WW2Winger

The float adjustment is in the height of the float itself. There is a small tab that contacts the valve that can be slightly bent to adjust the action of the float. Adjusted to the correct level, the bowls are about half full as viewed upon removing the tops. At least that is my experience.

Anyone have good photos of the various brands? Also sources for Spooks, etc.?

Thanks for the A/C information. I still have that system and any and all information could be useful. My car is a 8/71 build date #41546

Z Train, OK, we can say that because it's true. After re-reading the posts prior to mine again, I can see why it was ... unclear. Thanks

Z Train - Hold on, I'm on your side. I just thought that I would add another angle to the discussion that had not been introduced yet. Yes, this is outrageous from many angles. How can the "officials" justify destroying property which belongs to, in some cases, a third party who is expecting those same "officials" to attempt to recover their lost goods? It's like being robbed and when they catch the thief, they burn the money!

Why has no one any sympathy for those from whom the parts were stolen? How would you like to file a police report for some items being stolen only to watch them being crushed just because they can? What happened to returning stolen items back to their owners?

Hey Bigoak, how do you enlarge the print and the illustrations on these fiche pages? Good information there, but this dummy can't see well enough to read part numbers and I don't know how to enlarge the pages. Thanks for any help.

Looks like a good event, wish it wasn't 2500 miles away! Arne, is it my mistake or what? It seems that there are an innordinate amount of Zs located in the Northwest. Is this a dumb observation that has been discussed before, or is there a reason that the NW has such a concentration of early Zs?

Everyone wants to go to heaven, but nobody wants to die!

I appreciate everyones responses. Thanks to all

I'm having to remove my intake and exhaust manifolds. Long story that I won't bore you with. Since I have the intake off, what is the best method of cleaning it and protecting it so that it will be easy to maintain in a clean condition? I have a few ideas, but I wanted the advice of all you experts out there. '71 240Z Thanks

Welcome. It's nice to have other "Old Timers" on the forum. This is a great place to learn and share. My first Z was a '71 which I bought in "73. I kept it about 6 years. I have now bought another '71 that I will not sell. It's too much fun! Enjoy your new Z family.

Just finished putting Tokico springs with Illumina cartridges on my '71. It lowered the car exactly 1 inch on all four corners. I like the look of it and the handling is improved but over what was in it, anything would be an improvement. The adjustable nature of the Illuminas is good. Set soft for around town and firm it up to have fun. Even on the lowest setting, this setup is firm. OK by my standards but just be aware. If you decide on Tokico, check out "Shox.com" for good pricing.

Just bought some from Courtesy about a month ago for my '71. Very inexpensive. They are held on by three metal screws. Good luck.

Madkaw, pretty close. Mine is 8/71 #41546

Thanks Jeff and Carl. I think these were very common back then, but I was curious as to how hard they are to find now. If anyone else has information or sources for replacement caps, let me know. By the way Carl, how do you do it? In a matter of minutes you sent a very old ad for my wheels. How do you know where to find this type of stuff? I don't remember what I read yesterday !! One more thing everyone .... What's the best cleaner to deep clean these wheels? They are in good shape, but age is showing some tarnish. Thanks

Dumb question, but can someone give me the scoop on my wheels? They are "US INDY MAG" 14 x 6. Who made them, are they still available, where can I get new center caps for them, etc ??? Thanks

If you just need a place to store it for a while, give me a PM, I'm only 4 hours away and have an aircraft hangar with room to spare. That is, room to spare for neat stuff!

Arne and Beandip, We (there I go again "we") are masking progress. I changed out the damper oil last night to 20 wt. fork oil and there is a noticeable difference. I had my doubts, but it is much smoother and the acceleration is still very strong. There is still a hint of the pulsing that was the original problem, but significantly reduced. I didn't have time last night, but I intend now to go back and do the whole carb setting and balancing thing again. I feel like I am very close and I appreciate your help very much. Stay with me.......

