geezer

I was hoping to hear your take on these bumpers Will, knowing you were persuing a similar product. I didn't realize it was the same outfit but there aren't that many players. In the Ebay ad it says, "trade inquires welcome". That must be how they are coming up with ideas for a feasible product line, contracting the work out to Asia, then marketing the product themselves online. I believe they are shipped directly to the customers from the manufacturer.

It sounds like a lot, until you start adding up what it will cost to recondition my bumpers. I have no dings, bends, or bad pitting, so the prep work wouldn't be overly difficult. The overrider holes would need to be filled and leveled. The last time I inquired, I was quoted a price of $450. CND per bumper and that was with me welding the holes up. On top of that the shipping is not much more from Great Britain than a two way trip to & from the plater that is less than a 4 hour drive from me. Also, my mediocre rubber strips would stand out like a sore thumb on newly chromed bumpers, so I would replace them at an additional cost. Factor in what I can recoupe by selling my Series 1 bumpers and the price seems a little more palatable.

Stainless steel bumpers for 240Zs? Good idea or not, I don't know but have considered this option for quite some time. A re-chrome on my bumpers would be expensive also and I still have a bad taste in my mouth from the last batch I had done. (Poor prepwork, missing parts, etc.), but thats another story. Also I like the look without the overriders and this would eliminate the need to fill the holes before a re-chrome. There have been a few suppliers with stainless offerings and they look good. The sellers have respectable feedback, but this most recent seller, seems to be new as an S30 supplier. Just looking for opinions of this product, as my finger has been hovering over the "Buy it Now" button. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=350215009215

Great tips! The Sharpie pen leaves a nice crisp clean line. Looks great!

Just a shot in the dark, but they resemble a left & right side drawer slides...the part that would mount on the drawer and ride in the grooves of the roller wheels. Would have to be a huge drawer though.

You can use an impact wrench to remove the nut, but using a method as I suggested is more beneficial for reassembly, when trying to achieve the proper torque value, which is 137-159 ft.lbs.

The first place to inquire should be your local Nissan dealers parts counter. I looked up the part numbers on the parts microfiche I have that is dated Dec '84. I don't know if there was a supercession since, but these numbers will allow them to find out the availability status. First there is - PIN ASSY - 41140-P6525 Then there is the next two part numbers which when combined become the assembly represented by the first part number. PIN-SUB -41140-P6500 BUSH-RETAINER-41135-P6500

You need to devise a method of preventing the flange from turning. A length of angle iron drilled and bolted to the flange will work well along with a long breaker bar and a 27mm socket. Good luck.

Am I missing something here? Looking at these pictures, starting with the first one, I see the rail distorting out of shape by just sitting on a jackstand. I really would like to see some pics with the angle iron removed. It's bolted on and fastened to the inner fender with aluminum rivets and has to come off anyhow. I don't think there is enough good original metal left intact to properly piece back together. Why not do it right and replace the rail, whether using the one available from Zedfindings or using square tubing? At least you could be assured of gaining the nessesary structural strength that would be a lasting repair. Any car I've seen with this much rust damage in this area, had much more unseen rust deterioration just below the surface throughout the entire vehicle. Couple that fact with the doctored repair work you have uncovered, its not a stretch to think more surprises are in store. This is not a pessimist attitude, but rather a realistic viewpoint.

I know the truth is sometimes hard to swallow, but I would not try to repair that rail. The other side is probably not in much better condition. I think you are looking at the tip of the iceberg here. At the very least a new set of front rails are needed and I suspect that will snowball into much more. You will have to evaluate for yourself, or if you feel you don't know what to look for, get someone experience to give it a thorough inspection. This is not to say it can't be saved. You will have to do the math and make the ultimate decision. My guess is you will be money ahead finding a solid replacement shell, not to mention the time saved. Just trying to give you an honest opinion. Is this type of work second nature to you? Are you are equipt to do it yourself? I suspect not or you wouldn't be asking for advise here. Best to cut your losses.

2 1/2" x 1 1/2" That is the exact size of 1 individual diamond. They are seperated by a 1/16" border.

Thanks John. Your blast cabinet has been used quite a bit over the last few years. How do I know that? I look in at your gallery every so often. If the metal mesh you are using has held up this long, it may be the answer. I'm pretty sure that nylon, steel, or stainless steel mesh would all serve to protect the glass. I used steel mesh to protect the glass on my lights, but at the time never thought of using it for the window, because I was using the plastic overlays that came with the cabinet. Now that I realize how often the overlays have to be replaced and at what cost, along with the resurrection of this thread, I have become interested in alternatives. Thanks for the deeblast link...nice equipment, but out of my league for my limited usage. I will keep them in mind for a possible source of the steel mesh....just in case my man in Savannah falls flat.

The water filter is complete. Next, I have to devise a method of getting my pressure blaster hose & nozzle routed inside the cabinet so it is easily removable. Will be nice for those heavy cleaning jobs. I sealed all seams while assembling, added better lighting (work lights have 150W bulbs for now...seems to be enough light), mounted a small squirrel cage blower to bring in additional fresh air and put it on wheels, so it's one complete portable unit. The small vacuum is from the '50s and still works great. The vacuum & water filter can be removed from the cabinet in seconds and used for cleaning up drywall dust also.

Very nice! Two guys can get the car mounted on it easy enough, as long as most of the heavy suspension/steering pieces and most everything else have been removed.

This is the 5 gal. water filter for collecting dust that I built for less than $10.00. I used a kitchen strainer from the dollar store to break up the large air bubbles and also cut down on the turbulence. This should in theory also prevent any sludge from being drawn into the shop vac. Just need to mount the snorkle in the cabinet, fill it halfway with water and connect the shop vac to it. The slotted side of the snorkle will face down, allowing the heavier media to drop back into the cabinet and only the dust being evacuated from the cabinet. I'm considering making the snorkle "tuneable" so the amount of suction can be regulated. I'll put up some pics of it installed and give an evaluation report after a good blasting session.

Yep, the colored side markers would look nice....now send me those clear ones, so they can be properly disposed of.

I can answer your second question because I have a parts catalog handy, but will leave the first question to someone more knowledgable. These are the shock absorbers used up to 07/73. Front 56110-E4125 - US & CAN 56110-E4126 - HS30 2 seater Rear 56210-E4125 - US & CAN 56210-E4126 - HS30 2 seater

Good idea. That may disperse the inertial cavitation of the water more effectively. On the other end of that pipe in the cabinet, I plan to copy this... a friend has an older clam shell style blast cabinet that still works great and I noticed it was designed with an extention pipe that was slotted along the length on the bottom and capped at the end. He said it was the best he had seen for capturing the dust but allowing the heavier media to fall back into the cabinet. I checked the price on a package of the peel & stick window overlays. A bit on the pricey side, I thought. $29.99 plus tax for 8. They are 22" x 11".

These are the plastic peel & stick bordered window films I am using. I will stop in and find out how many come in a package and the cost, if these will work for anyone. They measure 21 1/4" X 9 3/4". Will, I think that the plastic screening may have an advantage over the stainless mesh. I may be wrong and have not heard of any comparison trials, but I think the energy absorbing properties of the plastic will outlive the rigidity of the stainless mesh in a blasting cabinet. I do hope you try it, so we will know. Has anyone here made or used a water filter made from a 5 gal bucket to capture the dust before reaching the shop vac. Here's a few pics I rifled off the net of someones home made variety. Supposedly, if built properly, zero dust makes it to the shop vac and you simply hose out the muck between blasting sessions. This serves to keep all the dust out of the atmosphere and greatly expands the life expectancy of your shop vac. I'm planning on building one and will report back with my evaluation.

Welcome Mike! Custom paintjob with cartoon characters? Cool, we will need to see those pics! Yep, checked the pics...Pebbles & BamBam. Most cars that are referred to as "Flintstone" cars on this site have bad floors. Good to see one that is solid!

This is what I want to adapt to my cabinet. After reading your post John, I looked in the Snap-on catalog under blasting accessories for the screen, or a kit, but they only list the window replacement films. Do you have a part number for the screen or can you describe it? How is it held in place? I mentioned that I used to sandblast in an old dining tent. I learned that the dust escaped but the sand was contained, so when I heard of screen being used to protect the viewing windows on blasting cabinets, it made perfect sense to me. I am curious if it is effective when using #13 fine glass bead.

:beer:Ha Ha! Good one Zak!...I was thinking along those lines too but didn't want to wizz anyone off. Brought back lots of memories of my misspent youth when we had to cross the border and make the trek to Toledo, in order to drink at 18.

Someone suggested using a screen to deflect the majority of blast media. I think this is a great idea, but I haven't tried it yet because I'm still using glass bead that is too fine for any screen I have seen. When I bought my cabinet, it came with a half dozen spare plastic overlays, complete with the adhesive peel & stick edges. Extras are available where I bought the cabinet also. I customized my cabinet, adding externally mounted lighting and an additional squirrel cage blower to bring in clean air, which really helps the shop vac to clear the air. Next, improvement will be a water filter positioned inline before the shop vac. It was a lot easier when I used to sandblast inside an old screened dining tent, but not according to my neighbors.

A lot of "taste testing" over the years but Labatts Blue has always been the favorite.

Any good tap & die set will come with a screw pitch gauge as shown in this pic of my Snap-On Metric set. Using this gauge is the quickest and most exact way to find the number of threads per inch on a bolt or nut. Used for both external and internal threads. I have had this set for almost twenty years and although lightly used, I have never broken a tap or die yet. The same can also be said for my SAE Hilka set that I have used a lot over the last forty years, so there is something to be said for paying once up front for quality. Then when needed, the correct tap or die will be there, not broken/missing.