geezer

The slides & pictures would suggest a pre-production co-existance of D caps that differed from a frontal view point and as far as we know, a hybrid version has never surfaced in the later style with the early retention clips. I would venture a guess that the decision was made before production began, to exhaust the supply of "early" D caps before running the new improved version. The problem of the wheel flex and caps falling off was likely known early on. I doubt any official record survives of what transpired. I agree, information collected from original owners who still have their original caps would be sporatic at best, but unless documentation is found, or a credible first hand account is given, it's all speculation otherwise.

This could be a tough question to answer. The sellers response to me was his belief that I had it backwards and he thought he had 3 early D caps and 1 later version. I haven't responded to him yet, because he has made me think about something I brought up in Kat's thread recently. The slides that Kats has recently aquired show what is a very early car and is the same car used to take the photographs for the Service Manual P/N 99999-20016, which is an undated edition. It has what I thought to be the later style D caps mounted. This makes me ask...why? Also, look at this prototype photo, which is most certainly pre-production. Have we had this wrong all along? Notice the center D is rotated 180 degrees in the prototype pic. Zealous, PM me an email address and I get some pics in the daylight tomorrow.

Are you guys like me and notice an out of place early D cap or visa/versa right away now without intentionally looking for it. It seems that once you know what to look for, it becomes an automatic visual magnet, like everything else on these cars I guess. I contacted the seller and offered my contact info if the eventual buyer wants to swap the early cap for a comparable condition later style one to correct the set. So, if the unmatched set was holding anyone here back from bidding, it can be fixed easy enough.

I'm not familiar with these vents used for early Corvettes, but you could inquire about the actual dimensions of them to see if they compare to the 240Zs vents. http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/productr.asp?pf%5Fid=I%2D138&gift=False&0=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D3210%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D%2CSeat%20Back%20%26%20Vents&HSLB=False&mscssid=0C8764462554D49D9B498796AB3F721D

I don't think it is over priced, but maybe not a good idea to try selling as a single lot. He would do much better for himself, if broke down to sets. A re-seller will see the value and flip this lot into a nice profit for time spent to sell it.

There is mention of a modified seat back eyelet kit, that contained parts for one seat, four eyelets and plain washers. Referred to as just "Seat Back Fasteners, HLS30" with no part number. It's free to ask your local dealer, but I don't know how they would react to "no part number".

To understand the entire S30 model run ("family") we first have to know the reasons for the creation of so many different model designations. Each and every market has a governing body who mandates their requirements, which must be met before any vehicle is allowed for sale. I couldn't tell you how many of these different governing bodies there are/were worldwide (I would need lots of help to get it right), but for example in the US there are Federally mandated requirements of the MVSS - Motor Vehicle Safety Standards and also voted into law requirements put in place by individual States. The most well known of these State requirements are the ones set forth by the State of California mainly dealing with vehicle emissions. There are also Munincipal Governments who can set forth legislation that will require special build requirements. One example I can think of is the decibel limits set forth for horns within New York City. Of course that would be handled by a dealership and not the factory. Those are requirements. There are also different models created within the boundaries of these mandates intended to increase sales across the broad cross section of the buying public. Also, the research and development departments who gauge the wants/needs of the buying public and test the innovations and advances coming from the designers who have to create a new model designate in order to move ahead with their evaluations. The testing and feedback was performed 99% by the buying public. Also to satisfy sanctioning bodies for racing, a number of vehicles had to be produced, further extending the lineage. Just to show a very small slice of model variances in the US during the transition years of 1974 through 1975 take a look at the attached chart designating Model Lines. Compound this by all the different mandated requirements, sales directed variances and special needs such as testing, racing, etc. and there is going to be a hockey sock full of model designations worldwide. Now, spread this over a number of years. There is an explanation that can be given for each of these model designations. None of this should be confused with allowable options which could be ordered above and beyond, within certain markets and models. Factory installed options were included in the build sheets. Now, lets look at this from the perspective of Nissan, on the shop floor and the methods used in the production of these cars. Orders came in from around the world. All the information that is contained in these orders had to be organized and arranged in a language that was understood by everyone involved with the scheduling and manufacturing process. This is where "bango", an internal use only code was used with the use of numbers, letters and a combination of both. Visualize an assembly line where every part needed for every different model designation was on hand. There could have been one, two, three or even more different variances of a single part, each used for a different model/market. The men manning these assembly stations had to be able to tell at a glance which part was "called for", for each vehicle or assembly as it came to them. Back then build sheets were used. They were compiled by using the information from the Vehicle Order Forms. This code was devised to describe the correct part. These build sheets were arranged in a grid pattern with a color system also introduced, all with the purpose of providing instant recognition. Each worker had the ability to determine the market designation or part needed as naturally as breathing. Each operation had a different portion of the sheet designated for their use, to keep it simple and to the point. A skilled supervisor could scan an entire build sheet and pick out a mistake in the build in seconds. It was second nature. Today, paperless production methods use overhead monitors to automatically relay this information to the assemblers. I think the information contained in the stamped "what we have referred to as a VIN" on the cowl/bulkhead, is very limited, but it did serve the purpose, which was three-fold.The first part being the relevant information needed in the Metal Shop to fabricate the correct chassis needed to accommodate the selected engine package, specify left or right hand drive and permanently record the numbered suffix, which pinpoints the start of the build or the "time of birth" of any particular S30. The Prefix and Suffix combined have a direct relationship with the Vehicle Order Number which is also used to provide all the information needed to compile the build sheets needed to complete the vehicle, regardless of the market. What is lost after Nissan destroyed the internal use build records? The exact time/date of frameup. What we are left with is a date of conformance, which is narrowed down to the month and year that the vehicle was deemed fit for entering the market. If the build sheets were left in the vehicles, they could be easily decifered and that would have quite easily answered the question, "determining how car was equipped from factory"? I have yet to see a close up readable build sheet used for the S30. When I summon up an image of the S30 production run, I might look at it from a North American skewed point of view, but for the lack of a more descriptive terminology other than a model run or build, "family" is quite fitting and effectively drives home the point. Questions, points of view, criticism...all excepted below.

