geezer

There are some great solutions and work to solve this problem shown in this thread. Here's a link to an earlier thread with some ideas and great pics. Member a7dz (Jim) did a remarkable job as well and has some great pics of his finished results. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/33769-fierwall-rust.html I took some pics of this area as well when I drilled out the spot welds and removed the "rain cover" from the "top inner cowl panel". Most of these I've seen, seem to have been sealed rather haphazardly with a hit & miss method. It almost seems like the original intent was to create a few degrees of fall for the water to run away from the chimney to the drain. Not very well done or effective. I had rust trapped in the seam between the top inner & outer cowl panels all the way to the hood latch support and broke those welds loose and removed the support so I could sandblast and repair the rusted areas. I welded it all together and coated it with a thick layer of DP90 epoxy primer and before the primer was cured, sealed everything with a two part epoxy flowing it over the area trying to create a small amount of fall as well. Because of events of the last few years, I still haven't finished prepping and painting this repair but it is solid and water tight. I decided to weld some nuts on the underside of the chimney cover and bolt it on, for easier access in the future.

I think it is. Decades before Nissan built our steering wheels Henry Ford was trying to develop the technology as well but he was using hemp fibers. Wonder what the weight factor is. I could use a rust free Z body!:classic:

Chris, what is the publication date of your copy? All these years later it does seem to be somewhat counter productive, Pub.No.C-235 being dated March of 1974, covering the years 1969- 1973.....Pub.No.C-236, covering the years 1969-1972. One would think, going by the publishing number, C-236 would be the later of the two, but more than likely, Pub.No.C-235 was a multi-year work in progress? It could be fun comparing the two copies.:classic:

I have a xeroxed copy of the Nissan Fairlady-Z Parts Catalog Model S30 PS30 1970. It is dated 1971, 3. It has a few noticeable differences, when compared to Kat's original copy (dated later). We touched on the subject a while back. Mine was a working copy that came from a closed Nissan dealership in Quebec with the pages enveloped in plastic sleeves. The art work in these publications is incredible. Well worth adding to a collection.

Remove a sparkplug and feed in a short length of nylon rope. Torque to spec after the rotating assembly cannot turn.

Greg, I believe you could very well be correct. It certainly is not beyond the realm of possibility. During my career with another automobile manufacturer, I witnessed dozens of instances where stock destined for the parts counters were drawn from the warehouses, in order to allow production to continue uninterupted. If there was no alternate supplier, this was a last resort. Sometimes the parts had to be removed from packaging not normally used during the assembly process, making it obvious or there was some other nuance that pointed it out.

There were replacement air cleaner housings sold over the counter at the parts department that were blue. So they would still be correct, I think.

I can appreciate the amount of effort that you have put into the creation of this chart but as Alan has pointed out, in order to be complete, and to cover all model designates another approach would need to be taken. A true timeline illustrating the S30 would also be more accurate using the VIN or month of build as a time marker. It would seem that targeting only the engines would make for a simplified chart but even so the components to build the engines are selected for various reasons, such as mandates dictated to conform to emission standards of the particular market designation or any number of other reasons specified by the particular market. Having said that, I do like the idea of laying it out in this manner but only if labeled with the corect market designations that are applicable. In no way am I trying to discourage you from going ahead, just pointing out the bigger picture that will present problems and poke holes in the method you are using. Good luck!

If only I had the time. A wall poster showing the entire S30 family tree would be a wonderful thing. Especially if it was done in a manner that would explain the reasons for and describe each variant in detail. It would likely require a fair amount of wall space but would be an effective way to put it all in perspective. It would be a great way to add to the ambiance of the man cave as well.:classic:

I don't believe the average consumer or Z enthusiast in the US ever had much of a need or desire to know what the individual market designations were/are. It is very important in the manufacturing process to ensure the correct parts are being installed. Each model designation is defined by design as well as mandated vehicle conformance to individual markets. The guy behind the parts counter would certainly be aware of the different "sub models", but the customer, not so much. This information is interesting and if you look at this page taken from Nissan's "Outline Specifications", you can see how helpful this info would be for someone who is trying to make sense of their transition year Z. I believe it would take a lifetime and then some to learn all the secrets and intricacies of the S30.

