geezer

They don't make the upright guards out of stainless, so if you used your stock ones, you would suffer the dissimilar metals syndrome. I've seen the corrosive effects of that before. Its worse then the dreaded scourge of tortellini! Just kiddin ya! As far as mounting the stock ones, I would have to take precise measurements to give you a definite opinion.

Here is a brief tutorial on the different types of stainless steel and their uses. These bumpers are made from 304/1.4301. I am certainly no expert on all the different stainless alloys, but I know "shiny" and will let you know how they hold up. http://berlinmetals.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=54&Itemid=61 http://www.aalco.co.uk/technical/datasheets/Aalco_Datasheet_St_St_304.pdf

According to Nissan HLS30-46001 was the starting serial number for the 1972 Model Year. This does not mean there were not discrepeancies in how the cars were outfitted.

Maybe that would be the case if you bought from the Ebay ad. You would have to contact them to get an answer that addresses your situation. I just know how it went for me.

Thanks Mike - Pictures really don't do them justice. If I had my old bumpers re-chromed, I would have needed new rubber also, so it was one more reason I decided to go this route. Chris - They were shipped directly from Ho Chi Minh City. That was one of the things I was curious about.

I'm in Windsor, which is actually south of Detroit Michigan. About a 3 1/2 hour drive southwest of Toronto. There are a half dozen Zs here amongst 3 Z guys who keep in touch. The Toronto area has more going on. Drop a post on the Ontario Z Car Club to warn everyone and find out what events will be taking place during your stay. http://ontariozcar.com/forum/

Here locally, we have Cross Canada Auto Body Supply that stocks or can get just about everything like that. I'll stop in tomorrow and take pics of any available 1.75" plugs. I even have a healthy stash of used ones of various sizes I can rummage through if you get stuck. I never thought they would be hard to track down.

Makes sense and thanks for the leg work Jim. I will give him a call in the morning.

spitz - No, that is a reseller. I bought from the Harrington Group. They have an Ebay listing but also advertize and sell elsewhere globally. Here is the offer I recieved in an email response: The price for one set of the Datsun 240Z bumpers is USD 1,154 including shipping to Canada. However, I can offer you a special price of USD 1,085 if you order directly with us, not through eBay. Regarding to payment methods, please let me know which one you would like to use: bank transfer, paypal, credit card…. You will find the detail at the bottom of this email. Please do not hesitate to contact me if you have any question. Best regards, Thy Le Bao Quoc Sales Executive Harrington Group shine@GroupHarrington.com www.GroupHarrington.com www.isettashop.com Tel: +44 121 288 12 50 PAYMENT METHODS: We accept: - Credit Card (Master Card and Visa Card). - Debit cards: Visa Electron, Visa Debit, Maestro and Solo. - Paypal. - Bank transfer. - For UK residents, we also accept personal Cheque, Bank draft & Cash deposit. CREDIT CARD, DEBIT CARD: If you wish to pay by credit card or debit card, you can send us your card details by email or fax +44 1225 430271. In order to process your payment by credit card, we need the following information: - Name as stated on the credit card - Credit card number - Expiry date - Verification number -For most cards the verification number is a 3 digit number found on the back of the card on the signature panel (normally the last 3 digits). PAYPAL If you wish to pay by PayPal, please ask us to send you a payment request or simply go to www.paypal.com to make payment. Harrington Group PayPal ID is info@GroupHarrington.com. BANK TRANSFER FOR USD Bank name: EXIMBANK TAN DINH Address: 48-50 Nguyen Huu Cau, Dist. 1, HCMC, Vietnam Account name: Nathan John Redfearn Arne - Not a hint of yellow. These are a quality 304 stainless alloy, that would be mistaken for flawless show chrome in any lighting conditions. What remains to be seen is the difficulty of maintaining the high luster finish.

The only pic I have seen of one installed is this one below of the front of zedhead260Z's car on Zclub.net. Here are some pics taken by nomad1968 on zcar.com of his and a few of the rubber & mounting from the seller. Yeah, Ive got to get into gear, so many nice new shiny parts to put on my Z.

