geezer

The high bid remained at $7050. and did not meet the reserve. I did contact the seller for verification of the engine number. The Question: Good day: I would like to know if the engine number is the same as on the data plate. You do not state if this is the original engine or not. Thank you, Ron The Response: Good question Ron, I never thought to look, as other than a few items, never had any mechanical work done. Wish I had now, as the car is probably worth more with the matching #. The car is some distance away secure in my warehouse and I won't be able to check until tomorrow. So, assume not, and if they do match, all the better. Thanks for your interest, Stewart My impression...typical smoke & mirror statement. Not the answer that would coax a higher bid out of me if I was bidding. I can't believe one of the bidders did not ask this question. It will be interesting to see if he follows up with a definitive answer or not. Somehow I don't think so.

"I am unequivocally %100 sure, and would bet my mother's life on it." Your mother should be proud!

"taxation without representation" would be Washington DC.

Well, I could be wrong once again, and maybe I'm believing what I read between the lines. Yes, "obvious rebuild, no paperwork" was one indicator. This is a very seasoned seller, who knows the game and will use every technique in his arsenal of sales experience. It for sure isn't the first vehicle that could be considered a "classic" that he has put up for sale. He knows the benefit of a car with "matching numbers" and the increased value of such. He would certainly have touted that point to his advantage. But, your right, this is just what I believe to be the case. Take that for what it's worth.

Not really Walter. I can relate to your sentiments, having spent my entire life in the rustbelt. Rust free sure is something that appeals to us. It's just that this car appears to have been beautified skin deep and had the potential to be a much better car, if it was done differently. Now it's not economically feasible to most of us.

I would like to hear the official Ford reasoning behind this. It seems like they will be generating a lot of negative PR. Do they think they can afford to lose customer loyalty by alienating their biggest fans?

One point about that oil pan. It is not the original engine in the car.

This car would have made a nice starting point for a nice driver, but I agree there was a lot of wasted cash put into it and it is an amature refresh at best. There is no attention to detail. It is obvious to me that it has been dressed up for a quick sale. I think the underlining problems that existed before a nickle was spent on it are just hidden. I could finish that rear panel blindfolded better than that. I figured most of us would see this the same way and conclude it is way over priced, considering what still should be done to it. What I am trying to get a grip on is, why do these cars seem to sell easily when there are obvious better deals out there. It won't surprise me a bit to see it meet the reserve.

What are your thoughts on this Z? An inappropriately dressed pig with lipstick or a suitable driver worthy of the asking price? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FABULOUS-FLORIDA-RED-240Z-80-PHOTOS-4-SPEED-SWEET_W0QQitemZ300188257198QQihZ020QQcategoryZ6187QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

You can cut out any bad/perforated metal and remove all rust by whatever means you decide on and cut your own patch pieces. Then find someone with a portable 110V MIG welder that will come weld it up for you. Make sure you disconnect the (-) battery cable to prevent electrical wiring/component damage while welding. Although the rust damage does not appear to be that extensive, I would investigate further. I would remove the cowl screen and get a good look at the hidden areas higher up the cowl. Look it over real good behind the dash also. Try to find where water has possibly entered. It is actually not too bad and you have the foresight and means to nip it in the bud. If you find yourself on this side of the lake I'll give you my old MIG welder. Good Luck

Yes, sorry for corrupting this thread.

Without the correct numbered block it will never be more than a really nice driver, but by the way the bidding has gone already, there is a lot of interest even if it is lacking in many respects.

Some of you guys are setting the bar pretty high! Absolutely gorgeous Jim. All you need now is the time, good weather and the open road. Back when I first started shaving I was in love with those Keystones. Congrats & enjoy!!

Anyone been watching this Series 1? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FABULOUS-FLORIDA-RED-240Z-80-PHOTOS-4-SPEED-SWEET_W0QQitemZ300188257198QQihZ020QQcategoryZ6187QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem A real nice start. It wouldn't surprise me if it goes with a BIN also.

HaHa! Caught myself leaning into the turns in my computer chair!

There must be something special about those nuts Kats. I noticed that in the 1973-12 HS30 Sports Option Parts catalog that they cost almost 3 times as much as the others listed. Is it just because of the special dimensions or perhaps the material they are made from? I also noticed there was only one SPACER-lock nut 48635-E7200 listed (what I refered to as a washer). This SPACER must have been used with all the nuts listed? The spacers are captive on the set of nuts I have.