Holy crap Jimmy! Now were all gonna get yelled at! Oh, and while you're standing in that HLS30 line, I'll be in the shorter line.:laugh:

This is so very true. With this being brought up in this thread and also being asked in another is, "determining how car was equipped from factory", I think a dedicated thread is nessesary to do this subject justice. I will start a new one soon and contribute what I can to help promote further understanding. As far as L24-063102, you never know, it may turn up. Here's a thought. Look for a post by MikeW and follow his registry link and list it under Engines and note "looking for". Too bad Mike's link wasn't out in the open more, it would get more traffic.

Thanks for the recommendation but after thinking about it, I'm going to try my hand at cleaning and oiling one of these. There aren't any repairs needed, just delicate cleaning, oiling and lens polishing. I plan to install a hidden switch to turn the clock off when not in use to prevent a drain on the battery. The rally clocks to me are just a curiosity item and there is no garrantee how long the oscillators will hold out so why spend a lot of money on the clock.

Looks like this guy procrastinated if he has to be out by Dec 1st. No doubt the value is there and could be good for someone local with the space and time to deal with it all. Here's the link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.com%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm38%26_nkw%3D130271235299%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&item=130271235299&viewitem=

Ditto, except I would say that powder coated or painted to look like natural aluminum is my preference for the trans & diff cover.

Glad it worked. Don't buy any parts for these carbs until you have read the info I'm sending and you have determined which type you have.

I used to get the yellow from a machinist friend, but I just checked and don't have any more. It is much more potent than the red and actually deeply etches the surfaces of the adjoining parts creating what would be considered a permanent bond.

In a worse case senario I would use a drop of yellow Locktight before pressing the spring pin onto the float pin and allow it to set. Good Luck

Yes, I've done rebuilds on dozens of carbs of all types. SUs are basically pretty simple and it's certainly your perogative to use flat tops if you want, even if most of us think they will cause you grief. I have followed your thread on HybridZ for the last four days and kinda wish I was there to help. The pin is likely set in place with an interference fit in the body. My best solution for removal would be to use a spring pin. If you don't know what that is they sometimes go by the name of expansion pin, roll pin, slotted pin, tension pin etc. I have hundreds of various ones in my parts bin. If you find the appropriate sized pin and force it onto the float pin, you will then be able to clamp some vise grips on the other end which will grasp the float pin tightly. Turn slowly & pull out.

