geezer

Sure, you could make use of the battery connection at the starter or depending what other circuits you are upgrading, you may find it beneficial to buy a seperate power distribution center to house and weatherproof the fuses and relays. I have a Spal box for this purpose. I'll see if I can get a pic of it and post it here. Edit: This built in Japan, Spal PDC is only about 3"X3", houses 5 relays, four fuses, is water proof and has leads with weatherpac connectors. This can be used for forward lighting, fog lights, rad fans, etc. There are several companies producing several versions of these. Can't remember what I paid for this one but it wasn't much.

Unless you are able to locate two standard sized from Nissan wouldn't you have the problem of unbalancing your rotating assembly as well as other mismatch issues, if you were to use only two aftermarket pistons? I think I would be tempted to find a couple of good condition used pistons instead or go with a whole set of aftermarket.

You have to understand that the original wiring that is provided on your car for the purpose of connecting the fog lights is totally inadequate. There is too much resistance in the circuit which translates into heat, which in turn is a dangerous thing. The only proper solution is to rewire them so there is a direct run from the battery to pin 30 of a standard ISO maxi relay (fused of course). Pins 85 & 86 are used to control the relay allowing the high amperage needed by the fog lights to exit pin 87 of the relay. What was provided 40 years ago to run fog lights just doesn't cut it today. I like your fog lights and switch and they should be easy to connect using either a single or two relays, which will solve your problem.

You should use relays to control the fog lights. This way you are drawing the high amperage directly from a battery source and using only .25 amps to switch the power. Edit: This is just an example borrowed from the net. It shows what you ultimately want to achieve, which is drawing the high amperage directly from a fused battery feed and using a relay to switch the power. It is just a matter of tapping into your existing system. I prefer to use a relay for each foglight.

On my next trip over the border the intake will be going out by Greyhound Express.

I'll have to check the year but I think this is from a 1982 zx. I bought the engine and trans. and plan to carburate it so this is available for the cost of shipping. I'll gather up everything that I'm not using from that engine and include it if wanted.

I have bought from New Datsun Parts and recieved exactly what I ordered without any problems. Sure, the parts are pricey but there are no surprises and you know the cost up front. The parts I bought were difficult to find elsewhere, so I bit the bullet.

Yep, put those beauties in a glass display case!!

They become extremely flexible when heated. I used a heat gun on the low setting, heating evenly, being careful not to get it too hot.

Have you seen this thread? Maybe compare notes with kurtwwalters who has/had HLS30-07969, which is an automatic. Here's the thread link. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29847&highlight=early+automatic Here's another Series 1 local to me that was driven into the garage more than 17 years ago. It is totally intact. Yep, they are tucked away in great numbers.

Hey guys, in addition to posting your series 1 cars here, it would be nice to have the info included in MikeW's list also for easy reference, if you haven't already done so. It's great for seeing at a glance what cars the guys who frequent this site have, along with a short vague description. It's not restricted to series 1 cars either. http://www.editgrid.com/user/mlwilliams/Z_Car_Registry Just a thought. PS - Steve, I keep my ear to the ground when it comes to hard to find Series 1 parts, as do many of us. I think it gives us a rough idea of the rate of Series 1 car loss due to parting out but I agree that what we hear of doesn't scratch the surface.

That's a tough question to answer correctly I think. We can get a fair idea of how many are being parted out by tracking sales on Ebay or other venues, but "still on the road" is harder to gauge. Could be more in storage, being restored, etc, than on the road I think. This subject was last covered a little over a year ago. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30076

I haven't come across that part number Dan. There is also a German produced one made by Meyle offered on the carpartsdiscount site for $15. that I noticed too. Quite a price difference between manufacturers. The 11mm ball joint Keith pointed out from Autozone shares the same part number as the ones I bought, but at an even better price - $31.99. The USA manufacturer is Duralast. That is the best deal yet that I've seen for the 11mm early version. Until recently I didn't realize they were still available anywhere. I first came across the carpartsdiscount part #MNFA2026 about a month ago. They had 20 available. I told a few people about them that I thought might have an interest and today noticed they are down to 10 available. I find it amazing that these parts are still available to replace 40 year old parts, especially since they were only originally fitted to cars up to HLS30-07985. Probably, only because beefier replacements are available.

These ball joints are the only items I have bought from them so far. They shipped quickly with tracking and accepted PayPal for payment. You know as well as I, how much more convenient that is for us outside of the US. I have test fit these and am very happy with them. I will be able to use the "quik Steering" knuckles I have now because they are the early version. Otherwise only cars up to serial number HLS30-07985 came with the early ball joints. Ball joints and steering knuckles have to be matched up as sets, early or late. The same vendor has the later version available as well. They seem to be high quality parts and are labeled "made in USA" but I didn't get the name of the manufacturer.

