geezer

You should check the internal filters and clean them if they are clogged. Both types, F1/R1 & F2/R2 have an internal filter.

Welcome to the site. Are you kidding me? 26,000 original miles? I don't think I could bring myself to change a thing on this car if it's in this good of a condition. I think it would be worth your while to learn all you can about these dreaded flat tops. Others have got then to run well without problems. The fear of the unknown & the lack of money to be made servicing them have forced many to swap them out, maybe prematurely, taking the easy way out. Just depends how concerned you are with originality and do you have the mindset & patients to learn about and maintain these carbs?

I noticed that part number before when I was reading this. I don't think you will have a problem. http://www.magshooterz.com/R200Info.htm

Thanks Kats. Just when I didn't think I was going to learn anything new today. You will probably continue to notice discreet differences, and I look forward to seeing them. I did not have a problem with Acrobat opening the owners.pdf.

Ahaha!!...Here it is nailed on the fence behind the BBQ. It's upside down now because someone's always yellin'...FLIP the CHICKEN!! Pic won't load.

Maybe someone knows how many different codes there were for S30 keys in 1973? I bet there weren't more than 30 different ones.

Congrats on finding the key! It's fun finding stuff in cars. All I found in my Z was a cast iron chicken & a Chuck E Cheese token.:disappoin I kinda like the chicken.

For being stored in the barn for 26 years your car has faired well. Just a matter of stopping the rust and protecting it, before it becomes necessary to replace metal. Those are nice pics. I wish people selling their Z's would include pics of this type of these areas. Good luck finding someone to shoot the color. Should be a real nice car once again.

What was the cause of the fire? Good thing you extinguished it quickly. An onboard extinguisher should be on your shopping list also.

Here's an exerpt from the FSM and a link to a great tutorial from one of our own. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15177&highlight=door+glass

If you happen to read this thread Dean, Good luck on the sale of your Z. I know how much work went into this car and how nice it turned out. I think also you have been bit and will do up another before long.

Well, tutima is now not a registered user and all the items he had listed are gone. Looks like we may never know what happened.

Welcome Mark, Sure put up the Ebay link. These guys have sharp eyes and can point out quite a bit from a few pics. Ahaha...tell the wife it's an obsessive hobby...no never mind... she will find out.:classic:

Hey Zak, I can tell you what I know and what my experiences have been. Brazing is an effective way to fill small pin holes and join very thin metal by flowing the braze over it. The difficulty arises when proper adhesion has not been achieved, leaving gaps or small pinholes. That's the keyword here..ADHESION. This is true also for all subsequent coatings used over the repair area. Any stress cracking, pitting or crevice corrosion will allow water and air penetration to corrode the metal. You did sandblast the area before brazing so it should have flowed on nicely. I haven't done any brazing for quite some time now but I have done more than my share. If you can, sandblast the brazed areas again before using any surface treatments. This will texture the braze and aid in the adhesion of the epoxy sealer. You want to remove any surface contaminations. There are many products available to treat the metal before sealing. I use one called Metal Prep by Alchem. After wiping this on, you have to wash it off completely with water. I have been using a non-sanding epoxy primer from PPG (DP90). This protective coating is all you will need until you turn it over to the body shop. Water can't penetrate this primer. The way to avoid problems like you are hearing about is to totally encapsulate the repair area on both sides, so nothing is exposed to air/water. If the brazing job adhered good you should have no problems. I never had any problems with braze and the coatings I used at the time were not as good as what is available today. This is how I would do it. Good Luck!

When I noticed the cancelations this morning I contacted the seller and asked what's up. This was his response. Hi, thank you for watching my Auction. Someone get into my auction , then mest up my auction. I am not try to selling fake stuffs. It is 100% guarantee too. Thank you Tutima07 Normally when this happens the auction is cancelled, is it not? I was the bidder who came in second and am wondering if a second chance offer is coming. If that happens I would agree something smells and will decline.

Anyone else been watching this set on Ebay? Wonder what happened? All the bidders cancelled their bids?:surprised

I researched my options and went with the ceramic from JetHot. I had them coated inside & outside hoping to reduce underhood temperatures and reduce heat transfer to the intake manifold. Don't know how effective it is yet because they are still in a cardboard box.

I am looking forward to the day I sign on and see a new avatar for hls30.com!

When I built mine I was a little leary of the rear also and resorted to overkill. Next time I wouldn't worry about it, but if you want to see it, look in my gallery.

ahaha..that's pretty good Jason. I'm thinking about the old prices and your thinking about old ladies!

Great post E. You do have a way with words and get your point across very effectively. Hopefully what you and others have said will be taken to heart by the original poster and anyone else who can't see the "wrong". Myself, I don't believe in using the ignore feature in this case. Not yet. Why shut someone out until it is proven they are incapable of changing their mind or view of what they have done. I have known many kids who started with the wrong foot forward and given the time, attention and yes the understanding, turned out to be people of character that today I am proud to say I know. I would rather help someone up before I knock them down!

I know a lot of people who could never be their own TRUE friend...or was that... be their "own grandpa"? LOL

I have seen dry ice blasting done on a large scale for at least 10 years now. It was being used to clean off the build up of paint on skid bars and paint lines. They used full body suits and air fed helmets for protection. If you have ever seen the paint sludge that accumilates in a high volume painting operation you could appreciate how effective the dry ice is. As mentioned the extreemly low temperatures turns even sticky paint sludge brittle enough to simply fall off. I posed this same question when I was considering using this method to clean my Weber carburetors, but I didn't find anyone who did dry ice blasting on a small scale with more finess than the heavy equipment I've seen.

Will, I have finished scanning all the material & manuals you wanted. It will be coming your way next week, but don't waste any time looking at it until after Daytona!