Roger on that "one change at a time". If I get home early enough tonight, I will be changing out the damper oil as that apears to be the quickest fix and also something that should be done anyway, even if it does not address my immediate problem. Thanks again for the response and I will report back as this continues. It will be interesting to see if it is one silver bullet or a combination of several things that resolve this.

Both are great suggestions. Thanks Arne and Beandip, please stay tuned (play on words) till we get this resolved. Notice I said "we" get this resolved. I think I will try these suggestions one at a time. I am using MMO for the damper, so Beandip could be right on target there. Since I don't know the history of the Distributor, could that be an issue as well? If the Distributor itself has some gear wear, under load it might not show itself but, allowed to "coast" it could be fluctuating the timing. Does this make any sense at all? I will try your suggestions first and I will be interested in your thoughts on this distributor thing. One more thing, this car has a very restrictive exhaust. It has the original manifoldm which is OK, but the rest of the pipe is very small, probably original. It will be replaced soon. Could this also present too much back pressure on this larger displacement engine at low throttle? Just a thought. Again thanks so much. Stay with me now. I look forward to smoothing this out because this is a very nice car and I love driving it. It's a keeper as far as I'm concerned.

Thanks for the response. They are round top and no, there is no EGR valve. I will also add that the car starts perfectly, with some choke in cold weather. It runs perfectly under load, but just surges when at a steady cruise. Previous owner had the L28 block installed and, at the same time, had the head totally re worked to address sinking valves, etc. Thanks so much for any leads.

Mine is a 71 Z with a L28 lower end and an E88 head. My problem is low speed driveability. That is, it has a moderate "surge" when trying to maintain a speed. For example, if you try to hold 3000 RPM in third gear, you will feel a surge back and forth which makes it uncomfortable. If you accelerate, it runs very well all the way up the RPM range. Things I have done .... New Dist. cap and rotor, new plugs and plug wires, new points, timing and dwell adjusted, new fuel filter, cleaned and adjusted, and balanced SUs, set valves cold. Plugs are whitish and clean, no soot or fouling. Car runs very well during acceleration at all RPMs in all gears. It is just not quite right driving in normal neighborhood conditions. I have enrichened the carbs and leaned then a bit at a time to no avail.. My plans going forward are to check leak down and purchase a "color tune" to see if that shows me anything. Like I said, she runs great in all aspects except this surging when trying to maintain a speed. I have searched the forum for "surging" and not found anything that resembles this symtom. Any ideas to try?

I was seriously considering buying this car back in December. The stamping of one of the ID plates looked questionable to me, but the amount of rust and restoration work that needs to be done to this car is more than I wanted to take on. My thought was that if you are going to own a very early car, that you need to restore it correctly and thoroughly. With the amount of work to be done and my questions about the matching of all the numbers, I decided to pass. I was not ready for this level of investment. Instead, I found a '71 that is just what I wanted. Ready to drive and enjoy, but with enough work to do to keep me busy and not put me into bankruptcy. Good luck.

Hold on guys, don't go away yet. Here is my story. Before getting into carburetor adjustments, I wanted to be sure the ignition was top notch. I replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Then I installed Pertronix. The car ran OK but the tach didn't work. I have re-wired till I'm totally confused. I have by passed the resistor but the tach acts very bad. It is jumpy and above 3000 RPM goes really crazy and even goes to zero. Also, at this point, the car acts like it is missing and erratic. Car was running reasonably well before Pertronix and my wiring efforts. I'm sure it's not the Pertronix, but my efforts. I have now lost track of even where I was. I know this is a simple fix, but I only have a few minutes each night to investigate, the weekend is when I will have more time, but this is heavily on my mind. Right now I have the Pertronix connected directly to the coil, a Green with white tracer wire connected to a black with white tracer wire at one end of the resistor. I have another black with white wire connected to the pos. side of the coil. This is a '71 240. Thanks for any advice.