geezer

I am certain that I have located PN#55417-E4100 and also have an explanation why it faded out of existance. Thanks Mike, yes on the microfiche page 92-4 it is key #15. Mike, you are the perfect guy to verify this theory I have. I went to my garage and located PN 55411-E4100 assy-member differential mounting front. It is key #14 on page 92-4 of the microfiche. By flipping it upside down you can see PN 55417-E4100 washer-special D (all 4 needed). They are actually spotwelded to the assembly. My thought is that on the very early cars they were not welded to the assembly, but were separate special washers. This is something you could possibly verify at some point in the future. Anyhow Dan I don't think you are missing anything. Just make sure the hex nuts are accounted for because they are not listed on the microfiche either.

I put the microfiche in my reader and studied page 92-4. PN #55417-E4100 washer-special D is not shown. Also not shown is the nut that goes with the hex bolt (key #20). If you look at the bolt, corresponding washers and visualize the hex nut which is not shown, it is fairly easy to see how a D washer would fit under the hex nut. I will look through my hardware which I labeled and cataloged to see if I have the "special D Washers". Of the hex bolts and washers Key # 20, # 21, #22, 4 of each were used up to 07/73 and they were changed as of 08/73. My microfiche is the latest revision (Dec 79) and there is no further mention of PN #55417-E4100 or replacement. I think it is just a flat washer filed flat on the side to fit. PS - It is key # 15 on my microfiche, not 13 like in Mike's hardcopy, or did you mistype?

HaHa - That's another one.. your getting old if you recognize George Goebel. I was a rural hic that never heard of butch wax, but then again I didn't know what a curb was till I was 13.

You are getting old if you remember the milkman coming with a horse drawn cart. You are getting old if you remember using an Xray machine when trying on a new pair of shoes. You are getting old if you remember the Doctor coming to the house. You are getting old if you remember being able to buy a good used car for $50.00, with the plates on it already and insurance was only a suggestion. You are getting old if you completed your schooling before there was any such thing as "fast food". You are getting old if you were the first one on the block with a reverb unit in your car. You are getting old if you had a telephone made out of wood.

Don't leave us hangin'...gotta tell us about this "butch wax". I'm getting scarey images burnt in my brain!

I have searched the archives and have not come up with an answer to this question. Was the original early 5 speed shift knob, that was used in markets other than North America the same size as the 4 speed knob we got here? I have read that the replacement 4 speed knobs are larger than the original 4 speed knobs. Is this also true of the 5 speed knobs or were the original 5 speed knobs larger originally? In these pics an original 4 speed knob is compared with a genuine Nissan 5 speed replacement knob. I haven't seen a comparison pic of an original 5 speed knob and a replacement 5 speed knob anywhere.

Well said Stephen, but that is the kind of advise that more times than not, is not taken seriously until you've done it at least once or twice. Years later when you look back at the wasted time and money that you have sunk into a daily driver for a limited amount of bragging rights and the predicaments you put yourself into, it will seem like rock solid advise. You should be able to refer to your daily driver, and use the word reliable in the same sentence. 30 years ago I wouldn't even take the time to read this. I was spending too much time piecing my cars back together and walking because my driver was up on blocks again after breaking the weakest link once again.

I think it would take nothing less than a reprieve from the Governor to save this unfortunate victim of neglect & lost paper. It certainly doesn't look like the seller would be any help picking up the paper trail. He just wants it gone for what he can get. Unfortunate, but after being listed twice on Ebay with such low offers, I think it will end up in a JY.

Greddy, perhaps you could send them some pics of what your car looks like now. Maybe they will follow up with an explanation of what occurred to result in what is shown in the photo.

Since both of these warning systems send a ground signal in order for the warning light to come on, it is concievable either or both could be wired into the circuit at the same time. Then you would have the best of both worlds. When the light came on you would then have to determine if the Brake Master Cylinder has a low fluid level, or if the Brake Warning Switch is warning of a pressure differential in the front or rear brake circuits. Either way, it would warn of a problem that needs attention.

That does narrow it down. 1. No gound detected = good, no fault with front & rear brake circuit and the switch seems normal. 2. I take it you had a ground on the black wire? The voltage readings you had on the yellow wire are not unusual because it will be dependant on RPM. 3. The green/yellow stripe wire having a ground with the Park Brake applied is normal. This narrows it down to only two possibilities that I can think of. TXZ1956 could very well have nailed it from the get go attributing the problem to a bad relay, but I prefer to track down a problem without spending money on parts you may not need. The Brake Warning Lamp Check Relay is "normaly open", meaning if it was defective it could remain closed causing the light to recieve a constant ground. The only other way a constant ground could cause the light to stay lit would be, a short to ground on the green/yellow stripe or the yellow wires. To test the relay, disconnect the green/yellow stripe wire from the relay and use your test probe on the relay where you removed the wire and check for ground. If you have a ground, the relay is defective. If there was no ground and the light is still on, there is a short to ground on the green/yellow stripe wire.

That's good news Brian. Are you going with 904 white on the rear spoiler also? It would be a good time to add a front spook also.

I have been in that situation before, where I had bid short of the reserve, but substantialy more than was shown at the end of the auction. Does the seller ever find out what your maximum bid was?

An expensive curiosity. That would be a better Ebay ad if there were a few shots included that you could see the entire car from different vantage points, instead of all partial views. I still don't have a clear image of it in my mind.

That looks to be Part No. C4366-0501P. The description is "reservoir-(oil with grease)". No. 25 in the illustration.

Here are the changes made up to and including 1975. I only see 1 mounting change. In the first illustration, the mounting points are C,D&E. For the 1975 280z, the forward mounting © was moved from the center tube to the front tube and was mounted to the transmission. I haven't found any info for the years following 1975.

Old Thread 1975 wiring diagram http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/75_280z_wiring.pdf

I stored these 340 exhaust manifolds after using POR 15 Manifold Grey on them about 6 years ago. Not as nice as the Eastwood dressing because it hides some of the raw detail and texture of the cast iron. They look darker in actuality (camera flash). I have used it on transmission cases as well and it is a nice look for that purpose and is still holding up well.

That sure looks like a realistic new, raw cast iron finish in the pic Zulaytr. I don't see how a judge could knock points for that. Really, what could be done any better? I wonder how that finish would hold up over time on a car that is regularly driven, subjected to heat cycles?

Some of the most memorable road trips I've been on were to retrieve cars long distance. I don't believe we have saved any money in lieu of having them shipped but we have a lot more fun and have seen a lot of country and met some great people. If you can swing getting the time freed up I recommend doing your own hauling. This car can be saved but would be a long term commitment with a high price tag.

That is a well documented restoration, WOW over 300 pics, and they depict only a thin slice of what went into that car. I can't imagine how many man hours and how much green it took to complete. Very impressive!

Welcome Z Good 1. That is a subject that has been covered many times and there is a wealth of information on this subject in the archives. Use the search function with the appropriate key words. You should find more than you wanted to know. Of coarse some members are pretty proud of the results they have had and will tell you their experiences. Good Luck

Good question for someone with judging experience. I know people who have used the ceramic coating process and then painted over with an airbrush to come up with a realistic look. You are right, the cast iron pieces weren't too pretty straight from the factory.