geezer

Be careful the next car you buy from them may be watching your every move and reporting back to their mother ship. BTW has any body figured out the correct color of the rear finishing panel? Got pics of their mother ship? I have heard it is the exact color of the rear finishing panel.

Sweet!! You are one lucky guy. Busy too, from what we see in the pics. Enjoy!

Here's a crude diagram I drew up so my son would know how I wired his electric fans. You can use this for one or two fans. Choose your own thermostat(s) switch temperature rating. This will make it fully automatic without the need for a manual switch.

Smoking? - 10W30:smoke: I thought I'd bring up a possibility that wasn't mentioned yet. It doesn't take a lot of torque to twist and bind up linkage when you have a motor mount break loose. It sure would be on my list of things to check, considering the circumstances described. Even if it's on the bottom of my list, looking is free.

It might be a good idea to check and make sure your motor mounts and trans mount are intact. I can't think of anything other than bad mounts causing a sudden rise in RPM's. Coming down hard on a dip in the road with bad mounts could have caused a combination of clutch slippage and a sudden rise in RPM's as you describe. When you find the answer to this mystery make sure you post what you found. Welcome to the forum. Cambridge Custom Chrome is where I get my plating done.

The alternator output wire should make a direct run from the alternator to the battery side of the shutoff switch. It does not pass through the diode. You said yours runs to a terminal block which also feeds the starter solenoid. You can't run it this way if you are using a rear mounted cutoff switch. The diode should be inline on the (excite wire) going to the alternator. I don't have the diagram here, but this wire normally comes from the alternator warning light. It will be a lighter gauge wire. The 4 AWG wire (charge/output) coming from the alternator must be a straight run, not connected to anything but the battery side of the cutoff switch. One other thing you need to find out about is the brake lights remaining on. Could this be related to the PO installed CC? Read through this link. It might explain better than I can without seeing it in person. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html The only thing different in this link would be way you have to isolate the alternator charge wire when you wire a cutoff switch into the system.

Have a great 4th guys & gals!! Yeah, be carefull where it's dry...and Bill don't let the Mrs. float away...maybe use the handcuffsLOL

With "almost" all the contents of the house being destroyed, does this include any photos you may have had, or service documents stating milage over a period of years? Hemmings is probably your best bet for the purpose of reviewing recent or past sale prices. Other than that, if you did not establish a replacement value with your insurer prior to this event, they will follow their playbook and you will be SOL. You will have to negotiate with them and reach a settlement. I have a family member who went through this same process in Michigan with his XKE. He retained ownership of the wreakage and accepted a cash settlement.

I think you probably had to move the seat up and lean forward to get the front wheels on the ground in order to steer.

Gotta love a S20 powered 432 FairladyZ. SNAP!!... OK I woke up, I'll settle for anything that runs right about now.

I can't think of anything to add to the responses, other than after sitting overnight, all the minute air bubbles you might not have noticed or removed will have come together and you should bleed the system again.

There's a lot to be said about functionality and a timeless design such as the BRE spook. It is my preference but I don't dislike the modern designs.

McKrack – If you are intent on restoring a ’69 build S30, I will offer a few suggestions. -Don’t be enticed by a low number alone. Fact is, there are many more of these cars in need of restoration than there are correct available parts. That is assuming you don’t compromise on originality. -You should start by acquiring the parts you know you will need. I am referring to ’69 build specific parts. This is the most time consuming aspect of the restoration. You will have to get your ear to the ground and develop a network with like minded individuals, if you can. Even though you will be competing for many of the same pieces on some occasions, in the long run it will be beneficial. Be prepared to spend years searching. Also be prepared to lay out the coin on a moments notice. Consider it a long term investment, liquid assets if you will. Even if the restoration doesn’t ever come about, there will be a demand for these parts. -The correct body/shell components, although most are not ’69 build specific are becoming hard to come by. I know how hard it was to find inner rocker stampings and the rear roll pan panel. Other likely needed pieces will be the floor pans, outer rockers, outer half wheel tub, quarters, front frame, floor support sections and other misc. pieces. It will take a skilled metal man to graft some of these pieces also. Even though we are blessed with a supplier for good floor pan replacement pieces, they need a lot of refining for this level of restoration. Most candidates you find for restoration will likely need most of these pieces or extensive reconstruction, even if it is not immediately evident. -This gives you time to network and find the right car to begin with. I would put more emphasis on locating one with most of the original pieces intact and not focus on the number. When you find one acceptable, let it be known to the owner that you are a serious potentential buyer and have an interest. Don't make an impulse buy. You have expressed the opinion that these are "once in a lifetime opportunities". I believe time is on your side.

