geezer

It's obvious that you have the patience and delicate touch nessesary to get beautiful results like this. The finished product looks absolutely stunning. Nice work! Thanks for the tutorial.

Placing an Ad in the forums like you have done, will not do you much good. It will roll down the page and not get the exposure you want. By putting it in the classifieds it will be seen, because people that are interested in buying, know to look there regularly.

On the left side of this page, click on Classified Ads. Click on the country. Top right corner Click on Place an Ad. Click on the the type of Ad (Cars for Sale). Click on the submit. Compose & enter your Ad. It's straight forward. Any problems, come back here and just ask.

If you searched you may have come across this thread which links to others and also has explanations & pics of Jon & Marty's shifters, both of which solved the problem. I managed to fit my inner boot, but I didn't as yet test fit the console. I didn't have to trim very much and don't foresee any problems. The shifter shape is key. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24923&highlight=shifter+truck

So very true. It is a necessity, to insure the profit margin that is desperately relied on to fund day to day operations of the company and also be seen as profitable by the shareholders. It is a whole new ballgame today with so many different automakers competing for the same piece of pie. From concept to launch, every new model has to pass the scrutiny of first, the corporate boardroom and second the intended markets. The concepts we first see are usually fresh and appealing. They instill desires in a wide cross section of the buying public. These concept vehicles are used as gauges to measure the feasibility of committing the resources needed to bring a new model to fruition. What starts out as a “I’d buy one of those” when seen for the first time, is slowly, methodically whittled down by the entire gammit of decision makers, none of which wants his head on the chopping block for making the decision his superiors in the corporate structure would see as detrimental to the company’s bottom line. In essence, the final product is the result of thousands of compromises, deemed to be a welcome addition to the lineup. What percentage of today’s buying public do we, as classic sports car enthusiasts make? My guess is, not enough to go out on a limb and gamble the farm on. Yesterday is gone.

Somehow it just sounds better the way you explain it. Makes me want to do it more often!

I can't stress enough how important it is to complete the installation in one non-stop operation before the gasket which has been preheated cools down. Also, an appropriate lubricant must be used to make the rubber slippery as possible, to prevent any tears/damage to the rubber. Now keep in mind before going to this link where we discussed this before, Carl has a ton of experience with Zs and knows the best way to deal with the stainless trim on a Z. I have never tried his method yet, which I'm sure is a feasible method. I'm just a creature of habit and have always done it differently on other vehicles. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24864&highlight=isopar+tools

I like the comments made in post #5 by RIP260Z. This is only opinion on my part, but I think the gaskets were originally designed for and used as assembly aids that could serve somewhat of a dual purpose and also act as a seal in between the two parts. I am just visualizing how much easier & quicker it would be to align the nacelle and fasten it accurately to the fender with the gasket allowing it to slide in place with less friction, snagging or hanging up out of position. A seasoned/experienced assembly worker could very well forego this step, and probably did with the blessing of Nissans bean counters. A new worker learning this job may have used them only until they became proficient. For a restoration, I like Wick Humble's method.

You had a busy day! I'm curious about the gaskets presence inbetween the headlight buckets and the fenders.

In your other post you said the block serial number started with L20. That put the kibosh on your plans. You have a L20E in your car, it is not a L28. Use the search function and familiarize yourself with what you have and what you can do with it.

I'm not that well versed when the topic of the L20 comes up, but I know the L20 that the Japanese home market cars came with were inline 6 cylinder engines putting out 130hp. The E30 head is the one that came with it. You could run one on a L24, but the compression ratio would be upped a bit. One of my L24s has a E30 head on it. There is nothing "one of a kind" about it.

Most one wire, internally regulated alternators that I have seen do have the wire run to the battery either directly or connected to the (+)starter post which in turn has the battery cable connected to it. That's the only purpose of the alternator wire, charging the battery. It's obvious that you need the correct wiring diagrams and you need to study them until you understand the circuits. I'm not being critical, just pointing out that this cannot be repaired by someone that doesn't have the needed information.

Sailor Bob, that is just being cruel! Not to Enrique but the rest of us. I've got all these images of Enrique implanted in my head now. Prepping his hair in front of the mirror, bustin his moves on the lights of the dance floor, but yeah...clean rear suspension.

