geezer

Virginia is for lovers...I'm in love with your cars!

This might help... Just noticed this chart only covers to 1978. I'll look for the other one.

My mistake, I only have one Type A four speed left. It came from a parted out early '71 "series 1". It has the red L but not the red blotch. Another mystery to solve.... Interesting question Arne. As far as a correct restoration, the "L" wouldn't matter because a judge couldn't see it by getting down on one knee, but the red blotch on yours could be seen from the engine compartment. It's probably something not on a judge's checklist anyhow.

Nice pics! It looks to be a good fitment all round. Most systems need some amount of tweaking. Are you going to port match the header to the head before final fitment? If you want the full benefit of the header with the least restriction, it is well worth the small amount of time it takes to do it.

I bought some things from him earlier and am glad I did, but he doesn't have much left that I would be interested in. I got the tail lights and they are flawless. He was a good guy to buy from. Shipping was quick.

I have two Type A 4 speeds stored away. One is a 10/70 build & the other is from an early '71. When I get over to that garage I'll be sure to check for the red markings. It does seem to be a little more than coincidence for both of yours to be similarily marked.

I know this is an old thread, but thought I would use it to tack on my experiences with MIG welders (no pun intended). I have a few of them at my disposal, and they each serve their purpose. Moreso than any other restoration or project I've done, the need has arisen for a MIG welder that is better suited for working with the thin sheet metal of the Z. Next stop...the local welding supply shop. The guys manning the counter are very knowledgable and totaly understood where I was coming from. There were two machines in particular that were recommended. One was the Lincoln 140C which is a 120V continuous voltage unit and the second machine was the Millermatic 140, also 120V continuous voltage. These machines both have precise adjustments for more delicate welding projects. The only drawback for me was the 20% duty cycle which I thought would slow me down, but am told that's not the case. I chose the Millermatic 140, only because of the years of trouble free, reliable service of previous Miller machines I've used. I was assured the Lincoln would perform just as well. My new Millermatic 140 won't take the place of my other welders but will be a welcome addition especially when working with thin metal.

Frank, That is truly an intriguing story. Almost like stepping into a time machine. You will most certainly enjoy the freshening up of this car, like no other! You also have the knack of story telling and we never tire of hearing a good Z saga. Thanks for sharing.

Ron, I am at the pointof ignoring my family looking at what your sent...I imagine I will be up waaaaaay past bed time tonight! Excellent stuf!!!! Will Will, That's something I'm curious about. That last bit I sent required more than 1 DVD without layering. With all the manuals & other documents you intend to include, do you have an idea of the size of this project? I know Mike had reservations about compressing. If not it looks like it will be a DVD set, or more than one DVD project.

PM sent Peter. I'll get it back to you as soon as possible & send Will the PDF format (or is JPEG better for these?). I think he needs to compare the different versions to determine which to use for the project. Thanks

Hi Peter, If this is a publication that Will doesn't have yet and is desired for the DVD project, I can scan it and send it ahead to Will. You would just need to mail it to me. I can have it mailed back to you the day after recieving it. I haven't heard of this particular catalog being mentioned for the project before. He will let you know and then you can PM me if you need help scanning it.

Hi Dan, It will make for a great hobby when you are done with work. Until then you have time to locate the parts you need and plan the project. There are lots of us here doing the same thing. This site has a search function that is invaluable for finding information. You probably know that already. Put up some pics when you get a chance.

Running another ignition hot wire is the easy fix, but I would still try to locate the break in the supply wire before it possibly shorts out on you, like E mentioned earlier. I can see your dilemna though. Not having a wire diagram that corresponds to the colors of your actual harness is nothing short of frustrating, especially if you want to avoid unwrapping the harness. Let us know what you find and how you fixed it.

I just read through this thread one more time and found the answer to the only question I had. In post #4 you say the other ground comes from the distribution block. I missed that previously. It doesn't matter. It's just that I'm not familiar with a '72 and didn't know if the ground derived from a distribution block (which would warn of low pressure) or a fluid level switch on the master cylinder reservoir. It doesn't change my evaluation and I'm stickin' to it!:laugh: Good Luck

Allow me to jump in here and try to simplify the solution. Instead of trying to follow the routing of the R/L or whatever color your 12V feed wire is to this light, look at this from a different perspective. Two conditions must be met to light the bulb. You need a 12V power source which will be constant as long as the key is in the ignition run position only. Otherwise, whenever the handbrake was applied, the light would remain on. Next you need a ground supplied. This ground is supplied by two different methods. The first is by completing the ground path by applying the handbrake. The other is a ground supplied by what is called in the Haynes manual as a "BRAKE IN". I believe that is short for what should be called a BRAKE WARNING INDICATOR SWITCH. I agree with Nissanman's assessment. It would be either a low fluid level switch or a pressure fail lead. Now to find the problem. First, with the key in the on position check for 12V with your tester. If it's not there you can either track down the break in the circuit (my first choice), or supply another ignition on power source. If you have the 12V to the light and it does not work, the ground is at fault. A simple continuity check on the ground supplied by the handbrake switch or the other ground source which could be a fluid level switch or pressure fail switch, will be needed. The odds of both ground sources being defective are less likely than the problem being with the 12V ignition on feed. Check that first. I know how to find and fix these wiring problems, but have a harder time explaining it. I hope I was able to help.

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=552&password= Stephen linked it in post #4.

What I find helpful is looking through the gallery pics for inspiration and ideas. Different people have different tastes and ideas of what looks good, so in the end you will choose what is appealing to you. I change my mind every week, because they look good in every color of the rainbow. Unless you are a purist, then you only have the original colors to choose from. That's still a tough choice for me.

Thanks for getting these early pics out for us "wish we were there" guys. I have looked forward to this convention for many months even though I knew I wouldn't be there. We are all there in spirit I suppose. Carl, the BRE BAJA Z is looking great! Can't wait for more pics!

The other pic of Brian working on his other car may have turned up!

A couple of questions come to mind here. How do you get "cracks all over the thing" and have it confined to only the gel coat? Did you do like most of us and buy it long before this anticipated paint job? If it was recently bought, I think I would either return it, if it's a manufacturing defect or deal with the shipper if damaged in transit (if insured). Most of my fiberglass experience comes from repairing fiberglass boats. Normally I see damage to more than just the gelcoat when dealing with stress cracks. Usually it entails digging out the crack in a v fashion and flaring out the repair with glass & resin. It is possible to strengthen the repair from the backside of a spoiler also. It can be labour intensive and it's too bad you have to go through this with a new part. The body shop did the right thing pointing it out to you before doing anything. It's not their fault and I give them credit for not just temporarily covering it up with paint. I don't think they will charge an extra $500 to prep it, that seems excessive.

Tommo, I doubt it will be of any use on plastic. Either the product won't cure properly or the plastic will melt/distort. I'm curious, what are the prep directions for use on metal? I hope you can get a pic posted here of your results.

The Nissan part number for the screw-on oil filter is 15208-65011. You should be able to cross reference with that number for using other brands.

What really tips the scales towards belt separation (for me) is the comment about it not occurring at night. That seems to indicate a temperature variance, which has a dramatic effect on tires. Everything else would be a constant.

Maybe we need a general concensus from the majority? Put me down as having had enough of this trouble maker who does nothing to benefit this club or further the hobby. He has gone from being slightly amusing to downright obnoxious.

Persuading an OEM seat skin it will fit an adjustable lumbar equiped Mitsubishi seat.