressure plate has surfaced issues with the hose or slave cylinder. Since I suspect that, I will be replacing.

How about the "non-adjusting" slave ? Is it truelly non-adjusting? Would the only adjustment then be the free play at the pedal? Thanks

Arne, do you have any underside pictures of how yours is mounted. I got mine from MSA and, in just holding it up, it does not look like it fits perfectly. Any pictures from anyone of the underside so that I can see the fit would be appreciated.

Good pictures Stephen, I am closing in on the completion of replacing differential, transmission, brakes, bushings, steering rack, radiator, and more, so I understand exactly where you are with your project. Mine is also a '71. Best of luck and be sure to give us the "after" pictures.

Just a note .... Carl Beck, with all due respect for your list of equipment needed to work on Zs, I noted that you left out the refrigerator. I'm sure it was just an oversight, but it needs to be added to the list.

Made my brackets last night and I think they will be fine. This moves the strap 30mm rearwards which puts it in the proper place over the differential. Simply a plate with three holes. The first hole mounts to the existing forward hole on the chassis. The middle hole accepts a bolt through the front strap mount bracket hole and then into the rear chassis hole. And the third hole accepts a bolt going through the rear strap bracket. This gives the strap bracket two holes to mount to and moves the bracket back 30mm. Thanks again to John Mortensen for his consultation. It was actually his idea to move the bracket back, he just put one bolt in it, I simply added another bolt.

Thanks, My apologies for taking that thread astray. I was on a roll and looking for a solution. I appreciate the advice about the spacer and caliper grinding. As little as needs to be removed, I believe I will hit the grinder tonight and then re-paint the calipers. I believe removing as little as .012 will give me clearance and another few thousanths will give me peace of mind. As always, thanks again.

Got my Rewinds today and they just touch the brake caliper which prevents them from seating. I measured and measured and it looks like I will have to grind about a tenth of an inch off of the outside of the caliper just where it touches the rim. The larger brake caliper will have to be ground at the point of the raised "rib" just a bit. I called MSA and they confirm that this is appropriate. Anyone else have this experience?

I have a BRE style Spook that I have not put on yet. Speaking of that Arne, I would love to see underside pictures of your spook and how you mounted it. I remember when you did it but never saw the results. Right now though, my front end is stock and I intend to install the spook after I see what the new wheels and tires present.

That's good to hear, BRE..., That is the same setup that I have and it is comforting to hear that you have no issues. Same setup even down to the Rewinds. Thanks

After questioning Arne and researching this forum for several days, I am pulling the trigger and ordering 225/50/15 tires today. My '71 is lowered about an inch and I have read that "some" have rubbing problems, but I guess we will see. I had to go to 15 inch wheels since I've added bigger brakes and really didn't want to go to 16 inch. I'll let ytou know in a few days if there are rubbing issues. I hope not!

Hojkue, Welcome to the site. Walt280Z above is correct. Steve Ehlers is as good as it gets when it comes to all Z's. The drive down from Denton is relatively short. I also agree that Steve would give you a very thorough inspection and assist you in compiling a list of "to dos". I'm in Granbury and have been to Steve's shop on many occasions. He just completed building me an '83 5 speed for my '71 and it looks brand new! He is very meticulous as Walt said above. If I can be of any help, even though I'm a 240 type, let me know.

Some call them "snorkel tubes" I think the real name is elbow vents. They are under the hood, hard plastic vent hoses that connect the radiator support with the right front fender. Also, under the dash ...the right hand "demister" tube. Thanks

Thanks a lot Arne. If yours looks like this one, I'll be calling Classic soon. I appreciate your help. and look forward to the pictures.

Ya know ... I asked the same question a few weeks ago about that front air dam. After getting your answer, and I don't dispute your knowledge, I looked at the BRE air dams and they look quite a bit larger than the one on your Pops car. I prefer the style on his car but I am afraid to just buy a BRE since the pictures I've seen look quite a bit different. If anyone has expertise in this area, help me find an air dam that is similar to the European model which is thin and looks a lot like this car. Anyway, I like the car and the air dam, I'm just trying to insure that I get what is on your car versus what I have seen being depicted as BRE style.