geezer

Just random thoughts & a WAG. I don't think you "fixed the problem" by blocking the return line, but you did create a condition that enabled the engine to get sufficient fuel volume and pressure in order to operate properly throughout the RPM range. It could possibly be a failing fuel pump or a fuel restriction in the system. Try getting a fuel pressure reading from the pump and also check for a properly working evaporative emissions system if it is still intact. If it has been bypassed, try removing the fuel cap to see if a vacuum is being created in the tank thereby restricting fuel flow. Just guesses, you have to start somewhere and you will want your fuel return line operative before the weather turns hot once again.

Thanks for the link Kats. I think it is incredible that you were able to find this! The engraving equipment shown is similar to what I would have expected to see. We cannot see the business end of the machine, but it is somewhat obvious how it works. What surprises me is, it appears that there are a series of levers for selecting the correct characters which require input from the operator/worker. I would have thought that a data link would be incorporated into this equipment, automatically selecting the characters as scheduled, during this time period. Or perhaps the machine is "online" with a broadcast system and the operator is doing something other than inputting the chassis number with the levers. Interesting.

Anyone else find it an interesting point that the codes on a LH drive car are found on the RH door lock. Seems to me, it would make more sense being on the side that is more likely to need replacing first. Just thinking out loud.

Cool video! First time I've seen it also; must have missed it when first posted. Thanks George! Here the link. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=27205

Evil Turkey - While I'm not one to discourage someone else from taking on a job of this magnitude, I would estimate the cost and time spent will not be worth it in the end. It most likely will be neccesary to replace the floors, floor supports, outer rockers, outer wheel houses, etc. just for starters. At some point in the past, someone reinforced the front frame rails and replaced some metal, from what I can see. These cars have to be disected and turned inside out to get access to all the hidden rust. Sure you could make this car roadworthy once again, but first ask yourself if it really is worth the cost or time spent. In the end you are much better off starting off with a better condition car.

The sway bar mounting bolts are M8x1.25. That is the description that accompanies part number 08120-82010 (8mmX1.25X25mm). Good luck with the car.

Welcome speedtripper and that's a good question that has come up before regarding Zee or Zed. It's all good; the cars themselves differ substantially around the globe, so why not the way we refer to them as well? I don't believe I have ever heard the opinion of a native Japanese speaker on this question. How would that equate?

Hi there Evil Turkey...good user ID since it is Thanksgiving Day here today! Wow, I agree, that is a massive repair job you are thinking of taking on. I would love to see more pictures of the rest of the car, in order for us to give better advise. From the limited views we can see, it would appear that the second option of transferring the good parts to a better chassis is your best bet. Put up more pics of the typical trouble areas.

I would have to agree that Princess Auto is a good place to kill an hour or so and maybe pick up a few good deals. I drop in about once a month just to check out the "surplus aisles" to see what they have added. The closest stores they have to the GTA would be in Mississauga to the west, Whitby to the east and Newmarket to the north. Spend a little more time here and you will learn how to live without Diet Mountain Dew:...and go home sporting an 8 dollar haircut (2 dollars a corner)Eh?

Here is the link to the last time we discussed this car and the difficulty of getting better pics and answers from the seller. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37252

The "Reserve" has been removed, so it will sell.

Cool find Mike! Good eye, recognizing it for what it is. These tags sure fuel the imagination, don't they? Even more curious, is where you found it, on top of the inner fender.

The safest way to test for a short to ground coming from under the dash, without letting more of the smoke out is this: Pull the fuses from your fusebox. This will isolate the individual circuits, allowing you to pinpoint the short. Using a multimeter or a simple test light, connect one lead to the battery (+) and use the other lead/probe to check each fuse cavity/holder. If the test light glows, you have found the bad circuit and also determined which side of the fuse the circuit is shorted to ground. It is then just a matter of following the circuit until the cause is found. A wiring diagram will be helpful also. There are often many points in a particular circuit that enable you to further isolate a short to ground, such as disconnecting a connector. You just have to get in there and use the process of elimination. Don't pull out your dash prematurely, its probably not neccesary. You will gain more knowledge by systematically testing for a short to ground, than having us guys play guessing games. As already stated, good grounds are very important also.

James, I'm glad to hear that a much greater tragedy was narrowly missed and also that you and your family escaped injury and didn't experience serious property damage. It seems that natural disasters are becoming more frequent in recent years around the globe.

Hi Kobo, I am curious if there was any progress made from the meetings you had in Japan, in regards to the reproduction of the replacement headlight covers that fit the OEM rings? I just got my headlight rings back from the chrome shop and am now looking for options. If you have something in the works, I will gladly wait, otherwise I am thinking of approaching a local company who specializes in vacuum forming plastics and the creation of 3 dimensional signs. I know it is a difficult prospect, with limited volume causing the price per to escalate. I am wondering if the demand for replacements is great enough?

I wouldn't feel comfortable suggesting that. I haven't even tried to power mine up in the 4 years that I've had it, don't know if it works and it is also in need of a complete cosmetic restoration. I paid next to nothing for it and am just now considering what it will need so I can possibly use it in my car. It's actually going to be a toss up between the stock(ish) AM radio or a radio delete plate. One of these would be perfect.

If you want, we can just unsolder each of our leads and swap them. That would make it easier for both of us. I took a pic of the red indicator, but didn't study it yet to see how easy it would be to change out. I don't want to change mine anyhow. Maybe, a piece of transparent red plastic might be all you need to change the color of your indicator light. I started removing the panels from the chassis, so I can give this radio a thorough cleaning before lubricating the moving parts.

I am thinking you would be best served using something like a weather Pack bulkhead connector. I have one I'm using for another project and the quality is unmatched. I think if you do some searching you will be able to find an appropriately matched one for your purposes. I attached the link just as an example, it depicts a 22 cavity version. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/weather-pack-22-position-bulkhead-connector-kit-p-364.html

Ditto on the red indicator light on my TM-1081ZA Mike and thanks for posting the manual scans. John, I also removed the cover for the power wires out of curiosity and found it would be a very simple job to change the wiring configuration right at the radio instead of using an adapter harness, if you wanted to.

Funny John, that's exactly what I need to make the reverse of, if I use this radio. From what I can determine, all the instrument panel harnesses up to 12/70 used the same 3-cavity power antenna wire connector. I mailed out the antenna jumper harness you need to make this connection on the morning of the 27th, so you should be able to test it out soon. Yeah, it's only the one black knob I have missing. I've been beat out on Ebay a few times trying to get one cheap.

30 applications from 1 tin doesn't seem too bad even at $55. for the Wet Obsession if you end up with results like that and the Finish-It compound is cheap enough. The paint looks absolutely gorgeous in the pics! It is hard to believe you were considering a repaint.

A cheap multimeter and a wiring diagram, should be all you need to track down the problem. Don't start replacing wires unnecessarilly.

Ahha, I understand now. Not meaning to critique the R/T mount, but it seems that there is still room for improvements in the design that would allow for a small amount of adjustability, without flipping it around or elongating the hole, maybe? Edit: Just an observation; I have a 23mm rear sway bar that was taken from a '74 FairladyZ. It shows evidence of the driveshaft not having enough clearance also. So, this was an occurance with the stock diff mounts as well, for some models anyhow.

Proof that all the hard work is worth it! Very well done!