geezer

Congrats Jeremy - Does this mean, one day your Z will literaly "fly"? :classic: Good Luck with the new job!

You can't go wrong following Carl's advise here. I have installed a lot of glass/gasket assemblies of this type. At the factory a thin skim layer of adhesive was run around the perimeter of the glass. It has the consistancy of contact cement and it is allowed to dry. The gasket which was preheated in a hot box is then given the same treatment in the appropriate places. The gasket is then put in place on the glass. Here is where my method parts way. Route the cotton 1/4" cord around the gasket and leave enough rope at the top after the overlap to get a grip on. Without the moulding in place the rubber has a greater amount of flexability, making the assembly fall into place much easier without putting any undue stress on the glass when the cord is pulled out. (when the cord is slowly pulled out make sure you have someone applying pressure on the outside about a foot behind the cord being removed) This is the time to put a sealer between the glass and gasket (outside only). This does make it harder now to install the mouldings. That is why specialty tools are made. If you do not have the proper tools or confidence to do this yourself, you should let a pro do it. I use a product called IsoPar from the Dodge dealership. It is liberaly brushed on the rubber before installing the mouldings. It lubricates and cleans off easily and will not affect your paint or trim. The moulding tool is then placed over the moulding and pulled ahead. The moulding falls right into place spreading the rubber and tightening the rubber to the glass. Heres a pic of the only gasket type tools I use. The moulding tool is the one of particular interest.

Hey Tom - The body really is in pretty good shape. The frame & floor was previously replaced but the floor pans need to be replaced again just because it sat outside so long and the water got in. The fenders, doors, hood & hatch only need to be prepped & painted. The rear quarters were replaced, but not up to my standards. It was a case of the previous owner doing the best he could with what he had. Easy fix for me. I had pics from when I bought it in my gallery, but they got wiped out after the server change. I'll put them back up soon.

Had a volunteer do a great polishing job on the stainless trim on the windshield and hatch glass before removal. Cut the rubber and pitched the glass. I previously lucked out and found a flawless set of OEM replacements. Removed the hood, hatch, doors, fenders and most every thing in the engine compartment. I left the engine sitting in place, just to keep it out of my way for now. I'm working out of the smaller garage because it is easier to heat. Today, the dash and remaining interior pieces come out. Tommorow, I hope to drop the suspension. I dont have a spindle pin removing tool so that might slow me down a bit.

Beautiful Mike! Looks like a matter of crossing the t's and dotting the i's now. What have you decided to do with the color match problem on the cones? I think it would be better to just spray them in place.

JimmyZ has got it down! That is an excellent article, my hat is off to you. The only thing I could think of adding is pointing out the many years of practice it takes to become proficient in both welding and body/paint. I've been doing it for more than 40 years, both as a hobbiest and a few years professionaly, and made a lot of mistakes along the way. Then I realized there was more money in industrial painting. I have never regreted laying out the cash for good equipment. It's been put to good use. There is no better feeling than knowing you did it all yourself. As a kid I started out with oxy/acetelene using coat hangers as rods. My dad built our first arc welder out of florescent light ballasts. Things have come a long way since then. Butt welding with a MIG is just second nature now. Looking forward to reading the "more to come". Great job Jimmy.

Got an early start today, doing some disassembly work in preparation of mounting the Z on the rotissary and sandblasting. Found out a few things about the cars previous life also. I experimented first on paint removal. Using a razor blade I removed two previous coats of paint. This is what surprised me. The bottom coat was a cheap 1 step enamel. The second coat was a base coat/clear coat. Left behind was a good coat of epoxy primer/sealer. I found that the rear quarters had been replaced also. The only problem rust areas are where water got in because of being left outside with missing weatherstripping and the door latches removed. Frame was nicely beefed up years ago, but I will be replacing the floorpans. Also, my curiosity got the better of me, so I removed the intake and Webers and the exhaust header. I then mocked up the triple carb setup with the Trust header that was intended to go on a right hand drive Fairlady Z. I had heard before that there would be a steering shaft problem. There is no problem at all. The rest of the twice pipe system will also be a simple bolt on.

Hi Dan - 'The brand name is Denalt. The number on the label is 5001. It works great on everything except Epoxy. I'm going to get another one. It has a long shelf life.

That is one stunning looking car! Groundhogs shadow or not, springs not going to come fast enough for you, for sure. And I sure like that white interior a lot better then the white on the ground right now.

Congratulations!...You do nice work there Will!...but you didn't build this one yourself...:classic: Hope all are doing well...aint life grand!?

I just checked one that was on my watch list and went off. Only the winning bidder's I.D. was revealed.

I worked with a guy named Les ****ens who took more than his share of digs. Automatic censor keeps bleeping out this guy's real name.

Hi Dennis - Welcome aboard. I joined up not to long ago and have learned more about these cars than I thought possible. There's a great group of guys that know their stuff, helping answer questions whenever they can. Don't worry too much, us old guys can still fix a thing or two.

I thought it would be a good idea to start a thread to track what I'm up to. Although I bought this car on the Fourth of July of last year, I have just begun to work on it. Up till now, because of an arm injury I have only worked on individual pieces and sub assemblies. At least this gave me the opportunity to do a lot of research, gather up the missing pieces needed and come up with a build plan which still isn't definite. I have restored dozens of cars over a period of many years and this is the first Z. This one is going to be fun. It's also the first car I've brought home that my wife actually takes an interest in. She thinks its "cute". I have made several excursions on parts quests and have accummulated truck loads of parts because I bought the whole lot, whether I needed them all or not. When the restoration is done I will offer these parts here first. So far my plan amounts to this. What would I be bringing home if I walked into a dealership in the early 70's and could order a 240Z, with options that were available in the early years, here and elsewhere in the world, along with some choice aftermarket parts. I will be doing some other changes where safety and comfort is a concern, but try to keep the original appeal these cars had when I first encountered them back in 1970. This is the Ebay description of the car. I had been waiting for a good one to come along to restore for a few years. Probably, this wasn't seen by many because I jumped on it. I contacted the seller, had a short conversation with him, hit the Buy it Now, paid for it and arranged a pickup date within minutes. It truly is a diamond in the rough. Any suggestions or tips along the way will be greatly appreciated. I will post pics as I go.

I don't know if this will benefit anyone or not. I was in Rona Building Supply here yesterday and noticed a pallet of paint stripper. It comes in 5 gal. cans or 18.9 liters. They are clearing out the old skull & cross bone inventory. I bought a can ($29.95 CDN) brought it home and tried it out. It works as good as any of the aircraft stripper I've previously used. Just thought I'd throw it out there. If anyone wants some let me know.

Arne - Can you determine what it is made out of. I know that doesn't matter if someone finds a source for them. Just curious

Will - Look at post #64. I am keeping track of how many are wanted. As of now we are at 15.

With all the responses to date, we are at 12 boots wanted.