I am pointing out that there are several products available for the purpose of lubricating and fitting rubber. That particular one I linked to is offering free samples. I wasn't recommending you should buy a gallon. Its been several years since I've used Isopar and referred to it as an example of one I've used and how well it performed. Don't know if you can still get it or if it is another product deemed to be too hazardous for anything but industrial use. We actually used steam boxes (hot water heat), but carefully using a heat gun, gradually heating the rubber will make it very flexable, easily manipulated and being so dense, rubber holds the heat longer than you would think giving you time to work with it before it cools.

Don't underestimate the flexability afforded with pre-heated rubber and the lubrication properties of products designed for fitting rubber without damaging paint. For several years I used a product called "Isopar" that worked great, that was from the Mopar Parts Dept. There are several others available. Get a free sample from the link below of a similar product. McLube : Rubber Assembly Lubricants

Yeah, ask them if they want to go for a spin! :classic:Alright, good stuff, glad to see it finished. Looks great! You can drill more holes through the heads to create more stop positions. I find it easy to just drop the entire rear assembly from the car, leaving the front intact with wheels/tires. Then 2 guys can get the rear of the car up without a hoist. Once the rear is mounted on the rotisserie, the front is even easier but I guess thats only good if your intentions are to immediately completely tear it down.

Up to 06/71, end of the '71 model year part number 55450-E4101 From 07/71 to 07/73 the '72 model year part number 55450-E8300 My scanner is down, Dan is correct, there are 8 different modified parts shown in order to move the diff rearward 1 1/4". The illustration doesn't show the mustache bar being flipped/reversed though it is shaped differently. The pic below is an R200 pulled from my '70z barn find. That mustache bar is reversed.

I bought one from zeddfindings. It was very pricey and was a total disappointment. It is flat the total length of the piece with no compound bow like the original. It needs to be worked on an english wheel but difficult to do now after being semi formed. The cutout for the exhaust is nothing like my '70Z. I figure it is a total loss and I'll never buy anything from them again. I haven't seen one from MSA but remember hearing of similar problems with the fitting. In my opinion you are better off forming one yourself or as Steve has suggested, repair your existing one and his best suggestion, get a good one cut from another Z if you can. Having said that, it sounds like you are resigned to having someone else do the work. In that case, the guy you choose to do the work, who has seen what needs to be done can surely answer your question better than us. Got any pics?

:classic:Thank you Takeuchi-san, those are very nice views of the 100L fuel tank. Even though I have never seen one in person, it certainly would be instantly recognizable if I did. Great spring info and pics Kats. I can't take my copy of the parts catalog shopping with me, even if there was a place to use it while shopping. It weighs over 30 lbs., is full size, appears to be a Xerox copy from the '70s with each page printed "one side", with a black felt paper backer on each page, enveloped in hard, transparent plastic 3-ring protectors, in hard cover binders. It has a complete index and option parts lists as well, with hand written translations. There is a bilingual mix of descriptions (Japanese & English). The publication number is not shown. I got it from a Nissan dealer that closed in the province of Quebec. It is one of my favorite Z catalogs to thumb through. Sorry for the terrible pics. Chris, great questions! I have more questions than answers! It is such an interesting model capable of spawning our curiosity, at times far beyond this threads intent. Most times I have to restrain myself from branching too far off from the topic.

Couple of things to know. You will need the center point of the rotation to be at least 42" high with the the spreader bar that connects each end having 1" of clearance from the floor, if you are using a spreader bar. Otherwise you will not be able to rotate 360 degrees. I find that if you exercise the amount of overkill that I did building the end brackets and fastening them securely, you don't even need a spreader bar but I had left mine on just to be safe with the amount of structural strength I had removed from the shell while replacing the floors, rocker, etc. I wasn't sure how much twist or flex would occur. The pic of the rear end bracket was taken before welding on the through floor pieces (overkill). I got lucky and got an old freebee cart that had good wheels on it and just used that for a base, then cut it in half to create each end. When I had built mine, I bought 3 cheap engine stands. The metal from the 3rd gave me the material needed to raise each end and build the tie bar. They were not the angled head variety which simplified things as well. Total cost was less than $175. and a solid two days before my son and I lifted the shell up by hand with the brackets bolted to the shell and slipped the brackets into the receivers. I hope you are getting enough penetration with that flux core wire welder. Just sharing how I did it, I'm aware there is more than one way to skin a cat, so carry on and good luck!

