geezer

OK, I had a look at the wiring diagram. I only have one for my '70. I drew up a quick example of how the park light circuit works in an attempt to get you on the right track. I just hope the wire colors don't throw you off. Could be different. I have a combination switch of unknown origin laying loose here that I did a continuity check on. It works the same as my diagram shows. The pic that you posted is not the same. The way your pic is orientated, the G/W wire should be in the upper left position and the G wire should be directly below it on the left. The answers to the questions you asked in the last post are: 1 - only if the solder runs to ground somehow 2 - only if the insulation has been compromised 3 - no 3 - yes, because you are only triggering the relays with the switch now Anyhow, try to get yourself back to square one before you "fixed" anything and try diagnosing the problem again with what you now know. Keep us posted, good luck!

Because you have a Painless wiring harness installed by a previous owner I supplied a generic diagram showing how the headlight relays would be typically connected. It may or may not coincide with what you actually have. It was meant as just a guideline. I have checked your Profile and reread your 4 posts to find what year and model car you are working on and came up empty. No big deal, but this information will be helpful. The aftermarket wiring alone presents a great deal of mystery for anyone trying to decifer how the circuits were designed/connected by the PO. You will have to spend the time to "define" the circuits. When you get your multimeter you can then start mapping out your circuits by doing continuity tests. Only after having the circuits drawn out so you can understand them, can you begin to troubleshoot a problem with them. Also, the factory service manual (FSM) complete with the wiring diagram would be good to have. There is a link where you can download one free. Maybe someone else can figure out what happened, but myself, without having the car present, I need much more info.

It looks like a PO tried to exert his authority trying to remove them. The holes were likely drilled trying to back off the shoes?

That was the same with me and I also thought it is a nice feature to have on this site enabling us to share a brief description with each other. I corrected my information as it was jumbled also. It appears things were just moved around from someone unfamiliar with the spreadsheet attempting to add data. I didn't see any signs of intentional tampering.

That's the reality! And there's nothing like the common sense of a good women to keep us from having too many Zs... Nah, what am I saying.:stupid: HaHa! The real problem is, after making the drive I'd probably find a bunch of early Z guys camped in the sellers backyard!

Leave the fuse out, isolating each side of the circuit, to narrow your search. Use a test light connected to a 12V power source. Use the probe to locate where the short to ground is occurring. By unplugging the relay from the circuit you can further isolate sections of the circuit making it easier to pinpoint the short. If the test light glows, the circuit is still shorted to ground. It's never too hard to find, as long as you can define the entire circuit. The relay could possibly be the culprit. If you have no more short to ground (the test light doesn't glow) after removing it, the relay was either shorted or you need to continue testing the circuit beyond the relay. What did you find when you tested pins 85 & 86 at the relays? Do the relays click when you turn on either the low or high beams? We need more info in order to diagnose. At this point we don't know if the control side of the circuit is at fault or the battery feed. Edit: A couple of after thoughts. Remove both relays and check for continuity to the fuse box using a multimeter. Let us know what pin it coincides with on the relay. Instead of using a test light as previously instructed, you can use a multimeter instead. I just don't know what equipment you have.

Congrats, on the selling of your '72. I was considering making the drive to see this car, if the weather stays good, but then thought better of it, having too many projects now, that are not getting done fast enough. The temptation is great though. It is not far from me and my car trailer is empty. Sombody, please handcuff me to a pipe or something!

Pics from Ebay ad.

Worth a look. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-1970-240z-very-low-number-rare_W0QQitemZ120523894756QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item1c0fc8afe4

Did you take a look at Rick Mears career? It seems to me he did the whole gamut. The desert win might take some research being somewhat overshadowed by his other accomplishments but that's where he started out, along with a string of dirt track wins, a USAC roadcourse win at Brands Hatch in England, 3 national CART championships which included several road course wins, 4 time Indianapolis 500 winner, a win at Pikes Peak (I know ..don't count) but in my opinion, hands down, he still fits your criteria to a T. I think if you delve into the late '50s and early '60s a few lesser known/remembered racers with wins on a less grand scale, could also possibly fill the bill. You are correct, racers were much more diversified then they are today. Edit: http://sportsillustrated.cnn.com/vault/article/magazine/MAG1126113/2/index.htm

If no problem is found at the combination switch, this may help. I'm not sure who to credit for this wiring diagram but it is typical of what you can expect to find. I think you should revisit what you have recently previously done first. Chances are this new problem is related and will be easily found. The solder connections become tired and corrupted after so many years of high amperage being routed through them before the relays were added.

Here is the most comprehensive wheel weight listing I have found. http://www.wheelweights.net/

I did some research on the Thunderbird Products exhaust system for the 240Z. The system in post #29 is the only one I found for the 240Z but there were several other systems for most other Datsun models. The product line doesn't seem to have lived past the 240Z era. All but the product name seems to have been discontinued long before being aquired by Pertronix. Thunderbird Products was originally a division of Ermie Immerso Enterprises. Then, I got side tracked reading about Ermie Immerso himself. Very interesting read. I got the Ermie Immerso Enterprises lead from this list of Datsun Accessory Manufacturers.

Here are the descriptions that belong with the pics below for a vintage Thunderbird system, mentioned but not yet on your list Arne. "Thunderbird's 240-Z header scavenges the six cylinders into two intermediary pipes before entering the collector. Provisions have been made for all emission control fittings. Installation hardware included." "Thunderbird Products designed this muffler for use either with a header system or the stock exhaust. It is a straight-through design with smart twin tailpipes. For the Z-cars". Taken from "Petersen's Complete Book of Datsun".

I was wondering about that too. $190 with caps, lugs and stems seems reasonable to me, but we don't really know enough at this point to make any kind of comparison. I don't think they will want to undermine their sales of the Libre lookalikes by producing replica ARE LeMans wheels as well. Time will tell.

How hard can it be to just pull the alternator, clean it up, paint the pulley without taking it off of the alternator, then reinstall it? No point removing the pulley if your not equipt to do so.

There is a thread on HybridZ discussing these wheels. They are quoting a price of $190 each. That includes the center caps, lugs and valve stems. There is not very much information available yet. If you are like me, you gotta love 'em. I've already got too many sets of wheels now though and was trying to forget about these. Can't wait to see a set on a Z! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=158010&highlight=vto+wheels

Cool! Another set of twins!

Lots of great input and pics! The panoramic mirrors are nice too., but I prefer the period correct aspect of the Wink. I don't remember the panoramic style being around as long. From what everyone has said, I have decided to go ahead and order the 4 panel Wink for now, then see how I can custom reconfigure it to fit as high and as close to the windshield as possible and still maintain adjustability. I am also thinking of making some custom sun visors designed to co-habitate with the Wink. I don't plan on having a roll bar hoop so that will allow me to mount it higher. I want to do this without permanently altering anything on the car.

I figured that it would be a more popular item for track use, but I think it would be nice to custom build one to fit the contour of the Z, making it look like it belongs there, in a street car. Just another half baked idea I had. I think I understand what you mean about it being annoying Jon. It does bother me driving with the sun visors down when not needed, but some of these are only 1 1/2" tall, but I guess in order to work properly, have to be mounted low enough.

I have seen these mirrors for sale since the early '70s but never have seen one in person mounted in a car. Below one is pictured in the book "How to Modify Datsun engines & chassis" and mounted in a 510. The thought came to me as I was reading Arne's tint strip group buy thread. I thought the mirrors would tuck up nicely and not be as noticeable from the outside of the car with such a strip. The Wink mirrors come in 4 or 5 panel configurations, maybe others too, depending on the vehicle. Some are plastic, some are made from billet aluminum. Ebay has them listed all the time. Has anyone here driven a car using these mirrors? I used to think they were kind of cheesy but they are growing on me and I'm just wondering if they are hard to adjust to or add any visual benefits?

Great job! That has to be the most highly visable Z on the planet!

It's good that the word has gotten out on the breakin and theft, but what took so long? I have faith in the Z community doing the right thing. Nothing mentioned is Z specific though. Hopefully someone will turn the thief/thieves in, before buying stolen goods for cheap.

Ahhh...duct tape, the handyman's secret weapon! I notice in the pics he is prepared for a possible return visit by the bear, keeping his rifle closeby. Very resourceful fellow. I guess you have to be in that environment. Hey BooBoo...hows about we go get some picnic baskets?:classic:

You did good buying that one! I have bought several items from that seller and never had any problems, his shipping is very reasonable and the parts are always better than I was expecting to get. Congrats and good for you! I will just make due with what I have for now, until one magically appears somewhere at a price I can live with, or maybe I'll try whittling one out of wood.