"And Z432's magnesium wheel needs special nut(not special??)40224-E4200. Is this same shape of the one which is used for common slotted wheel?" Hi Kats - I have a NOS set of lug nuts (Nissan Part Number 40224-R4670) to show the difference with your 40224-E4200 set. The obvious difference would be the lack of a washer on yours. Also, in place of the washer the base is quite a bit more substantial. What is the reason for not using a washer on the magnesium wheels? Thanks for the geat display of photos to brighten our day.

Without a clear title the only potential buyers will be those with a mind to part it out for a quick buck.

I've never used an electric soldering gun for autobody leading, but it sounds like an easy way to tackle the small holes that 7277 is dealing with. Cheaper than buying a mig welder. Good tip (pun intended).

There is no real advantage using lead instead of a polyester filler for repairs such as this. Plastic is so much easier and will look just as good when finished. A few of the things you have to contend with using lead are heat warpage, acid removal before paint prep and the equipment needed to do the job properly. Then there are the obvious health concerns using lead. I would fill the holes with a mig welder and a brass/copper backing plate (works well) then a thin coat of filler...done! OK, I tried to talk you out of it but if you insist on using this method there are a few tutorial articles on the net. I could tell you how I do it but, you can no longer get the materials I still have. I am not familiar with the use of the lead/tin alloys sold today. I am still using a can of tinning solution that is 25 years old. I have heard from others that the lead available today isn't any harder to use, just different. You will need tinning, a wooden paddle for laying on the lead, a trough for heating/holding it, good body files for shaping it, a solution to neutralize the acid. After you are done with all that, you will probably still need a thin layer of filler or high build primer to block it out. Depends how good you get it layed on and filed.

I've heard that the reserve is set at $1000.00.

I'd recommend getting yourself a good wiring diagram that is specific to your year Z I got one like Rockr69 pointed out because my eyes aren't what they used to be. What an improvement over trying to see the factory diagram with a magnifying glass. I don't have one for a '76 though. In order to diagnose an electrical problem you first should have a thorough understanding of how the system operates. There is no better way to do this than studying the wiring diagrams and understanding the components involved in a particular circuit. Visually check the connectors & harness in this circuit. Try gently manipulating the connectors to expose a temporary power outage or loose or poor connection due to corrosion. On cars this old it never hurts to check the integrity of the terminals and clean them. If nothing obvious turns up, use a digital multimeter set on the resistance function to first do a : Continuity Check (open in the circuit) 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable 2. Start at one end of the circuit and work your way to the other end ( at the fuse block in this case) 3. Connect 1 probe to the fuse block on the load side 4. Check each subsequent point along the circuit with the other probe This should point out a blown fuse, loose or corroded connector or a break in a wire. Or use the Voltage Check method (battery connected) 1. Switch the multimeter to the voltage function 2. Connect one probe to a known good ground 3. Begin at one end of the circuit and work your way to the other end checking for the proper voltage Shorts With the negative battery cable disconnected you can test for shorts in the circuit by connecting one probe of your multimeter (set on the resistance setting) to a good ground and the other probe on each segment of the circuit, broken down to increments by disconnecting connectors or relays. The goal is to isolate the circuit in order to narrow the search for a short. The beep indicating continuity will point out a short. Grounds I can’t stress enough the importance of ground connections. Dirty or corroded connections are the cause of unwanted resistance, severely changing the way a circuit operates. These are just a few basic tips that can be used on just about any circuit on these cars. As I said earlier the first thing you need is a good understanding of the circuit in question and that means a good wiring diagram. Good Luck PS - Avoid using your test light instead of a digital multimeter if there is any chance of letting the smoke out of computers or sensitive controlers.

Engine number 4808 does appear to be a long way off the mark, but there are a number of possible scenarios why. I believe the numbers were stamped on the cowls before the shells were assembled, in a scheduled sequence and the ID plates were not stamped with the engine number until much later before final assembly. One possibility is, the car was delayed in the system for one reason or another before reaching the motor line, resulting in a higher numbered engine being installed. A very common occurance back then, I believe.

Glad to see you signed on after an unfortunate accident. That's a good sign, but watch yourself carefully for the next few days. I've had problems that weren't apparent at first after an accident. Just take care of you...cars are just things.

Very nice Randy. You must wake up thinking...Life is Good! Try using that link in your signature.