geezer

The heated glass switch wires are red/black & blue. Are you asking about the blower motor? It has a red 12V & black coming from the blower switch and is also grounded. PM me an email address and I will try to send you a wire diagram. No, with the key in the off position you should not have power going to the heated back window switch or the grid. I don't know from personal early car experience but have heard that the wire colors actually in the cars differs on occasion.

Hi Mike - I can put you in touch with someone who is planning to part out his 1970 Fairlady Z in the near future. If you are interested send me a PM. It should prove to be an interesting project and I will look forward to hearing more about it. I have a few Fairlady Z parts but never considered selling any. I have a NOS FairladyZ grill you can see a pic of on pg 10 of my gallery pics. It is PN 62300-N3000 and has different mounting points than the 1970 version which is PN 62300-E4101. Depending on how correct you are planning to be with your build will determine if you would want to adapt the later version or not.

I asked the seller about the interior color. Not quite the conclusive answer I was hoping for but his response leans me in the direction of this car originally having a blue interior. Question: Looking at the pictures it looks like the tunnel vinyl has been dyed black at some point in the past and is worn off by the gas pedal. Did this car originally have a blue interior? Answer: The car was factory blue, it was painted white in 1982. Tunnel vinyl may have been dyed black by my brother before I got it in 1976 Just curious Bonzi Lon; what was it that made you ask, "Could this have been a blue/blue car?" I didn't ask for more pictures, but would recommend getting a much better look if anyone is interested. It just kind of spooks me when I get a vague response from a seller.

In this pic you can see where it appears that black dye has been worn away to reveal a blue interior?

That explains why I couldn't find it in "Completed Auctions" when I did an advanced search. I took "already done" as meaning the auction ended. Thanks for clearing that up Mike. I think this car will prove to be a good example of missing original parts bringing the price down substantially.

Next time try this: Left click with your mouse on the address bar of the page you wish to link. Now the address bar is highlighted. Now right click while holding the mouse on the address bar. From the menu choose "copy" and then when you want the link to appear in a post, right click and from the menu choose "paste". Thats it. Someone must have thought #491 was a good deal? If you saved it in your "My Ebay" you can still link it to this thread.

Welcome Rick and greetings to Kathy as well. I am aware this is your first post on this site and you are unfamiliar with the layout but you will learn your way around in no time. I am really interested to hear anything you would care to share with us. I know you have a few stories to tell that I, or any of us wouldn't want to miss hearing. I would suggest introducing yourself as a new member in your own thread. I'm pleased you are here to join in with us and am looking forward to some great discussions. Edit: Rick, it occurred to me you might not know how to start your thread. Just look at the top of the page for "FORUMS" and from the drop down menu select "INTRODUCE YOURSELF".

Yes, Stephen, you and I are old enough that we both drove a 1970 240Z in 1970 and speaking for myself, I can tell you I was in love with the 240Z and was also totally oblivious to what was available in other markets around the world. I was always a "car guy" and fairly knowledgeable but mostly about cars that were on our streets, in our showrooms here or perhaps snipets from magazines. I was totally immersed in "American Iron". It has only been a few years now that I have learned about and gained any knowledge of the worldwide perspective of the S30. It is totally up to each individual what you take an interest in and want to learn more about. I am in agreement with you doradox (Steve) that in hindsight looking at what was available elsewhere in limited numbers would have only been a pipedream and given the choice, would also opt for the L24 over the L20A. But some of us still say in reference to some of these parts..."damn, how come we never got that"?! Other markets were what they were and just interesting to me as an aspect of the marque I wish to learn all I can about. No argument from me. It's just a hobby, but I understand the importance of getting it right in print for future hobbyists. Edit: Just want to add that this question is one which should not even be considered. "what version Z was being held up as the "standard" from which all others were judged". Each model has their own identity and should be viewed for what they are...in my opinion. Comparisons are fair, but being "judged"?

You should put this in the classified ads on this site under "Wanted Cars & Parts". It will get far more exposure than this thread, which not as many people will read. Most of us do read the classified ads when they first appear right on the Front Page. If I didn't have what your looking for when you made your first post on this thread if I happened to read it, I still won't have it when you bump this thread up to the top. Just a suggestion.

