geezer

Mike, I did see the post and didn't want to contaminate the thread with a lot of speculation on my part and no real knowledge of the wooden tags. Precisely the reason the dialogue I have had with Chris and others, was taken off site. The knowledge/work experience I have gained since the late '60s gives me a unique perspective that I'd like to share but in most cases does not relate directly to any of the subject matter brought up in these forums. Chris, I've lost track of how much we covered. You are free to do as you wish with anything I've shared with you and I will elaborate with greater detail or expand, if nessesary. I was pleased to see someone was interested and could see the parallels of automobile manufacturing practices, here in North America and Japan during the same time period.

Bill, If you are using the original dual point distributor and an automatic transmission as Arne mentioned, let me know and I can dig up the specifics for you. If not..no point.:classic:

That's what I did and found some interesting threads that I hadn't seen previously. Thanks for the link suggestion. It is an interesting subject that I had shared some of my views with Chris some time ago, because I knew he had an interest. This latest stamped tag Arne has found is a nice addition to the collection, that I'm guessing, none of us has seen before. I am hoping Kats can shed some light on the stamp itself. I cannot distinguish the difference between a typical "Ken" stamp that would be used in the production/inspection process and the stamps that would have been used by the suppliers, other than perhaps in some instances such as Arnes example, the presence of a date and the stamp being used on a tag.

We have all heard these stories before. Told a little differently, with the names, places and types of vehicles changed. Typical "Urban Legends" for the most part I think. But, if I was in the area I couldn't hold myself back from investigating further. Heck, I'm still up here digging in the perma-frost searching for HLS30 00009 - 00013. If you get in the warehouse, get some good pics and be sure to pinch yourself if the cars are there.:sleep:

To answer my own question, the HLS30-UV would indicate a manual transmission. HLS30-AUV would indicate an automatic transmission. OK, I'll stand pat and give someone else a stab at it.

The tag designates the market destination to be California. This leads me to ask, what is the difference between a North American market model and one destined for California, as far as the console is concerned?

I'm guessing this is a dated inspection/packing tag that was used by the manufacturer to bundle perhaps a dozen pieces together. A dozen bundles would make a gross for example, to a box. The day is filled out by hand along with the part or what could be a lot number. My guess is the console wire harnesses were bundled with these tags, wired or string tied with only one of the bundles packed into the box having one of these tags, as a part of control/count system used by the manufacturer of the harnesses. The date would coincide with the later date of assembly of the vehicle about right. It is probably a rare occurance to find one of these left in the car. Nice find. Hows that for an off the wall WAG?

They are all offset like that.

These cars are gaining in value and have a niche in the market for some but they don't hold enough appeal for me to consider at much more than half this price. I look at them as the result of a PR sales gimmick, that are not even faithful restorations.

If you just paid this shop to tune your carbs and no other changes have been made by yourself, I think I would drop it off at their shop and let them correct the problem, unless they only warrant their work until your out of the driveway. Only they know what they have done thus far. You stand the risk of compounding the problem by going over their work and then having to explain what you have done, possibly voiding any guarantees from them.

I have never seen a "check connector" in use and the only thing that I would imagine it could be used for, would be a device similar to what was used by Nissan and called a "Detector Drive Counter" which in that case monitored the distance the vehicle had travelled and indicated when the EGR control system should be serviced. Just guessing here but possibly the harnesses were built to spec for a similar purpose, but the devices were never used. Edit-Posted before I read your post Tomo. Can you elaborate on that a bit?

Steve, Maybe by letting MSA know exactly what the problem is they will take the initiative to solve the problem with their supplier and replace the one you have. It is in their best interest to maintain customer satifaction. Especially in this case, where there is not an easy fix and you have paid top dollar for a substandard part. The problem with running it through an english wheel now, is the limited travel because of the bends that are already in place. It will certainly be time consuming and costly if you bring it to someone equipt to reshape it. Also, it would be prefered to have the car present to test fit the panel, as they progress the contour. A very unfortunate situation you have found yourself in, through no fault of your own. I hate to badmouth a company that supports our hobby, but in my opinion they have a moral responsibility here. Spell it out to them and give them a chance to rectify the problem.

Good question! Have you had it over 88 mph? Platonium included, or do we have to deal with the Iranians? Just kidding Darbji, Good luck with the sale and the move.

OK, I'll say it. you paid MSA too much money for an over priced piece of crap, that will lead to an inferior repair. Like John says it will require the use of an English Wheel to create the compound curvature of this piece. There should be no "specific curvature" for any particular car. These are mass produced vehicles and as such, have for the most part exacting dimensions, which should have been duplicated when these replacement panels were produced. Enrique is attempting to help you with a solution to the problem, but I agree with John and would look for a suitable donor from a parts car.

