geezer

That will work Steve. Jim has a point about debris collecting. Especially in an area with pine needles. But being the guy that installed it, you know what to watch out for. It's easy enough to back flush also. I only have one question...What are you using the other 21 1/2' for??

WOW! - That was a lot of reading. Nuff said about that subject. It never ceases to amaze me how a pretty simple question and answer session can snowball into a 360 degree hailstorm. But that's how things get done. Anyhow, I learned everything I need to know (at least about shifters). Thanks for all the help guys.

I think your right Marty. With mine, about 3/8" of metal removed is enough. It would be easy enough change the pivot point where it works best. I still need chrome though. It's got bite marks that will still show.

Hows about JOKERS not Queens!!

I would like to see that too. I can see how changing the pivot point can shorten up the throw.

Bill - Have you checked the condition of all the light sockets and changed out the bulbs. A corroded socket or bad (not nessessarily burnt) bulb can cause this. If you have ruled that out, your going to have to isolate the system and start doing continuity checks. Hope you have a wiring diagram.

Hi Jon - I just checked. The pivot hole hasn't been altered on this one and the shifter doesn't come close to hitting the inside of the socket or anything else. It comes up dead nuts in the center of the floor opening. When I got the car the console was not in it. The inner boot was mounted and the outer boot was laying loose. Because of the rather extreem offset of the shifter, it did stress the inner boot somewhat. It actually is a great design but I was just leary of it being a welded piece. I consider myself to be a good welder and although I didn't do this one, it is done well. Do you think I should just send it out for chrome and not worry about a break occuring?

Thanks Alan - Your response prompted me to pull the transmission out and find out for sure what it is. I have not started the engine since I bought the car, so that made it impossible (for me anyways) to identify it, or even check the shift pattern. I was relying on what the PO told me. He told me it was from the Fairlady Z he parted out long ago, and the transmission was the one from the performance catalogue. Later on, that added to my confusion. You could interpret that statement many ways. He went on in my conversation with him about the absolute perfection of the drivetrain and urged me to try his setup before restoring the car. He said it was the perfect autocross car. He was a good salesman. The subject of shift patterns never came up. Now that it's out of the car and I checked it, your right about adding that S. I have to figure out the ratios, and the diff. ratio too. Another thing somebody might know about is the JDM Trust header and twice pipes that came with this car but not installed. Has anyone tried to put them in a left hand drive? Wow, they are built of some hefty stuff! Thanks

Mine never had any mouldings on it when I got the car. I don't plan on putting any on either. That will make for one less thing to worry about. As far as appearance, I think they look good either way, with or without. What ever you decide, will be accepted by almost everyone I think because we have always seen them both ways.

Thanks Carl - I did read that article earlier but discounted it because that shifter didn't look like my modified one. It was later, on another site that I found the part number and just didn't make the connection. Now that you have pointed it out, I went out to the garage and took a better look. That's it alright, now I just need to find one. Thanks

I found out the shift kit I need is 99996-E3030. I've got a feeling this is going to be a tough one to find. Does anyone have one, or a picture of one. This is the modified one I have that works well, just doesn't look nice and I don't trust the weld.

I have been using the Search Function trying to find when the F5C71B was first available. It is a close ratio, overdrive unit that was a dealer option on the Fairlady Z. Also, what shifter was originally used with this. The modified one I have works fine, but I would rather have the proper one.

I did some more measurements and came to a decision. The Mitsubishi seats are so close to my original 240Z seats in every aspect. I think a proffessional upholsterer will be able to fit the Z skins without too much difficulty. I am trying to keep the original look but gain in comfort level.

I am using a type B 5 speed with a S-shaped shifter in a series 1. It takes the regular boot, but the forward part of the opening needs to be trimmed slightly. My shifter is modified, not stock.

Too bad the resolution isn't better on this great shot.

Every day I learn something new about the 240Z I'm restoring. The single most appealing thing to me is the shear simplicity of it all. Not much in the way of Bells & Whistles. But it captures everything that defines a true sports car. Easy to learn about (but you never stop learning) and easy to work on. Guess you don't stop doing that either! They just grow on you. I love them all, but just happen to have a 240Z. I am one of the members here that had the pleasure of driving one in 1970. I was smitten from day one. I didn't buy one back then, but my friend did. He made a regular habit of trading off his Z, so he could ride my bike. I got the better end of that arrangement. I guess it just takes me back to precious memories.