Here is a follow up on these stainless bumpers. After hearing what others had to say about theirs (all good) and seeing the pics, and corresponding with the seller, I did the math. I determined it was much cheaper and effort free on my part to go with the stainless, opposed to re-chroming my originals. This way I got the style I wanted; only new horizontal rubber and no upright guards. I didn't ask but I don't see why they couldn't be ordered plain/rubber free also. Now, I can even recoup some cash if I decide to sell my originals. Delivered to my door, no duties, taxes or additional fees of any kind brought the total cost to $1,085.00 US. I recieved them after almost a month long wait, attributed to, according to the seller, a dramatic increase in business. They were packaged very well in bubble wrap and some kind of indestructable nylon material that took some careful removal with scissors. I am very impressed with the quality of these pieces. I have been unable to find a single flaw. They are coated with a two part epoxy on the backside as well. The polishing is done to perfection. Its very difficult to see in a pic. The surfaces are perfectly straight with no wavering whatsoever. They seem to be very strong, and a lot more ridgid than the stock bumpers. Not sure of the weight difference from stock bumpers but it isn't very significant. Don't want to sound like a spokesman for the company, but I feel they are producing a quality product.

It is good to go, as far as keeping with your minimalist theme. If it was my car, I would use whatever extra wire was needed in order to separate the control side of the relay (pin 86) from the battery power (pin 30), using seperate fuses to protect, but it will work as is. A few more details will have to be kept in mind when you actually implement the plan. It would be a good idea to separate the bus bar (fuse feed), so the headlights high beams and low beams and perhaps the fog lights are derived/grouped from a dedicated Maxi Fuse. Look at any fuse box and you will see that the high amperage draw items have a dedicated wire and fusable link/maxi fuse connecting to the bus bar. Just something to keep in mind, instead of having 1-150 amp Maxi Fuse covering everything on 1 bus bar. That is something you can decide on when the components come together in the car. Each end device/accessory and length/gauge of wire used will have to be evaluated in order to assign the proper sized fuse for each. You can never go wrong by using too small of a fuse to start with. Good luck and I hope I was helpful.

Count me in for the set of 3 pieces Jim if you get something going!

These are the ones that were registered, driven by me and memorable, not counting company cars, parts cars/cars not driven or the countless motorcycles. I'm sure I missed several. Licensed since 1965 at the age of 15 for motorcycles and 16 for cars a year later, although in the sticks back then myself and most of my buddies were world class dirt track circle drivers at the age of 14 (in our own minds) racing around a horse track. Fun times. Notice the "big three" dominance? 1955 Ford 1956 DeSoto 1958 Dodge 1952 Ford 1955 Chevy 1964 Impala 1966 Valiant 1972 Camaro 1974 Camaro 1974 Plymouth Suburban 1966 Barracuda 196? Hillman 1968 AMX 1971 Gremlin X 1966 Mercury Parklane 1980 Ford Bronco 1978 Chrysler LeBaron 1979 Chrysler Cordoba 1980 Renault Alliance 1982 Plymouth Horizon 1996 Dodge Ram 4X4 2001 Dodge Ram 4X4 Can't count my '70 Z...haven't driven it yet.

Yes, on your diagram just swap out the Pin 30 connections with the Pin 87 connections by changing the numbers. After making that correction and adding a fused source for the Starter relay, it should be good to go.

Looks like a good plan. The only thing I would recommend is the "in 30 out 87" deal, just so others don't get confused and you stay ISO compliant. Good Work! Edit: I did not look at this latest diagram close enough before saying it was a good plan. I was pressed for time and just assumed that you followed the example in my diagram. You changed it up and compromised the Starter Relay circuit's protection. You have not made the distinction between Maxi fuses and Mini fuses. Take another look at the way I have Pin 86 and also because it is jumped, Pin 30 protected by a Mini Fuse in the PDC. Same as the Ignition Relay. The Starter Relay is only being used as a means to control the Starter Solenoid with a Ground. The Maxi fuse is intended to protect the downstream cable coming from the Battery and the Starter Motor only. The way you have it configured the Starter Relay and associated wire can go up in flames before the Maxi Fuse blows. Take another look at my example diagram. It's a crude drawing, the Mini Fuses aren't labeled, but everythings shown to make the Starter circuit safe and reliable.