I'm bringing up this 6 year old thread just to update the availability of the early ball joints. Not too many of us interested in this but for those who are or those who have the early version "quik steering" knuckles and need the early ball joints to mate up properly, here it is. http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/parts/70/nissan/240z/ball_joints/ball_joint_lower.html?3593=37536 They seem to be of good quality, come with the rubber boot, spring clamp, castelated nut & cotter pin, as well as the zerk fitting. Just a note: the rubber boot is different than the later replacements.

I think it would be a massive undertaking to compile this information into a single book in a manner that would relay useful information as effectively as is done online today. I would certainly be interested in looking through such a book and perhaps even buying a copy, but I'm one of those guys that still appreciates the benefits of hard copy over computer stored files for the convenience of quick reference, or just for an enjoyable read. The problem I see with a subject such as "tips, tricks and modifications is the relatively short amount of time before the book would be considered "dated" and not something someone who is interested in "getting it done", would buy. Tips, tricks and modifications is an evolving subject and for the best up to date information, people will turn to the internet. It would be a noble project putting this book together, but in my opinion, not profitable enough to publish.

Ah ha! I already know you need keys grooved the other way, unless you are planning to convert also. Back to the stainless end caps; I'm sure they are not too difficult to find and could be a standardized part used for many models and probably other manufacturers as well. A simple die made by drilling a nylon block and a piece of PVC could be fabbed to crimp them easy enough. If replacements can be found and I can pry your source for the pins from you, I would attempt it. Original owners should be able to tell us if the "key removal in any position" is something that developed over time, confirming worn keys, pins, a combination of both, or perhaps a design flaw?

I had a door lock cylinder that had been damaged by a PO hitting the stainless end cap with a disc grinder. So I figured there would be nothing to lose if I completely dissected it to see "whats what". They are as simple as it gets. Once the endcap is removed there is easy access for removal of the cylinder, then, it is easy to simply lift out and replace the pins (wafers) with the correct ones to match the key. Of course the endcaps would have to be replaced and crimped on with the proper tool. I say it is simple, BUT only if you can source the replacement pins (wafers) and new stainless end caps which would be difficult at best to reuse, as well as having a crimping tool to fasten the new stainless end cap. I still believe it is a job for a professional locksmith.

If you wouldn't mind sharing, scan and add the window sticker to this thread. It is interesting to compare them. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33381&highlight=window+sticker

They are definitely NOS. Since the keys come already cut to fit the gas door lock cylinder they wouldn't break up the package to sell the keys separately. I'm sure that my plan of reworking all the other cylinders will be costly, but that will give me the convenience of having one key that fits everything and a spare key to boot. I haven't discussed it with a locksmith yet. I don't think it is something I want to try doing myself. Better to use the services of a professional I think.

Yep, that's what I ordered and the keys came with it.

I have decided to throw originality out the window and convert to a "one key fits all" for my '70. I ordered a keyed gas door lock from MSA and this is what showed up, so I have decided to have all the remaining cylinders reworked to fit these keys.

That mount was first used for the 1972 model.

Glad to have helped Richard. This is one of those instances where it was indeed worthwhile storing an old part that was not of any use to me, but someone else was able to make use of it. I learned that the original OEM 260Z hatch rubber has the same profile as your 240Z. The only difference is the notch cutouts on each side for the brackets of the lift cylinders on the 260Z. Luckily, you didn't need that section.

Hi Sarah - Your guess is correct. Once the sacrificial coating has been compromised the base metal will suffer the effects of corrosion. I really don't have any first hand experience on the durability of these home plating kits and have never heard of a salt spray test being conducted on the parts coated. I'm sure the results won't be as good as an industrial plater. What I am primarily after is the appearance factor. If I can turn back almost 40 years of corrosion on these parts, great but I don't expect these coatings to last another 40 years. There have been a few good threads/posts covering the various industrial coatings. I found this one in a search that caught my interest. Carl Beck has touched on this subject more than once IIRC. We are discussing the kits available from Eastwood & Caswell, which have a way to go I think before coming up with a product to compare with what is available in industry. But, for 40 year old hardware on my Z it may be what I need. These kits are available in clear zinc, yellow zinc, black oxide, olive drab and many other variations today I believe. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=214428&highlight=zinc+coating#post214428