That's great news Randy. It will be like Christmas all over again (including the bills :eek:)). Don't get the coffee & donuts too close to the car! :classic: Looking forward to seeing the pics.

Stephen - I'm glad you brought this subject up. Just one more of the things I've been mulling over. First off, do you or anyone else know the dimensions off hand, of the originals? I have mine stored elsewhere. I had a pair of seats from a 1999 Misubishi Eclipse given to me. I was told they were a good fit for the 240Z. I just never got around to comparing them to confirm that yet. I measured them: - The base is 20 1/2" at the widest point. - The back is 20" at the widest point. - Total height to the top of the back with the brackets 35" It doesn't look like the base could be lowered much.They have full tilt and slide. They are very comfortable with excellent support.

It all depends on what your expectations are. You say, you would like a little more power out of it. Triples will do that for you, at a price. You had better become an expert just to bring them to the point where they work well together and be able to maintain peak performance. Otherwise you can count on a fair share of downtime and frustration. Or you can pay someone to do this for you (not cheap). Even then expect downtime. They are not in the least bit, practical for a daily driver. Another thing that will come into play, is all the other parts you will want and need to complete the package, in order to reap the benefits. There really is no end to it. Now, if it's not a daily driver, I say great, go for it, learn all you can by reading books and talking to others running similar setups and have fun with it.

You could be right on both counts. I have designed and built some custom units. Everything from motion detection, RF signaling devices to a current silent system that will automatically call a list of predetermined cell or phone numbers. The one you have there, seems to be someone's homemade (adapted) version of whatever they had in mind. Normally, the unit you have found, would not have an aligator clip on it, but instead, would have been routed through a simple hidden toggle switch and ultimately connected to a door (or more than 1 door) switch. Anyone opening the door before disarming the ground signal with the toggle switch would set off the alarm. The "capacitor" type module you found going to the yellow wire...is it 2 legged? Of course, I haven't seen or tested this thing so don't put too much stock in what I've said.

I can elaborate some, if you want to test out my theory. With your 12V feed (fused), connect to the red wire, connect the yellow to a test light and ground the test light. The light should turn on (and I suspect pulsate). You can instead, just check for continuity from the yellow & red wire. Now ground the black wire and the light should turn off. The black wire is supplying a ground to the control side of the relay which in turn when connected will not allow continuity to the yellow wire. The yellow wire then can be used to control the 12V control side of another relay, or supply 12V to anything when the aligator clip is removed. This device probable has another feature built in to create a 12V pulse. Have fun!

A bit tough to decifer from the picture, but I'll venture a guess. It could be a normally closed relay which could be used to flash the lights and pulse the horn relay. The black wire with the aligator clip was probably used to arm it. Try feeding it a fused power supply and also, do a continuity test. It looks to be a pretty simple device. Any one else?

I have been playing catch up, on the discussions, research and work put into this effort so far. With the combined efforts of Arne, Carl & others, all of us will be able to make a better informed decision. I'm not ready for struts & springs yet but it has been just one more question in the back of my mind. Thanks to this forum and the input from everyone it will be easier to figure out. In a previous thread this week a member resurrected the debate on Tokico shocks/springs. Questions will continue to be asked about the nature of Tokico's products because of the lower price. Everyone saves a buck whenever they can. Personally, to me, the price would be a secondary factor. First I want to achieve the desired results. I'm sure many will be very happy using them and get the results they want. Just as many others will swear by their particular combination. In that thread Jeff Grauer offered to do a spring rate test on the springs supplied in the Tokico HPK 251 Kit. He is going to do this in a few weeks from now and then post his findings.

Dean - You would be able to see the tell-tale signs, if the vinyl was changed out. My guess is, it was originally white. I can see your dilema (dogs & white vinyl don't mix). These days a white interior is even more stunning to me because of the rarity, and the ladies love it too, as long as it is clean. If it was mine I would go white, but I don't have a dog anymore. You can take precautions to protect it no matter what color you choose. Tough choice, you can't leave your best friend behind.

Will - In my case, JDM Optional Parts not for my model or year. But after looking the choices over again I think you do have that covered with 4. Another case of my fingers outpacing my brain. :stupid: