geezer

Thanks for pointing that out Gary. That must be the reason I had saved that pic originally. When posting it yesterday I had thought it was an MSA spook that was mounted higher on the valance but now after taking a closer look, it is obvious that the entire piece is a few inches longer on each side. Not a bad look.

That's great Kats! I will look for this issue and the next in the book stores here, but I must admit that I have not seen this magazine on the rack before. Anyone know where to get a copy online? Congrats!! March 22nd at Fuji Speedway will be a day you will never forget!

I have an unducted MSA spook here that I have not installed yet, if you would like pics of it. I am using a rear spoiler, so following the same reasoning that Arne pointed out for going with the ducted style and no rear spoiler, I hope to maximize stability and still keep the classic look of a spook. I agree with Diseazd on the quality/price of the MSA version. If there is such a thing as being more correct for an aftermarket piece, the ducted version from Classic Datsuns is more faithful and reminiscent of the "original BRE spook" and well liked by those that have them. I apologize for not remembering where I got the first pic, or who's car this is. The second pic is from the collection of 26thZ if I remember correctly. I really like the look of the front end of this car. I think it would look great ductless also.

Have a great weekend guys! Family matters are keeping me close to home but it doesn't make me any less enthused/proud to see Carl's car being put on display amongst such prestigeous company. Those of us who can't make it are looking forward to seeing the pics. Congrats Carl, it's time to reap some rewards for all your hard work & dedication to the hobby!

Welcome jerz! We never tire of looking at pics of such nice examples as your car or brochures that illustrate these market variations. Were the indicator lights mounted on the front bumper also fitted after being shipped, before sale? Are they also common to other models in the UK, as the mirrors are?

I think Mr Camouflage came up with the answer John was looking for in post #2, even if other parts can be found that are more expensive per lb. If that ain't it...I'm stumped! So I guess, for lack of better answers, I'm nodding my head up and down in agreement with "OEM headlight covers" for the first question and MikeW's "decal" suggestion for the second.

Thanks for the reminder. I was due to kick in a few more coins. Money well spent.

I figure this is the thread to add new relevent information to better understand the Ebay/PayPal experience. Mostly because it "Ticks Me Off". I had bought and never recieved items from Ebay on a few other occasions and nothing was done about it other than lip service, but this time it was for a substantial amount of money and I made sure to take all the precautions to ensure not getting stung. Without boring everyone with details, it resulted with me winning the PayPal "Item Not Recieved" process and the funds were returned to my account. I immediately went to "My Ebay" with the intention of leaving a negative feedback because I wanted to share the bad taste left in my mouth with anyone else tempted to buy from this seller. SURPRISE!!...The "Leave Feedback" button was gone and replaced with..."View PayPal Transaction". My ability to warn anyone of stepping into a trap was gone and the unscrupulous seller doesn't get so much as a "Negative Feedback". I am supposed to be content that after waiting several months, I've been given my own money back. This just further explains how a devious Power Seller can sell many low dollar items, occasionally, intentionally stiff people for big ticket items and hope the unwary buyer slips up during the process (which is easy to do) disqualifying themselves from getting a refund. Be careful out there! EDIT: It has been pointed out to me that Feedback can still be left. Although the "Leave Feedback" link was replaced with "View PayPal Transaction" by Ebay, there is a drop down menu which allows us to leave Feedback. If I missed that, I'm sure others have also. I do feel better now, knowing I can warn others.

OK, I separated the 4 pages so I can actually read and scan them. I figured out why these don't turn up. The Delivery Report portion of the Customer Copy is actually a postage free response card, that was either returned to the dealer or maybe just thrown away. I found it amusing that there is a spot for the Salesman's Social Security No. After being removed from the other pages the sheet is 8 1/2" x 11".

If your interested, I can scan all 4 pages and the backsides of the first and last page. These are not carbon copy forms; each page is different for their specific purpose. The only one that someone might want to do some photoshop work on and reproduce would be the "Customer Copy", that was given to the customer upon delivery. The copy I have is a little messed up because it was one that was stapled to the letters I posted as an example and also was 3 hole punched to be put on file in a binder. That's where I found it.

Another document that was given to the owner upon delivery of a new vehicle was a copy of the "Retail Delivery Report" & "Pre-Delivery Inspection List". I don't remember anyone displaying these with their "Bill of Sale". I have one of the multi-copy forms that was never filled out and is still blank. These were used from January of '73 replacing the previous yellow retail delivery card. The first and last pages are printed on both sides. I will make them available if someone with the capability can make good copies.