Ends today. If that's more than you need, I'll split them with you. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Body-Emblem-Clips-NOS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33646QQihZ024QQitemZ370039538582QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

You will learn from all categories and if you have a question use the Search button to see what turns up by entering key word(s). There is enough reading in these archives to keep you busy a long time. Just keep in mind that these are old Posts and you should not respond to them unless you have pertinant information to add that will enhance the Thread. Also, check out the Gallery pics. There is an awesome collection of pics to see. We have a Classifieds section also with cars & parts for sale or wanted. Put an ad in there for what you are looking for. If you do find a car you are seriously considering put up some pics and get our opinions in your own Thread. As far as the "buddy list", I have never used it but heck, I'll be your buddy!:classic:

Hi Kobe, Welcome to the club. My advice would be this. Don't jump into anything right away. You will in most cases regret an impulse buy. Take the time to familiarize yourself with these cars and learn all you can. The SEARCH feature here will yield vast amounts of information which has the potential to save you a lot of money. An educated buyer always gets the better deals. It is noble that you want to replicate your uncles car, but it may be much more cost effective to wait for one to come along that will not require a lot of work to be put into it. The more money spent up front on a better starting point is the best advice you will get. Good luck!

One correct late Series 1 set, black, underpadding included or not.

1961 Series 1, 3.8 XKE Roadster, green/tan that I still drive occasionaly. My wifes brother restores, collects them and also has one built for track use. I never feel more alive than when driving one of these cars. As a youngster I lusted after the Ferraris.

I am more than happy with the work that Bryan has done in the past. I will wait to see what information and carpet samples he comes up with. I am also relying on Jim (Zup), as he has the original examples that best suit my needs I believe.

There are quite a number of them that have been stored away and all but forgotten also. I had the pleasure of seeing three 240Zs this past weekend that have been tucked away for 16 years (real time capsule). But these are overwhelmingly offset by the better than a few hundred being parted out yearly and the numbers will continue to steadily decrease in the coming years IMHO.

That sounds like I have your blessing to hang these pics in a place of prominence in my home. I have walked hundreds of miles of old logging roads in our north country and have always been ecstatic to come across an unmolested vehicle that was driven intact into the bush as far as possible and simply abandoned. They are in various stages of decomposition. Not picked over, but 100% complete. I have seen dozens of them, mostly of the domestic variety, from every decade of the 20th century. Always had fishing gear with me and no camera though. The pics of this abandoned Z were "special" to me and brought back fond memories.

I don't know if this will help or not. TS72-11 which was issued for all models on March 3, 1972. It deals with and includes a revised pre-pasted page to replace page EC-45 of "Service Manual, Emission Control System for 1972 Year Models, Revised Edition". This manual may contain dated information. I will look to see if this manual is among the ones I have, but I don't recall coming across a revised emissions manual. I have a technical training manual for 1972 Emissions, but thats about it I think. The only other TSB from 1972 dealing with Emissions that I found was TS72-90 dated August 25, 1972, which deals with tooling and test proceedures for two & three vane air pumps. I have not found anything specific to the emissions labels. These are multi-paged TSBs. If you would like scans send me a PM with an email address.

I wouldn't want them stacked up in my neighborhood either, but there is a certain beauty to a Z returning to it's base elements. I've been meaning to ask Sailor Bob for permission to make up a 3 panel set of pics of the forgotten Series 1 he posted a while back. Great pics, that would look fantastic enlarged and hung on the wall. ....until the wife sees them.:mad:

I am looking at this from the perspective of the hobbyist that I know who do all their own welding, sandblasting, body work, paint prep and posibly final painting. It seems our numbers are dwindling in recent years, main reason being, it is not as cost effective as it once was and I seriously believe it’s cheaper to farm the paint/metal work out. In my case I have been closed in on all sides by neighbors and this type of work is frowned upon in a residential area. Most of this work is done in stages and in most cases when you can get around to it. Some guys like me always have more than one project underway at once. Also, it’s the same for most of us, life gets in the way, and your project ends up on the back burner for one reason or another, taking much longer to complete than anticipated. This was just a little background information to clarify my particular needs when it comes to a rust inhibiting paint. Bruce asked: "If, your project has totally prepared white metal blasted steel, why wouldn't one just go with the automotive "system" from the steel up?" -In a perfect world where the entire car is blasted, then replacement panels welded in, and then reblasted, you would have no problems using a "complete system", start to finish. In my world, I would be faced with a totally rusted hulk by the time I got back to it. In one day I can only accomplish so much, being at the mercy of the weather, parts availability, time allotments, whatever. Also, the most important areas a product such as this is best used, would be all of the hidden areas that are never seen, but we still want to protect. There will be many bits of work done in stages where it is not feasible to crack open your two part epoxy to cover, for instance a rocker or dogleg. My epoxy doesn't get opened until I'm ready to cover a lot of surface, and not any hidden areas. Bruces point, to use Zero Rust or the like to lock down any existing rust and building the sandable system on top, after full cure is exactly the method I use and why I am interested in the ability of my epoxy primer to bond well to the Alkyd rust inhitors because there is always a lot of overlap. I would be interested in hearing from others, about the process they use to beat the rust monster. Thanks for the local contact information Bruce.