The wear groove will not be in the pin itself but in the layer of crude that is coating it. Find a piece of plastic tubing that will fit over the end of the pin with a tight interference fit and then slowly twist & turn it out. Or use a spring steel pin that will push on and grab a hold of it. It seems like a simple task to me and makes me think you are never going to get these carbs running satifactory. I think your best bet is a round top swap.

WOW Mike! Between these and the tailight trim you have achieved some beautiful results. If I were you, I would be looking into what it would entail setting up your own plating operation. Nice work! Oh..Happy B/Day!

Try holding it with the pin in a vertical position over top of a bucket to catch it and repeatedly tap it sharply with the hard plastic end of a screw driver handle or something similar from the other side. It will only be the slight wear grooves on the pin holding it in place on the float arm. While doing this try taking the weight of the float off the pin by holding it up with one finger.

Chris - Who did you get to service & clean your rally clock? I've got a few that I have tested, they are working but I don't want to run them again until they are serviced. I need a knob for the single knob late model calender clock also. Yeah I know, I'm a clock whore.:eek:

I would like to see those two TSBs I mentioned in post 15. For some reason they were removed from my set. They could provide a clue. Another thing to consider is the common practice of using tubes in extreem cold conditions. I will have to try to track down tire part numbers and tubes.

Thanks for the offer Chris but I have enough now. Bruce did connect me with a supply house that advertized it in Ontario that I called but they didn't have any in stock and couldn't tell me when they would, so the Michigan source was my best bet. Not too problematic if I order it ahead of time when I have a cross border trip planned anyhow. I didn't get into any actual paint prep tips because I knew Enrique would chime in and his methods have produced some excellent results. Solid tips from CrossroadsZ also, no matter the product line. The reason for using Zero Rust instead of just starting with the epoxy primer is this. It is a lot easier & cheaper to cover these unseen areas as you get to them with a product like Zero Rust. I use a variety of methods to reach these areas. Some spots you can brush, others I use a wand with an old lawn sprinkler nozzle on my shutz gun...whatever it takes. During a restoration it can be a long time between spurts of work, but you still need it protected when that particular portion is completed. Point being, I don't open my expensive epoxy primer until I'm ready to cover finish panels or large visible areas. Good Luck!

40300-E4600 5.5"x14" ?

I have had great results with POR 15 and have learned when to use it and when not to. I am using Zero Rust for the first time on this restoration and have no reason not to believe the claims made by them. We have gone into this before. The two products are totally different in their composition. I think I explained before that I do not use either of these products on any areas that would be considered a finish panel or even in the engine compartment. For these areas you should be looking at a complete paint system from the metal up. Like Jimmy says, consult your paint supplier or whoever is going to do the spraying for their advise. Myself I prefer PPG's DP90 Epoxy Primer for my buildable base and it's only common sense then to follow up with a surefire compatible basecoat/clearcoat by PPG also. Not that I'm saying you have to go with PPG products but do yourself a favor and use a total compatible system. Back to the POR 15. I have some examples of suspension & underbody components on other restorations that are at least 8-9 years old, still protecting but turning a bit milky in color. Of course that can or could have been avoided by topcoating. I also used it in many areas that will never been seen, but that I still wanted to protect from future rust. Does the job, but I wouldn't use it and try to built a finish paint system overtop. Same goes for the Zero Rust. I am using it in all the hidden unseen areas. This car like no other I have done was severely rusted, needing outer rockers, rear quarters, floor pans, supports, front frame rails, outer wheel housings and several other pieces. I more or less turned it inside out which exposed most every unseen area on one of these cars. This is where I'm using the Zero Rust. I had been told by friends that if there were areas of overlap where my PPG DP90 Epoxy Primer was applied over the Zero Rust there would not be any problems down the road. As a precaution I lightly sand any Zero Rust that will be covered with the epoxy primer. So far Zero Rust has been a pleasure to use with zero problems. PS - I forgot to mention the difficulty of getting Zero Rust in Canada. I had the help of Bruce Palmer but still had to pick it up in Michigan myself. Nobody will/can ship it over the border.

I would steer clear of this one. I agree, it would only take a few minutes for the seller to test it and I can't believe he wouldn't have done so. The price is right out of the ball park now for what should be considered a non-working rally clock. I don't think they are as rare as some sellers would have you think either. Keep your ear to the ground and sooner or later one will come along that the seller will stand behind as working. The oscillator for this one looks like it is rusted quite a bit. Not a good sign either.