I don't want to divert this thread any more than needed and listing all the standard equipment or available optional equipment in other markets would certainly do that. I just had this argument recently, when I was told..."but you could order that from the Competition catalog if you wanted it". Yes, but only after paying for a lesser part to begin with when originally purchasing the car and having the added expense of swapping out components. It is painfully obvious that we in the North American market didn't get what other markets did, when you leaf through the S30-PS30 parts catalog. Not everything is shown there either but enough to enlighten us somewhat. This did not make anyone love their Zs any less. "You don't miss what you never had" is a fitting statement. Nissan was progressively developing new components and testing via their own engineers, racing programs or customer response. I think it just was not feasible or possible to supply the immense North American appetite that surely would have been wetted by offering these parts as standard or optional equipment, not to mention complicating the logistics that were already stretched beyond Nissan's expectations. It is always a racing program or a limited market that is primarily used for evaluating parts. Then it is up to the bean counters to steer the board of directors toward profitability and that can wipe out years of research & development in an instant.

Nice find! I think most guys would have just ignored it, but I'm glad you didn't. Alan, your translation is most helpful and I believe you are correct that this form was intended for internal use only and if it was spotted, it would have been removed before hitting the shipping lanes. We used similar forms here that we called travel cards. There were different ones. You have seen the pictures of the S30s going down the line with these cards set on the dash. Build sheets on the other hand, would have typically been on the hood so they could be easily read when approaching a workers station. These "travel cards" went along for the ride starting after Paint where all panels were inspected for any paint or metal damage. The cards we used actually had outline drawings of both sides, view from the top & rear view of the car on the card making it easy to pinpoint/record the area damaged or flawed. Each division had their own form of travel card. Trim, Chassis & Final as well had similar cards to suit their purpose. The duplicate copies had several uses. They all stayed with the vehicle until the build was complete. The entire build history was recorded this way. Every mishap, delay or incident worth mention was on record. One copy from each division was collected at the end of the line, stacked, bundled and stored in large bins in a warehouse as a permanent record. There were thousands per day and they accumulated quickly. Another copy was sent to each Division Head for review. Reoccurring problems were found, tracked and resolutions found with the feedback provided from these cards. Another copy was used for directing the car to the appropriate repair station and then after being repaired a buy off from the inspectors upon completion would send the car back on route. 30 plus years down the road it would be interesting to read from that stack of build history or even the events an individual car experienced.

Nice pics as usual Brandon. I think your dad is seriously afflicted with the Z-disease. There is no known cure. All we can do is keep his cars under observation! Congrats Guy!

The part numbers for the comp knuckles are 40052-E4202 & 40053-E4202. Don't know about availability. Never heard of the smaller ball joint shafts breaking. I noticed that the microfiche has the set substitution listed: Knuckle Arm 40052/3-E4101 Ball Joint 78500 changed to Knuckle Arm 40052/3-E4102 Ball Joint 40160-A8600 These are all 115mm, there is no mention of 105mm. The 105mm are only listed as over the counter parts with the same numbers listed in the comp catalog. As conedodger mentioned the 105mm comp knuckles will fit the 260Z, as well as the entire S30 lineup, unless you still have the pre 07/70 knuckle/balljoint set, in which case you will need to replace as a matched set.

The steering knuckles on the early cars is perhaps a subject best left for another thread but since they have been mentioned, maybe someone knows or has an early car that still has the original knuckles fitted, can clear this up for me. The US/Canada 240Z parts catalog has both 105mm and 115mm knuckles listed up to 06/70. Did any of the cars actually come equipt with the 105mm knuckles or is this a misconception? I know the ball joints were strengthened 07/70 starting with HLS30-07985 and the steering knuckles had to be changed at the same time in order to mate up but there is no documentation anywhere that I can find that mentions a change being made from 115mm to 105mm steering knuckles before or after 06/70. It appears to me the 105mm version was only an over the counter part. From 07/70 to 07/73 both 115mm & 105mm versions are still listed in the forementioned catalog. I have been studying the examples I have on hand and haven't figured out yet where the measurements of 105mm & 115mm come from either. I measure 110mm & 100mm center to center. Sorry for the sidetrack, just something I've been wondering about.

