geezer

One other thing you should check. Have someone pour water around the windshield gasket while you get down and check behind the kickpad. It is common for a hole to rust through behind the windshield gasket and then the water will travel down the inside of the A-post all the way to the floor.

Just a few pics to illustrate what you need to do this job. 1-Terminal removal tools. These are used to depress & release the barbs on the terminals in the connectors. There are dozens of different ones. I haven't looked yet but the ones you need will be basic. 2-Business end of my Essex Wire crimper ( used it for 35 years ). 3-My son's new crimp tool 4-Illustration of the crimps used. 5-One of the "kits" I have on hand, that includes terminals & connectors (male & female pieces assembled in pic). Not the same as you would use, but just an example of whats available at a reasonable price.

Glad to see progress being made Zak, even if it is at a slower pace than you expected. I bet you haven't come close to running out of other jobs that need to be done before reassembly yet. It seems there is always something left to do, even when your done...can that be right?..yep:stupid:

I may be able to help you piece this jigsaw together. I have a 10/70 engine harness and corresponding dash harness out of the car at my disposal for comparison purposes if needed. In order for us to stay on the same page and speaking the same language, I suggest using the illustrations Enrique provided. Each connector should be assigned a number. In turn each of the cavities in each connector should be numbered. Both male & female connectors have to be a mirror image but the corresponding wire colors may not match and should be noted. It can get confusing, but by taking it one connector at a time, you will be able to wittle it down. After you have mated as many of these connectors as possible by using whatever connectors you have at your disposal, it will be nessesary to buy some generic ones to replace the ones you are missing. Cross that bridge when you come to it. You can go to just about any Japanese motorcycle repair shop and buy period correct looking connectors and terminals to replace the ones you can't match up. I don't know if you have any experience working on connectors & terminals. If you don't I can walk you through the methods & tools needed bit. The first thing you need to determine is the connections that you cannot make and label/circle them on Enriques illustration that shows the connectors. Then we can determine if you can come up with any connectors to complete a "set" by using leftovers that can be removed from the old harness and used on the replacement harness. Do you have the tools for removing the terminals from the connectors? I wanted to ask that before damage occurs from incorrect removal. Hopefully most of the terminals will be left on the wires and reused and only the connectors changed where need be.

If you are not overly concerned with originality, just buy a coupler kit. Do a web search. There are some that look period correct. They include the connectors and terminals, both male & female and some even include the crimp tool. It would take some carefull study of the wiring diagrams also. If you are concerned with originality, you bought the wrong IP harness and will have to find the correct one.

It appears to be a manufacturers commemorative plate issued by Nissan for the event. Other manufacturers had their own plates, and from what I have read, it is a classic shape that was first used in 1911 and is still used to this day. Very nice find Kats! http://www.flyingcircuscars.com/US/ourshop.htm

I would keep the POR15 away from any contact surface of a moving part. They were originally zinc coated and painted. After being painted white lithium grease would be a good choice to lubricate them with.

Yes, I noticed that just after my last post while comparing some of the diagrams I have. One other thing I was puzzled over was the device labeled "COOLER" on a supposed Early Z diagram. It is shown spliced into this same blue wire and also has an inline 20A fuse. I was wondering, what the heck is a "COOLER"? Is this what they are referring to instead of the Blower Motor? I guess so. Sorry for the deviation but it does tie into the same circuit.

Most of the carburated boats I have owned were equipt with a throttle control lever. The difference was, the levers were only able to be used in Neutral. Nissan probably found it simply easier to eliminate them instead of designing a safeguard such as that. At the time they were trying to keep up with an incredible demand and would have opted for a solution that wouldn't have to be approved before being imported.

It's not portrayed very clearly, but in the microfiche the Accessory relay for '73 is shown on the Rt/Passenger kick panel. They don't depict the inline fuse but it is likely in the same location as mine, which is just below the harness clip on the Instrument Panel, just to the right of and behind the Heater Control Panel. And guess what, mine is a blue wire even though it is shown in the diagram as a R/L.

I understand about the assumption of the fourth wire being a ground Steve. In the case of a standard ISO relay a ground wire or a bus supplied power wire connected to pin 85 or 86 is not always shown in the diagram. If not shown, the origin is usually explained in the accompanying device description as being supplied via a jumper from pin 30, or if a ground, it will state the chassis ground location. These cars were built in an era before the conception of ISO or ground controlled relays and circuits, and although I find the wiring to be relatively simple, it sure is different and leaves a lot to be desired. That's why I am totally redesigning my electrical to eliminate the high resistance/heat. I am a sad sight with my glasses and magnifying glass trying to read these things. I find it frustrating and hard on the eyes nowadays, but it's still interesting. I am thankful we have guys on the board that are finding and making note of these wiring anomalies.

