geezer

Sounds like you guys had a good time and gained some valuable knowledge for next time out. I think just finishing is a great accomplishment! Congrats!

One more and you will have one for each day of the week!

It must be an Ebay regional (Ebay ca) thing. It doesn't appear for me either. When you have noticed, mentioned this in the past, it was the same for me. Curious.

I think you still have my address, but I will PM it to you anyhow.

Jeff, I have a few ZX distributors with the E1280 modules that I can loan you if needed.

I am the last guy that should give advise on welding machines. I have forgot more than I know and they are also constantly evolving. A few years ago, I got aggravated enough blowing holes through thin metal, that I just walked into the local welding supply store and explained the problem. I wanted a MIG welder that could best handle thinner metal. I already had larger machines for other purposes capable of handling thicker material. The Millermatic 140 was what I went out the door with. I dropped about $1000 CND by the time I bought all the basic extras needed. This machine has the ability to fine set the wire speed as well as the heat settings, not just a high/low switch. My other MIG is great for heavier jobs and I used it to build my rotisserie, but it caused me a lot of grief on thin metal. I suggest you talk to a few guys in the business of using them as well as reputable sales people who can explain the nuances of the different machines available. I really am just a guy who learns to use what hes got, and not up on the best available today. I suggest gaining some insight by visiting a welding forum, searching and asking about preferences. The last sentence in your last post made me think you don't have enough information to select the right machine yet. Although a heavier machine would be beneficial on the farm for other uses, it probably isn't the best choice for welding thin metal.

There are a total of 5 different steering wheels listed in the 1970 Fairlady Z parts catalog. For the PS30, 48400-E4200 is shown as being used previous to chassis number PS30-00401 and 48400-E8205 is shown as being used from PS30-00401. There was also the optional steering wheel, 48400-E4110 available. Other than this information, it doesn't say what the differences were from the early standard wheel for the PS30 and the later 1970 PS30 wheel. The illustrations in the catalog are not numbered for identification purposes either. I was just left wondering what steering wheel should be in this car.

I guess it all depends on the capabilities of your welding equipment but with a little practice you should be able to fill gaps the size shown in your last 2 pics by using a copper backing tool. I have several different ones that I use for different situations, but find the more substantial hefty ones with some weight to them work the best. I make use of the large copper punch/drift in the pic below most often. (It does double duty removing universal joints too.) Just dip it regularly in the can of nozzle dip to keep it cool and prevent slag from building up. Exercising patience and a clean work piece helps a great deal too.

Wonder if setting them in hot water for a bit before installing them would help prevent breaking any tabs? It might give them more flexibility. The dish soap sounds plausible too.

The easiest, most economical, water resistant method of replacing fusible links in my opinion would be with maxi fuses inserted into these holders. Parallel connectors crimped onto your existing harness covered with some heat shrink makes it an easy installation leaving the maxi fuses accessible. Remember, you can never go wrong by starting out with a smaller rated fuse if you are concerned with choosing the proper rating. I will see if I can dig up a link.

Hey Arnie, welcome to the "International Brotherhood of Paper Thin Metal Welding"! This is the very reason why I bought a new welder capable of welding thinner material then my others could. A few years ago I bought a Millermatic 140 which helped a great deal but is still no match for a TIG welder. I've never used a gasless MIG, so don't know what that's like. After experimenting with your settings on a sample piece of metal of the same gauge there are still other ways to improve your results. You mention the flange tool, which is great if you are able to use it in the confines of the repair. It gives you more surface area for the weld to flow over without burning through an edge. In areas where butt welding is neccesary or prefered I use a variety of copper tools to serve as a backing. A few heavy duty copper chisels, drifts, punches and other implements I have collected over the years, get used for this purpose regularly. As long as you can use the copper for a backing and use a momentary on/off welding technique the weld won't be able to burn through and will not weld to the copper. Do not try to fill gaps much wider than twice the thickness of your wire. I keep a can of nozzle dip on hand for coating the copper. A little practice, some grinding, going over it again and you will eventually get the results you desire. Practice makes perfect. Good luck!

That mount looks like it has suffered the kind of metal fatigue damage found in extremely cold climates, not California. I agree with Bart, it would be a good idea to give it a good look-over for other damage or loose parts that could have contributed to this.

Your car looks great Steve! Good luck correcting the remaining issues and Good luck to your son at the State competition. Won't be long now, you will be reaping in the well deserved praise and catching up on your sleep. Nice Job!

One thing that came to mind were the modifications that may or may not have been made to 1973 models with the V-3 program. I don't know if this could have any bearing on the issue but thought I would at least mention it.

The grill will clean up nicely, doesn't appear to be bent up. You have a calender clock and a passing indicator switch on the turn signal stalk. You will find it interesting, finding all the different features not found on our cars in North America.

This is an illustration of part number 17201-E4100. I am always looking to better what I already have and will make an offer for this tank, as I'm sure others will also. Do I really need it? No, but it would be a nice addition. Wow Mike, the tank for HLS30-00210 is in great condition! Also thanks for the offer.

You are going to need the space for all your other new parts, so it might be best if you just sell that tank to me. I wouldn't want you to trip over it and risk getting injured. Not only that but I even have a camera that works and could take pics to post here.

My parts catalogs and microfiche are out on loan, so I can't check the tank part number right now, but certainly would be interested in buying it from you if you do decide to sell it. The evaporator tanks were not a requirement in Canada in 1970. I have also been keeping an eye out for one of those front fiberglass valance panels you mentioned in the other thread. If there is a chance of the seller parting with it shoot me a PM.

Come on now, its only 60 miles away. Take a few hours out of your day, go look it over and decide for yourself what the true condition of the car is. We certainly can't make a determination with any degree of certainty by looking at pictures on a monitor. Some people have a knack for making cars appear better in a photo than they actually are. Forget about wire transfers, that's not an issue if you do buy and pick the car up in person.

Nice job! You are lucky to have access to such inovative equipment. That is very impressive technology. Wonder how long it will be before we will be able to purchase the 3D file online and print out parts on our home rapid prototyping machines. My guess is, not long.

I share your view on a mediocre sound system for a Z. When I bought my Z it had this rear panel mounted with these rear speaker grills mounted in place of the tail light access covers. I always thought this idea could be improved on allowing for better speakers. I really like your 3D model sketch for the front kick panels. I think something like that would be great popped out in plastic with a set of matching rear panel grills.

Ask the mechanic if he minds you watching while he earns your $100.00. It could be an opportunity for you to pick up some valuable information and save yourself lots of aggravation. Just a thought and you would also make your deadline, if he is successful.

Here is a better view of the oil cooler mounting hardware. No nut is shown for the bottom so you would think a captured nut would have been used. Also a quantity of only two nuts are shown for the top mounting. My 10/70 has the mystery weldnut on the top also.

That looks to be a good choice. Duplicolor also has the CP 199 Adhesion Promotor, which would be a good idea to use beforehand for covering plastic parts with the bedliner.

HaHa! Thanks Mike, "Brooks" is unheard of in these parts. I really wanted to see a pic of a yellow Z under that bottle. Why am I getting a hankering for a hotdog?