geezer

Sounds like you need The Trunk Monkey. http://www.funnyclipcentral.com/content/trunkmonkey.php Sorry Randy, couldn't restrain myself.:nervous:

It probably is registered as a '71. Mine is a 10/70, #11730 sold & registered as a '70 and I think one of the last built & registered in '70.

Link to article is in Post #5

"I'll sell you mine if it's the same one for $10.00" The offer from Dave sure looks good now...doesn't it! Glad you got the problem solved quickly & locally just the same.

Nice job! Maybe a flange coming off the header pipes would be a good idea. They won't just slide off that easily after a while, especially if they are clamped. You could still drop it in one piece easy enough since you have good support at the halfway point, at the X-crossover. For transmission removal you would be able to undo it at the flange and swing it over and out of the way enough without dropping it completely. Keep us posted on how you finish it up.

Link didn't attach. Item #120105953713

This car looks familiar, has it been listed before?

Here's the link. http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/table_of_contents.htm

'70-'78 are all the same. You can buy them direct from the factory (Tabco) if the ones on Ebay go for too much.

Watched your videos a couple of times now. Beautiful car and it must be a blast driving it. Thanks for sharing them with us!

I'm sure you will find all you need to know from the members here or by doing a simple search. There was one thing that came to mind when reading your post. When you put the lid back on after use, make sure you clean it off real good first. I had one can that I had to cut the lid off to get it open again. It was bonded to the lid and impossible to separate. I suppose that is a testimonial on how good this product is. They make great products and I swear by them. I first used it about 8 years ago and those jobs are still rust free. There are 3 autobody supply outlets within a few miles of me and they all carry it. Oh yeah...dress appropriatley...hard to get off skin!

It looks to be a well used relic. The cancel posts were pulled. Even with a magnifying glass, all I can make for the signature is David.......? Needs work, if anyone want to redo it shoot me a PM. I'll let it go cheap.

This Momo came on my Z when I bought it. It's not going to be used by me and I thought since you guys know something about them, I'd ask your opinion. It needs to be refinished & rewrapped. There is some rust on the bezel around the horn button and a few paint chips but no damage otherwise. Just wondering if it's worthwhile doing.

Excellent job Jim!! You should be proud of it and it will be every bit as beautiful as it was all those years ago for sure. It will be great to read about all you learned as it will help us all.

Looking good! This is one of my favorite stages of a restoration, when you can see the results of all the hard work that went into it before paint. When does the clear coat go on?

zbane - You've got a good eye to spot the blue Z in that pic! I zoomed in and studied it for a while but still wasn't sure what it was, but it does look to be in perfect restored condition with no rust!

First, make sure your standoffs are adjusted properly at the same height with no binding whatsoever. It's important to work from one direction when adjusting carburator linkage. Once you have the rotatator rod operating all three carbs smoothly in unison, then you move on to your stock piece. Ideally it should be mounted straight back to the firewall with no angle at all. No angle up & down, or side to side. After mounting the bracket to achieve this you can then make up the adjustment on the rod with your red ball cup connectors. It might be nessesary to shorten or lengthen this rod, depending where you end up in relation to the bellcrank. One more thing. Make sure your motor mounts and trany mounts are good and where they belong first. PS - Had to come back to say that is real purdy 240ZGL!!

I totally agree with Mark & Jon. There is no need to use the stock factory linkage on a GTO replica. A cable will be much better. I use cables on all my mopar projects. It's easy and trouble free. The only reason I'm using the factory linkage on my Z, which has triple Weber DCOE 45's is for the nostalgia factor. I'm only using parts that were available during the same time period, when the car was new. When I say "mock up",that means I test fitted everthing going on the car before starting the restoration which is now underway and moving quickly. Maybe you want to stay lowtech also?

When I mocked mine up I used this to go by and it worked fine, but it was a carb car to start with.

No sorry. There is nothing left locally here either. Everything has to be shipped when I find what I need. I'm looking for a lower rad support myself and all my inquiries locally have failed. I didn't realize it was the same in your neck of the woods. Try posting in the Classifieds, one of our members might be able to help. What else have you found out about putting your car back in order?

"It's not a matter of using one or the other, both are used on the car."" I think everyone is clear on that. I also have a pair of kick plates that do not have DATSUN embossed on them.

Interesting theory on the early scuff plates. Maybe someone else with an early car can chime in. Mine are original, steel covered in vinyl but is a 10/70. I have never heard of them made from aluminum.