Turn yourself in...you stole it!!

Yes, doesn't seem so long ago. Technology is advancing in leaps and bounds. Those machines must be in museums now. This paper has dirt, grease, fungus or mold and rust on it. Just like my old neglected Z had. With todays digital technology, the end result will be much better. I'm just glad saridout has stepped up to the task. I did send him a higher resolution scan. Basically a background clean up, text/graphic enhancement will restore the original content and make it suitable for enlargement. It's not a very good "working" diagram because of the absense of the blower motor, rear heated glass or combination switch detail. More of an "artsy" nostalgic thing. Because of the two pages being glued together, there is duplication of color designation. Enrique, I know you have seen more wiring diagrams than most. Do you know where this one originated from?

Doesn't look too bad for the money. It's done up the way a growing number of people like their 280Zs. Early small bumper on the front, clean bumperless on the back. Nice little DD.

I'm not sure how I could increase the resolution unless I emailed the scans maybe? Better yet PM me a mailing address, then I can send the original to you to work from. It would be nice if someone had a better condition copy to start with but I've never seen this particular one elsewhere. Here are both halves scanned the best I know how. Thank you for offering to do this! Edit: I'm using a Lexmark 1200 that I know nothing about and have never touched the settings. Is there something I can do here to get better resolution on my scans?

I already have one of the huge color one's for a '70 from the seller on Ebay. It is great for quick reference but I find myself looking at the others available from FSMs or other sources also. They are all a little lacking but that's the nature of the beast. The one I want to bring back and enlarge to a black & white piece of "artwork", I found in my '70 Z's glovebox when I bought it. Really ratty and hard to read but I like it. It is from a manual of unknown origin (to me anyhow). Anyone recognize it? It is missing a lot of wiring detail and is actually 2 pages glued together. I just think it would be cool enlarged and framed as a black & white to hang in my garage. Here's a partial scan of it. I posted this before. Here is the legend from the '70 color diagram from Ebay. I still find it hilarious!

Saridout, I don't have a '72 but felt compelled to compliment you and Enrique on your efforts. Sure makes it easier for us old buggers to follow the wire routing. It would be a great idea to enlarge and plastic laminate these. I think I have a copy of the earliest known 240Z wiring diagram that I would love to redo into something ledgible some day.

An increase in sway bar diameter should not cause a clearance problem. Although 1/4" spacers may help, I would take a close look for an underlying cause if its too close. It's not unheard of for distortion and weakening at the mounting points on the front frame rails or displacement of the frame rails even. Also, check the motor mounts for any bending or deterioration.

The first thing you should do, is find out what the rules are. It may be in the rules that you need an alternator interupt circuit, to prevent the possibility of a self energized field winding and possible run on. And if that is a rule, you can bet that you will need a fuel pump shutoff as well. This is easy stuff to do, if needed. The master battery disconnect will no doubt be a requirement and there is no problem fitting the 1AWG cable with terminals that connect to a master shutoff switch. I attached this link showing a shutoff switch that is NHRA approved only as an example. It has the removeable extention rod on it that is used to provide a "push/pull" operation from the outside/rear of the vehicle. I made the same from a heavy duty switch from a tractor supply company for about $20.00; minus the NHRA approval. The cable and terminals, I got from the local welding equipment dealer, sold by the foot. One other thing to consider. A lot of weight can be added by running a heavy cable the extra distance relocating a battery. Especially if another of the requirements is an "Approved" box to house the battery. When you stop and think about it, the benefits are not so great, relocating it. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLA-FR1003-2?part=FLA-FR1003-2&view=64&N=700+-107651

Ok after looking at it closer I found that Pin 30 can be jumped to Pin 86 as long as Pin 86 is fused. It is, in my second attempt. Your choice, to use the Charge LED or just eliminate it. I'm not very good at drawing these but I hope it helps.