You guys aren't wasting your time as well as me. You must have missed the episode where Julian gives the car to Ricky? I think Ricky still owns it...not that it adds anything to the plot.:stupid: That is a very old episode beezee; Ray is still living in his trailer and not at the dump yet..."don't tell anybody I'm living at the dump".

It might be harder to envision today, but he had humble beginnings. He didn't actually hit the bigtime until the 280ZX had been out for several years. He was always known as a performance buff, so his attraction to Car & Drivers " 1979 Car of the Year" isn't too much of a stretch, for me, although now he would be easier to picture in a chauffeur driven luxury car. Talking of celebrities of a sort ( I say sort because I can't remember his real name). I ran across a story about "Bubbles" from Trailer Park Boys and the two cars he owns. One is IIRC a Lincoln Town Car and the other is a 1970 240Z. No mention of his go cart.:classic:

We are lucky that these compressed wood & plastic resin steering wheels have held up so well, without cracking, splitting, separating like other "plastic" wheels of this time period. It allows us hobbiests to spruce them up beautifully and inexpensively, without having to send them out to be professionally done. It's a fun project too, that everyone seems to be successful with and no one should be afraid to try. Some great results are shown in those previous threads.

LOLHey..just asking! What's cruel is carrying your spare around your waist, like me.

Glad you found one Carl, but is the search over? While reading this thread, the images of other rally Zs were brought to mind. They carried two onboard spares strapped under the hatch. Not that I've ever seen one in person, but even the model kits picture two spares. Was the Baja Z equipped with only one onboard spare tire for the Baja 1000 Off Road Race?

We make a good pair. I have the rings, but no covers.:disappoin

A newborn Z shirt aint gonna fit that big fella for long! As a matter of fact he'll grow into your Z before you know it! Congrats on the addition to the family!

lm71z - PM me your mailing address so I can send the templates. All I ask is that you keep them and pass them on to whoever may need them next.

Beautiful Mike!!! And those wheels do belong on her...stunning! Yep, #32 landed in the hands of the right guy!

lm71z has accepted my offer to make some templates to locate the quarter panel emblem holes. I'll make them tomorrow after picking up a mylar sheet. That in itself is a simple task, but leaves me uneasy and I would like to hear the opinions of others. We had a previous discussion about these holes not being made at the time of the quarter panel stampings being made because of a market variance requiring a different emblem and stud mounting points. Also, replacement quarter panels did not come with the holes. This means that at some point during the cars construction and journey through the metal shop the proper holes were drilled according to the market destination. Some type of hand held locating fixtures must have been used to locate and drill the holes. Here is what worries me. It is one thing to drill holes with acceptable accuracy when there are none present, but trying to match up with holes hidden just below the surface is another matter. Do you think it would be better to make access holes and drill from the backside, or attempt to use a template made from another car??? If it was my car I would drill from the backside, to be sure of getting it right.

Check out these door panels. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143227&highlight=door+panels

That's right, there is only 5/8" space there and an angle drill won't fit either. You need someone to send you a template, so you can locate the holes...or try this. It could be possible to direct enough light from the backside, so the holes will show in the dark. It won't work if the holes have been welded up and it would also depend on how much filler was used to cover the holes. You have nothing to lose trying this and if it doesn't work, I could make you a template. I have a '70 with the panels and emblems off at present. PS - One other option would be to drill holes just large enough in the inside panel that is blocking access, so you can use your drill with a long bit from the backside.

Drilling through a fresh or relatively new painted surface is generally not a problem, but it can be. As long as there is good adhesion between subsequent layers of paint, primers, surfacers and the condition of the underlying coat(s) is good you should not have a problem. There are many instances though where a new coat of paint has been applied over an aged layer of paint which should have been removed before painting. This was a common problem, when a car that was painted with lacquer was prepped and repainted with a modern paint system only to find it eventually checks and cracks, showing through the new paint. Even old enamel paint jobs that should have been removed can pose a problem down the road. I have removed old enamel paint jobs with nothing more than a razor blade, showing a total lack of adhesion with a previous paint job. Any paint job is only as good as all underlying work. Even an expensive 2 part multi-coat polyurethane paint job can be a problem when drilling through it or applying pressure on it when mounting trim/accessories. A trick used when drilling through thick poly is to run the drill in reverse with light pressure, heating the paint and making it more flexible and less likely to split, chip or crack, then put the drill in forward and drill the hole. I know, it's a long answer to your question, but I just wanted to point out that your concern of the paint splitting is real. You have a good margin of safety from where the holes need to be drilled and the edges of the emblems before a "mistake" will show. Good luck!