The only thing I've noticed is, over a period of several years the paint will age differently because of the different effect heat has on metal & glass.

I find that frozen bolts break loose the best after soaking with Kroil, but have had great results when using PB Blaster and heat from a propane torch, when possible. It will be just the initial cracking loose. Don't be afraid to use some leverage with an extended pipe or johnson bar, and apply some muscle.

Good to hear you have it fixed. Yesterday was the first time I seen MikeW's tutorial. Very well done indeed! That's what I find amazing about this site. I learn or see something new everytime I sign on. Now, if I could only remember it all.

OK, Now that were on the same page, you should follow up on Superfunk's suggestion first. Sounds logical to me.

Jason, I want to make sure we are talking about the same thing here. Is this a Safety Cutoff Switch mounted on the rear/outside of the vehicle to comply with sanctioned rules or mearly a switch to kill all power from the battery when the car is not in use? If used for racing, the alternator output wire must be on the battery side of the cutoff switch, as I show in that miserable example of a diagram. Here's why. This is a safety feature that insures all circuits are shut down in case of a mishap. Clearly marked with ON/OFF and easily accessable by a second party, regardless of the drivers ability to turn off the ignition. Even though the Alternator charge wire remains connected to the battery in this configuration, it is dead ended at the alternator because the field sense has been eliminated, thus no output. If it is just a switch used for simply disconnecting the battery, then that's going to involve some looking into. I'll try to help if thats the case.

I checked how mine is wired. It is not nessesary to wire it this way to shut the engine down with the ignition switch (as long as your diode is on correctly). It is nessesary to shut down all circuits with the cutoff switch though and depending what class your running in, it is a requirement.

I woke up out of a sound sleep thinking about this. Your diode may be OK. Check anyhow. I'll check tomorrow but if I remember right I had to run my alternator charge wire all the way to the back to the cutoff switch. The reason being, all residual current and all circuits are then shut down. I don't have a schematic that fits your case, but you will be able to figure out which is your alternator output wire. About a 4AWG in size. Good Luck

First thing you should check is the diode you installed. Sounds like you may have it backwards. The band stripe on the end of the diode should be the end going to the alternator. The diode only allows current to flow in one direction. I run S1 alts on my Mopars and have made this mistake before, with the same problem exhibited.

Smart seller in my opinion. Look at the exposure these cars have recieved for a minimal advertising cost. And if someone bites..BONUS!

These cars most always look better in the pictures. Having someone check it out would be a waste of time though, unless the seller is willing to drop his price substantially. Be patient and wait for the right one to come along. For that amount of money I think you can do much better.

E's post is right on I believe. Car alarm installers have many options available to them, depending on how complex of a system they want to create. Now that you have removed it, you will have to do some basic troubleshooting, with the aid of a wiring schematic. It is not possible to help you any further, without doing this first and then posting pics & descriptions of what you find. We could come up with a dozen things to look for, but that is not the "fix".

E's post is right on I believe. Car alarm installers have many options available to them, depending on how complex of a system they want to create. Now that you have removed it, you will have to do some basic troubleshooting, with the aid of a wiring schematic. It is not possible to help you any further, without doing this first and then posting pics & descriptions of what you find. We could come up a dozen things to look for, but that is not the "fix".