Here's the Ebay link. I spotted the pic in the gallery you uploaded from the catalog. There seems to be a lot of interest in this car. I bet it will get interesting when it comes down to the wire. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-240-Z-Datsun-1973-240Z-in-storage-for-25-Years-19K-MILES_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6187QQihZ013QQitemZ230247712854QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

This question came up just this week. Now quit teasing us and lets see it!:laugh: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=30360

Very nice Arne! The new paint itch is going to get more intense now. Did your metal man give you an idea of the level of difficulty or any problems doing this transplant? Before you reinstall the headliner, it would be the perfect time to research a good spray on stiffiner to apply to the underside.

I would use maxi fuses with ratings that are matched to the fusible links recommended for use with the '82 L28et. You will have to do the research on that. Make sure your circuits are repaired and tested before running any power to them or it could get costly replacing maxi fuses. Good Luck

A combination of things probably caused this to happen. After being stored for the winter, the amount of resistance in your wiring will be at an increased level and possibly enough heat would be generated to cause fusible link meltdown. That's a good thing, because it prevented further damage to wiring and other components. Just the increased amount of corrosion on the starter motors rotor & stator after sitting all winter will cause it to turn over slower or cause a higher amperage draw, creating a lot of heat. You possibly ran the starter motor a little longer than what it takes to start the engine also. Try cleaning all your electrical connections first before looking for other problems that might not exist. That's my guess.

There are many variations of maxi fuses, but I find the orange colored ones in the pic the easiest to adapt to most harnesses. Just hunt down some proper sized wire terminals, crimp onto the wires, heat shrink and wrap into the harness leaving the test cavities visble and accessable. I thought I had a boatload of these left but this is all I could find.

Do you have the wiring diagrams you need? What can you tell us about the instrument panel harness? You may need another diagram for that. Find out how many fusible links you would be replacing and their amperage values and then go to most any good automotive parts supplier for them. Save fuel, use the phone book.

Ok, here is my read on this particular problem. Although a 1982 L28et in a 1974 260Z can be called "rare" as Steven points out, that is not how I am looking at it because the engine was changed out along with the harness and in essence should be diagnosed as a L28et using the appropriate wiring diagram, no matter what chassis it sits in. Looking at the pictures, I get the impression that most of the damage is in the local of the fusible links, and as Enrique mentioned the wire that was used in place of the fusible link, could have created more damage in the circuit. That very well could be the root of problem, but there is no way to tell without individualy testing each wire and subsequent circuit. I do not have a wiring diagram for this but I'm guessing that a few 40Amp maxi fuses could be substituted in place of the fusible links. I have done this in other vehicles by simply using the correct sized terminals that clip onto the spades of the maxi fuse and then heat shrink and tape into the harness with the maxi fuse still visible. Works well, is cheap enough and is easily replaced if nessesary.

Doubtful that it is a "really rare problem", but I would have to agree with "hard to diagnose". Most cars that are driven have varying degrees of commonality with a purists values, and most of us that frequent this site are not "purists", but do understand & admire the dedication of those who are. I think the problem here is the difficulty of coming up with a diagnoses without having the car in front of you. There looks to be a lot of damage and degregation on your harness. Hopefully you have a good wiring diagram because you will need it. You will have to take this job 1 wire at a time, looking for damage, shorts to ground, etc. You will need to take resistance readings with your ohmeter to find the "weak links". It looks like an overwealming task, but if you take it one circuit at a time, you will find the faults and be able to repair them. There is no "magic bullet" answer to your problem, just many hours of studying the wiring diagrams, testing the cicuits and repairing the defects you find. Don't just settle for just getting it running, continue with freshening up your harness to avoid future problems.

Windsor, where someone is always doing the math to decide if it's worthwhile to hop across the border to fill up in Detroit. I don't make a special trip, but if I'm going there anyways, I make it a point to fill up on the US side. We need to hear from other parts of the world, to truly see the grim reality, of the cost of gasoline.

I filled up my truck on Tuesday at $1.19.3 CDN, today it is at $1.25.9 CDN. In Newfoundland gas prices are always at the upper end of the scale it seems. It's just part of the price you pay for living in that beautiful far corner of the planet.