The PZR build was complete by the time your catalog was printed and as Alan has pointed out an alternate tank was listed in the Sports Option Catalog. The tank shown in the "Yellow Book", may be part number 17350-E7201. I'm sure Alan will let us know. Only a few PB/PZR parts were listed in the Fairlady catalogs. More than likely because the build was so very limited and deemed by those who made the decisions not necessary to include, even before the drawings came off the sketch pads. It must have taken considerable time to draw those beautiful illustrations that they seem to have been teasing us with.

Hi Kats- The copy I have is dated March 71 and doesn't include many PZR parts but the parts that are shown are labeled as model designation PB. Compare the pages below to the pages Chris posted covering the 100L fuel tank. Note the model designated, then look at page 37-7 and you will see part number 17350-E7201 shown to be optional but definitely listed as being available at the time of the build and only used for model PB. PB=PZR Also note that a reservoir tank doesn't serve the same purpose as an expansion tank and Nissan labeled them as such.

Just a final thought about the reservoir tank. During the same time period of this "special build", it doesn't appear that the reservoir tanks were simply re-purposed from other models by Nissan. If they were, wouldn't it seem likely that the HLS30 US version would have been used, since it was already designed to fit inside the right quarter location? I think in later years some improvising may have been done by the owners to mimic what wasn't ordered as "optional" equipment from the get-go, whether ordered from the Sports Option Catalog or substituted tanks that were meant for other models.. That would explain the two different part numbers in the publications at the time.

I noticed, the "17350-E7201.... TANK-reservoir" is listed as being optional for the "PB" model in the 1970 S30 - PS30 parts catalog although it is not shown in the illustration nor is it listed in the "OPTION PARTS" appendage. *Just a note for those who are not confused enough already. "PB" is the model designation used in the 1970 parts catalog. "PZR" can be considered to be synonymous. Correct me if I'm wrong because I don't know what the reason was for the model designation/acronym change. EDIT: This part can be seen illustrated in the HS30 Sports Option Catalog dated Dec/'73. on page 6.

:classic:Excellent material Kats! I look forward to the translated book if you ever manage to fit that task into your busy schedule. I am extremely grateful for having this site and such knowledgeable members willing to share and offer their expert tutelage. Thanks Alan, that sounds like the only plausible explanation. I had briefly thought of that being the reason for having two sets of interchangeable part numbers. The copy of the parts catalog I have is dated March of '71 and doesn't have a chassis number "from" or date associated with the part numbers for that model. The only other things I could think of were, the antenna hole, which has no business being there and the gas filler but it is always on the RH side. I can not begin to realize the amount of research, parts hunting and fabrication you are doing for your project. My hat is off to you sir!

I was too late to edit my last post. I had another look at the parts catalog and almost answered my own question. Two different part numbers are given and shown to be interchangeable for the rear fenders, both LH & RH sides. I was mistaken with the doors and front fenders though. It shows the PB model as having its own dedicated part numbers for these pieces. There must a simple reason for the two different part numbers for the rear fenders that escapes me.

A very fitting analogy. (no pun intended) Thoughts about thinner sheet metal stampings and "roadgoing PZRs"? A question came to me from looking through the parts catalog. It seems, several choices could be made either at the point of sale when the purchase/build order was filled in or sometime after the fact. Were there choices that could be made for the PZR model, including interchangeability of doors and rear fenders at the time of purchase? Nissan had to produce a minimum number of PZR model cars to qualify to go racing under the homologation regulations but did that prevent them from giving a "roadgoing PZR" customer a choice, when it came to the thickness of the sheet metal panels, etc? I would have liked to have been a fly on the wall at the time or ask an original "roadgoing PZR" owner about their purchase experience. I could envision a salesman steering a customer away from the thinner skinned panels for practicality but I think more than likely, to meet the homologation rules, the cars were likely sold with the lightweight parts installed and the heavier pieces were just listed in the catalog as being interchangeable for future fitment information and sales availability.