Good eye Enrique. It's common for these wiring diagrams to have several errors and omissions. Usually a FSM wiring diagram error would be caught early on by a proof reader (can you imagine a more boring job?), or a repair tech after being issued and a revision would be made, but some slip through. The people drawing the diagrams are not the same people who understand/designed the circuitry.

This one shows it. Edit-Got outgunned by Steve...better 2 than none:laugh:

I had a look at the unused throttle cable bracket on my 10/70. It is the same as the one Mike has shown on the right. I find it interesting that the new, improved version of the bracket was adapted to the HLS30's destined for North America, even though it was known to be not needed any longer.

I don't know how far you would like to take this car, but at the very least you should ensure it is, first safe, and second dependable. You have a better idea of the true condition of the underbody, because in the pictures we are seeing the remants of a previous owners rattle can work and a rainbow of corrosion. The best way to check the integrity of the front frame rails and shell is to clean it up and then evaluate it. I'm also looking past the crusty surface, maybe optomisticaly, but a judgment from just these pics can't be made with any degree of accuracy. I would at least pull the motor allowing you easier access and better attention to detail. Start cleaning, scraping, wire wheeling, sanding and use whatever other means you have at your disposal. Then put up some more pics, but by the time you have done this it will be obvious to you what you need to do. The good thing about this aproach is, it doesn't cost you much, you will become familiar with the car and be able to come up with a game plan.

Interesting - no sail panel emblems, no radio, no clock, but it states "fully reclining contoured buckets".

After thinking about it, $4325 would be about right with add ons. I am remembering the employee price of $3100. for a '69 Super Bee with only one option, a four speed. It's nice to see prices written on old brochures, to put things in perspective.

Year to year should not make a difference. This question was just asked recently. A simple search (lift points) turned this up. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29162&highlight=lift+points

Excellent find Mike! It has what I assume to be the price of $4325. written on it. That's interesting, but seems to be a high price compared to the prices of the day that I remember.

I should have explained better. Also, living here in a border town, the Greyhound Depot in Detroit Michigan is less than 2 miles from the Greyhound Depot in Windsor Ontario which makes it easy for me to ship or recieve in either country.

That's right, they don't, that's why I said US or Canada. They don't deal with Customs.

Ditto on the convenience of Greyhound for larger awkward packages. They originate from and go to just about anywhere in the US or Canada. They will call the phone number you provide them and immediately let you know when your package has arrived at the depot and you just pick it up. Reasonably priced too. If you are in a hurry for something, they have a "next bus out" service they provide for quaranteed fastest delivery.

I have a serious uncurable condition called "rimatism", and can't find anything negative to say about any combination you could come up with there. I'd keep them all and change them up when the urge beckons. Wheels, especially vintage ones are like paint colors on a Z. Wait a week and you will have a new favorite.:classic:

There is no need to apologize for a rant about Ebay. We have all felt the need at one time or another. Until Ebay evolves into an entity that holds sellers financially acountable for gross misrepresentation of items we will continue to be disapointed occasionally, with no recourse. For me so far, it has all balanced out, meaning I have been outright ripped off and recieved nothing, recieved items not as described or wrong for the application, or items recieved were not in the condition touted. On the other hand I have got some fantastic deals, found things I consider rare and couldn't find anywhere else and have used the contacts I have made with some sellers pay off at a later date, just by letting them know what I am looking for. Not perfect, but still the best game in town for me. I consider this a Z challenged area and for me to find parts means driving several hours one way with no garantee what I'll find when I get there. So, if I can't find something online from a dealer, that pretty much leaves Ebay. It's been years since I have sold on Ebay but had no problems doing so. I described the items as best I could with pics showing any flaws, if any and never had a complaint from a buyer. As far as Z parts go, it is a lot more costly for us guys that are having parts shipped from the USA. The increased cost of shipping, brokerage fees and taxes can price most items right off the scale. A typical item costing $100.00 can end up costing twice that by the time I recieve it here! Starting to sound like another rant?

http://cgi.ebay.com/1970s-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Body-Massager_W0QQitemZ170194578828QQihZ007QQcategoryZ19066QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem "not as good as sitting in the seat and driving a Z-but close!" One of these and a warm fire is the best we can hope for.