geezer

Congrats...nice car! I don't think I could have resisted the urge to drive her home, but I don't have a 4 month old at home either.

I know it is preferable to deal in facts when it comes to the S30, but when an anomaly such as this is found I can’t help but try to find the reason for it. This is pure speculation on my part, but I would like to relay my theory. Please feel free to tell me what you think. This theory is based on the premise that it was acceptable to upgrade a vehicle when a mistake had been made but not acceptable to downgrade when a mistake had been made. This is a practice that was in effect during this time period in the assembly plants I was involved with. It was just good economic sense. For example, if a wrong part was installed and the cost to change it was more than the difference of the upgraded part and estimated labor cost it was common practice to allow the upgrade. Everyone knew what upgrades were acceptable and what ones weren’t. I think these longer luggage straps are the result of a mistake made during their assembly, but deemed to be acceptable for use. It could not have been a mistake that simply slipped by because the straps are used in pairs. Nobody has found a car with only 1 long strap. I am visualizing the work station where these luggage straps were assembled. The operator would be seated at a sewing machine, a hot knife cutting fixture would be used and all needed parts would be at arms length. The parts would include: 2 – end brackets 1 – large buckle piece 1 – small buckle piece 1 – plastic sleeve 1 – length of banding (the reason for 1 piece of banding instead of two will become apparent) The bench/work station must have had a method of measuring incorporated in the design to allow for consistency in the length of the straps. I am picturing a jig where after the strap end has been threaded through the end bracket and sewn, it is hooked by the screw holes in the end bracket and stretched out to the hot knife cutting fixture. After being cut this end would be folded over and sewn. After threading on the plastic sleeve this strap section is complete, ready to be threaded onto the buckle of the second piece after it is sewn onto the other end bracket and the two buckle pieces. A seemingly simple operation, but with the boredom of these type of jobs, workers trying to meet a quota, the interruption of work because of scheduled breaks, shift changes, or any number of reasons, mistakes are made. In this case, it would be as easy as picking up the longer strap that has been cut to size and sewing the buckle pieces on by mistake. Whoops…put that one aside until we have a set, because it’s bound to happen again. It would have been a waste of man hours to interupt the work flow, correct the piece and dispose of the remmants. This is why I don’t think you will find the longer straps in any manuals, brochures, or offered as an option. I think they are just simple mistakes that were allowed to be used early on in the S30 build. Edit - One thing I forgot to mention is, if the length needed for a normal short piece is removed from the long one, the piece left over is exactly the length of one of these oddball long straps. Coincidence?

That will work well and add quite a bit of strength. The only thing to watch out for is fitment interference. I have done this on small problem pieces that had started to crack and it worked well. Doing all the panels will be quite a project, but worthwhile. Good Luck!

I filled a 55 gal. plastic drum with boiling hot water using the Rit dye. The carpet was a badly faded navy blue from my Barracuda, but not excessively worn. The dark blue color was restored but the carpet still looked aged. I think what stood out the most was the ends of the fibers, that didn't seem to take the color as well. I ended up buying a new carpet set and the difference between my failed attempt and the new carpet was like night & day. I won't try it again.

Mike, I was cataloging some spare parts and packing them away when I came across a set of the long luggage straps. They also are woven from the heavier/coarse material you have described. These came from a '70 parts car. From the looks of these, they have never been extended. I think I got a good pic of the weave texture.

I find it astounding how many wheel options were available for Z's early on. I know Appliance had at least a half dozen designs to choose from also. It would be interesting to list all the manufacturers and their vintage offerings, if it hasn't been done. Worldwide, there were probably quite a few I've never seen. Great thread Mike!

Here are a couple more from Shelby to round out their vintage lineup, although I'm guessing these two came a few years later. The first scan is the Shelby Serpent (sorry, no specs). In the second scan, on the right, the Shelby Diamondback was designed with offset for maximum fenderwell clearance. This wheel was available as 13x5, 14x6 and 14x7. The Viper & Diamondback wheels are shown mounted with Shelby tires.

The Suspension Techniques lowering springs available today for '70-'73 are progressive spring rate, will lower the car 1" and cost in the neighborhood of $175.00 a set. I have a ST set from the mid '80s for '70-'73. Both front and rears are linear spring rate. The rears have labels attached to identify them as such, no labels on the fronts and no part numbers are visable. They were mated with a set of Konis and were on my car when I bought it. I haven't been able to find out anything else about them. If you look in my gallery you can see how the car sat with them installed. Are the ones you have linear also? No indication what model years they fit? Edit-Didn't see your post before mine. I have it backwards..the fronts are labeled, not the rears.

Truly, the jewel of Seattle! Beautiful car indeed. The Shelby Viper wheels look great. Good score on the center caps. I agree, save the D caps for showing her.

You see these stick on emblems on Ebay available in two sizes. 1.50" and 1.75" I think. They are available in different styles. MSA has the Z emblems. The caps look good done up this way and all that matters is that you like them. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-WHEELS-EMBLEMS-240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-B210-Z-CAR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43961QQihZ011QQitemZ320258698816QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I just had a look at mine from a 10/70 which are still tagged in a baggie. They are the standard flat black oxide finish. I tried to remove some of the finish to reveal what you describe, but couldn't.

Very nice Arne! The spook looks good body color also. Everything seems to have fallen into place nicely in a short amount of time.

Bummer Jason, If it isn't one thing it's...

$40.00? Dang that sure seems a bit pricey for a bolt & washer package. Anyone know what the difference is between this and the stock bolt & washer?

Welcome Dave, lots of work to be done and lots of information at our fingertips on this site. Either someone is doing it or has done it. Good luck with the project.

Sure does! I've heard the view is even better from the other side of the windshield when you get the wheels moving.

I'm not familiar with the testing proceedures used for these gauges and don't know what the voltage reading should be at the VR (limiter), but if you feed it a ground in place of the transmitter wire it should peg the needle. If not I would suspect the gauge itself as being at fault. That's just my guess. You need to hear from someone that is familiar with a tried and true method of testing these.

E, I don't have a lot of experience working with or testing these gauges but I know that less resistance will result in a higher current flow, which will make the gauge read higher as the temperature or pressure rises. So yes, I would say the sensors decreases resistance as the temperature or pressure rises.

An explanation is in order here. Both Carl & I recognized the location these pics were taken as the same used by another seller. That, and this seller having a 0 feedback immediately put up a red flag. I apologize if this erroneous warning caused any inconvenience to the seller or potential buyers. The protection of our members was foremost in my mind. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-911-1989-PORSCHE-911-TURBO-CABRIOLET-W-363-ORIGINAL-MILES_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ10156QQihZ020QQitemZ300227124596QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

You got a great deal! It's been my experience that if you keep putting in low bids, sooner or later they fall into your lap. The Body & Chassis manuals come up for auction regularly. About a year ago I won one in incredible condition on Ebay for $10.00 plus shipping. In between the pages I found the bill of sale for the manual.

I've seen several cars up for auction that were poised in front of this very garage, but not by this seller. The name of the other seller escapes me. I agree..SCAM!!

Sorry Carl, I'm an arse. I resisted the urge on Post #23 but the perfect straight man lead in got me.:stupid:

Not Me! I found out I'm wearing a hat that says "I NEED A TUG"!:classic:

Good tip Dan. I once had this same problem with different car. The unibody subframe was so deteriated and weakened, I had to jack the car up from underneath in proximity to the door latch before the stress was relieved enough to allow the latch to release. Don't know if this is relevant in your case though.