18.0:1 is more "highway friendly" than 17.8:1 but not by a large margin. The 206 (US) version of the Haynes manual shows the same steering ratio as Alan has found in the FSM for the HLS30-U 240Z. It also shows the 260Z with a ratio of 18.0:1. That is only a 0.2:1 difference between the two. The turning circle data is the same for both at 31.4ft (9.6m), 2.7 turns lock to lock. I am left wondering, where did you find the 240Z steering ratio shown as 15.8.1?

I haven't met anyone yet who claims to know everything about Zs. Most of us are learning from each other as we gain our individual experiences or knowledge. I for one learned from the posts you made in this thread. For instance I didn't know: 1. The housing material changed from cast aluminum to cast iron. 2. The pinion shaft support changed from a [ball] bearing and bushing to two [ball] bearings. 3. The outside diameter of the rack support area increased, thus requiring different bushings on the front crossmember. 4. The oil filler maintenance ports were eliminated. 5. The steering ratio changed from 15.8 to 18.0. 6. The rubber rack boots mounting was changed from a rubber band to a screw clamp. Just my thoughts on these 6 points...They are what I would consider improvements to the original design from a longevity/durability standpoint for the most part and just a natural progression in Nissan's efforts to improve the vehicle, using the feedback derived from testing and customer response. Also, every opportunity to reduce cost would have been taken advantage of. Point #4 would be an example of that. Point #5 was probably a result of customer feedback and the voice of the "weaker sex" being heard perhaps. Now, to answer your question, I would say the later version is the better rack in the typical consumers view unless you take into consideration the slight performance gains of a faster steering ratio and a small weight savings. Would I swap out my original 240Z rack? Nope. Just to let you know, I did look through the printed material I have, trying to find some answers for you that you did not already know and came up empty, so I didn't post. Please, don't take not getting a satifactory answer or no answer at all the wrong way. We all help when we can, if we can.

I think it could be really hard to nail down the exact original color as they seem to darken to an orange over time. Mine are in great condition, but the pic failed to come out as orange as they really are. Member rhochisociety (Jim) hasn't posted since May 08, but he was restoring these and seemed to believe he had the correct color. Maybe try sending him a PM? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=239642&postcount=26 Edit: I notice in his post Jim mentions the rubber strap being used for the 260Z & 280Z. Are these the correct collaspsable wheel stops for my 10/70?

Not much of a concern of warping occurring. Any proficient welder can avoid that and besides these are not highly visable finish panels. I would be more concerned of the hood hinges not being attached securely enough by only riveting a patch.

I bet if you put a "wanted" ad in the classifieds, it wouldn't take long before someone offers some good replacement pieces for sale that can be welded on. Or, just cut out the rust and make up some patch panels and have them welded in. Riveted metal will only hide the deteriated metal and will not add as much strength or last as long as welding it.

Looks great! That color really does compliment the red interior.

That's gonna need new floors I bet. Both models were done by the same person? Edit: No, I guess not. I got thrown off by the Ebay seller's "other items" and made a bad connection with the "career in tooth technology" of the other artist. Pretty cool!

According to Nissan, the first HLS30 fitted with the horizontal wire grid was HLS30-062001. That's quite a way into the '72 model run that is shown as starting with HLS30-46001. I found it difficult to find an excellent condition vertical grid glass, but that had more to do with my location I think and not being able to inspect them in person before buying and having them shipped. Good luck with it Logan1, looks to be a great project!

:classic: You can still get one of these...I can't, my Doin' it in a Datsun days are done!:disappoin unless that just means driving. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=147137&highlight=datsun+frames

Scroll to the bottom of this page to the similar threads links. Look at the one titled "Float Height Adjustment". It should at least help you get back to square one. Most knowledgable people would caution you from changing the float adjustment as the problems usually lie elsewhere. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30563