geezer

Hi Rick, consider this theory. I doubt that you would have found any consecutive chassis numbers being run down the production line. It just isn't that cut & dried. They were more than likely shuffled and reshuffled many times for a variety of reasons, even before construction had begun. It is even possible that the chassis numbers (VINs) were assigned as the orders from the various markets came in. There certainly would be no need and it would not even be logistically possible to maintain a consecutive build format. All the cars would have been painted in the same booth and run down the same paint line. During that time period, paint was pumped and filtered from 55 gallon drums and run through paint lines to the spray booth. Pressure feed guns were common place and unnecessary color changes were kept to a minimum in order to save on solvents needed to flush the lines and guns. Prior to reaching the paint booth the cars were banked on accumulator lines and more than likely according to color. So, you see it is possible to paint cars in batches of the same color but not consecutively. I'm not saying this is how Nissan did it but it was the industry method of operation during this era.

Great pics! She turned out absolutely gorgeous! So many great looking Zs gracing the pages of this site!

Yep, that's them. Not a bad product in my opinion, but they would be greatly improved if there was a way to lubricate them without taking them apart. Mine were galled/fused to the bolts so badly there was no way to take them apart without cutting the bolts. Years of sitting neglected didn't help. PS-You didn't need two threads to get to the bottom of this issue Mark.

I would be interested in replacement plexiglass lenses for the OEM headlight rings.

I have the same or similar that I have been unable to remove without damage. The washers are made of aluminum and are galled tightly onto the bolts. I think you will be able to substitute the bolt & nut with an aftermarket alternative if they are NLA. Edit: Here is a better view of the stock bolt, nut, washer and bushing (15, 16, 17, 14).

Great footage Kats! I really appreciate you sharing and giving us an opportunity to see these videos. I have watched them several times now and I find myself wishing I could freeze the frames. Thanks for posting them!

I made note of the part numbers for these the other day. I need some in the near future also. Bolt - 54436-E4100 Nut - 08912-84410 Washer - 56114-09400 Try your local Nissan Parts Dealer first.

Whos on first?

According to the Fel-Pro site the metal side goes against the manifold. http://www.federalmogul.com/en/AftermarketSolutions/Asia-Pacific/SealingSolutions/Products/LeakRepair/Fel-ProManifold/Exhaust/

I took your advice Steve and now have a set of the Wesco WELR-N belts. My trim panels are not in the car yet and I've been studying how to mount the retractors. I am considering cutting a pocket into the inner sail panel and welding in new mounting points, so I can reverse mount them. There should be only about an inch protruding into the cabin by doing so. Also they will be positioned lower, which will be better for me, I think. I need to study the retractor covers to see if they can be easily reversed also. When I get to the interior work I will take pics to show how it worked out.

Nothing to report here yet Mitchell, I haven't run the engine yet since having the header and intake manifold ceramic coated. For me this was not an inexpensive cosmetic only thing either. The header is almost 40 years old and I am interested in preserving it as well as hopefully benefiting from the results of the ceramic coating. I had the header coated inside & out and the intake outside only. I will follow through with my findings and post them here eventually.

Good score! I was looking for one of those Perfect Plastic 1 piece front valances for a long time, then recently found out they are now being made by Classic Datsun. steve91tt is mounting one of Les's on his car, pictured in his thread here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=329993#post329993 Interested in selling the Perfect Plastic valance?

Very nice Arne! Care to share what the final cost was? Did you enquire about a custom cargo area mat also?

Other than that minor fitment issue with the valance, it looks like its going to be alright and looks right at home on the car. I need to order one. The new paint looks great Steve!

You sure know how to make us northeast guys that are battling with the rust monster drool all over our keyboards! She seems to be in great condition for an old gal. I wish I started out with one half as nice.

The other problem, even if the welds are successfully drilled out in the proper location there possibly is going to be an excess weld build-up on the backside still. It wouldn't have been ground flush because of the difficulty of reaching this area. Because of this weld build-up on the back of the panel the emblem clips may not fasten as designed and you will risk having them fall off. I agree, it may be best to use the 3M tape. The templates are on the way. Good luck with the reassembly!

First, the new paint looks great Carl! Love the color too! I can provide you with the sail panel emblem templates. I still have a set I made up for another member who never got back to me, to tell me where to send them. If you want them, I'll repeat the offer, just PM me with a mailing address. Another thing to consider is the nature of a mig welded hole. I can tell you from experience that the mig welded metal deposits are much harder than the surrounding metal. Also, may not be perfectly flat on the backside, causing increased difficulty in drilling and the possibility of breaking a bit, damaging the paint. Just something else to consider for whoever is going to drill the holes. Hard to access from the backside too. We discussed this same issue in this thread. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33399&highlight=quarter+panel+emblem+holes

Very nice indeed!!

Looks like a nice piece. I see they simulated the joints of a 3 piece valance. That is something the Peerless part didn't have, that I thought would make it look more realistic. I am thinking it should be easier to work with fiberglass to prevent any tire rubbing issues and still maintain the stock appearance also. Looking forward to seeing it mounted on your car!:classic:

Good work Mike! A link in your signature line would be a nice touch too. After the initial input from everone of the "known" unique features, any additional entries in the future would merit a certain amount of discussion, before being considered. To avoid any erroneous activity, it may be best to leave the updates to you alone. New discoveries are not going to overwhelm you. It would be just as nice of an information resource, being "read only". Just thinking out loud.

The F4W71B was introduced with HLS30-46001 which was the start of the 1972 model, but we all have learned how blurred the lines of model division or actual part introduction actually was.

At least the type A 4 speeds are easy to find still. I failed at my attempts to give them away at a swap meet.

There are 3 different part numbers shown for the Assy Lid, Gas Filler up to 07/71 in the parts catalog. Its not apparent what the differences are. There is only 1 spring listed (#78817-E4600); no date associated with it. In the Glenn Mitchell Estimator illustration from early 1970 the door is shown with no spring. Also a north/south gas door lock orientation is shown.

I'm hoping it's what I've been waiting for also. The ones formerly made by Peerless don't appear for sale very often and I didn't bid high enough, the last time one turned up on Ebay. I want to bond my spook to it and make it a single rigid assembly. I'll add the steel one to the "original" pile.

Did I miss it, or does someone have a pic of the one piece fiberglass valance from Classic Datsun?