geezer

Enrique my friend, there is much you do not understand about this process and the impression I am getting is your mind is closed to anything that does not fit into the preconceived ideas that you have. My post stands as is. If you would like me to elaborate on the logic behind my methods, I will, but please, do me the courtesy of not quoting me out of context, in a feeble attempt to discredit my post. I believe that my statements were quantified as being an alternative method with logical benefits, which I briefly explained. I really can’t consider what others find easier unless it is also done properly. Logic: I know that it comes as no surprise to you that the windshield is a crucial part of the vehicle’s structure. Even as far back as 40 years ago, substantial research and development data had been accumulated and put into use, in the engineering and building of these cars. It may seem unimportant or trivial to you but by installing the stainless trim strips before the assembly is seated correctly on the flange you are actually compromising the structural integrity of the car as designed. If the trim strip is installed before the assembly is properly seated, how is it then possible to “apply adhesive to the entire periphery”, as instructed in the FSM? When built, you can bet this was a production process etched in stone, which was followed to the letter at Nissan. The adhesive has to be applied when the windshield assembly is centered in its relaxed, final installed position. “Adhesive” is a descriptive word in itself, which gives us a hint of its purpose. It is not described as sealant, although it did perform double duty to an extent. You would find it very interesting to see the “process control” sheets that are used and have been for as long as I can remember which cover every assembly process. A great deal of expense is incurred to develop the proper methods used. A lot of money was also invested to drum these preconceived ideas into my head and I’m just passing it on to you for free. I really am not the least bit surprised what you tell me about the guy installing windshields for the Nissan dealership. I just feel sorry for the customers who never knew any better and believed his retoric. The tool is really very simple and I actually believe it is not even needed. The picture is self explanatory. It is just slightly wider than the stainless strips, holds the “lips” in an open position and allows the trim to fall into place. The tool doesn’t come into contact with the bright surface at all. If the rubber has been sufficiently heated and lubricated, it can be installed easy enough with only a blunt fiber stick. The corners of the trim are the most difficult to finesse but still only as difficult as the flexibility of the rubber makes it. As I started this post, referring to you as “my friend”, I truly do mean that and do also respect what you have to say, but in this case I am only trying to relay what I know and in the process hopefully prevent a broken windshield. You or anyone else can take it for what you think it is worth. PS-We both put our pants on one leg at a time but I don't pull my zipper up until they are on and everything is positioned correctly. Sorry buddy, couldn't help myself.

I think you and I represent the less touted point of view, as far as installing the stainless strips after the windshield is in. I have explained my methods before and here it is again. This is how Nissan originally did it and has outlined in the FSM. To me, it makes absolutely no sense to assemble the trim strip into the rubber weatherstrip before installing the glass. It only serves to add ridgity to the weatherstrip and is detrimental to the needed flexibility of the rubber. When it comes to stresses put on the glass during installation, why would you want to increase the likelihood of breaking the glass by restricting the free movement of the rubber? The methods used are of course an individual choice and it bothers me to no end when someone presents the method that worked for them as the only correct way to do this, or labels an alternate method as being wrong. This is just a personal observation, but to me the Nissan weatherstrip is a higher quality part that is easier to work with and garners a better end result that is clearly noticeable. Not to say that the Precision windshield gasket is all that bad or shouldn't be used. Just my preference. A few tips for a successful installation: The rope/cord used is important. A 1/4" cotton cord is the best type to use. It has a "grip" characteristic that is beneficial when it is pulled out while seating the rubber over the flange. I don't mean the grip with your hands, but the grip it has on the rubber, pulling it over the flange. A nylon rope is not as good for this purpose. Most start with the rope wound into the groove starting and finishing at the top but there is something to be said about some installers who prefer to reverse this to take advantage of gravity. Their view is, by starting at the bottom, the weight of the glass assembly helps to seat itself making it easier to finish when reaching the top. Again, personal preference. The single most important thing in my opinion, which has been mentioned by several already, is getting the rubber heated up enough to make it very pliable. It has to be heated thoroughly and sufficiently to retain enough flexibility to complete the entire installation. It's very important to get the windshield assembly seated on the flange, sealed and the trim strips installed all in one quick session, before the rubber has a chance to cool. It will cool somewhat just by the application of the lubricant used to facilitate the installation. Prior to installation, well positioned heat lamps are widely used for this today. In the past steam heated hot boxes were used in assembly plants. The best lubrication that I have used is Isopar. It is a solvent that has several characteristics that are useful for doing this job. It makes the rubber slippery as anything, doesn't have any adverse effect on paint, vinyl, skin etc. and cleans off easily. When seating the glass and installing the stainless trim, the combination of hot flexible rubber, a good lubricant and the proper tools will make the installation so much more manageable, even for a novice. In the pic, the tools I use are shown. The one that is of particular interest and the one that allows easy installation of the trim strip is in fact homemade. It was made to replace another made by Miller tools that I had for years. It is fashioned from a paint can opener and it works well. I wish I had a pic depicting its use but the best I can do is for now is describe it. It is inserted over the end of the trim strip and into the groove of the rubber so it is holding the "lips" open. Without putting any pressure or even touching it, the stainless strip is simply laid into the channel as the tool is drawn around the periphery, joinig the pieces as you go. I agree that if you are not comfortable doing this job or are worried about the glass breaking, a professional installer may be your best option. Most do make housecalls too. Good luck!

I remember seeing record players in cars. It wasn't a very popular thing to have, for obvious reasons and never caught on. Many records accidently became so warped from the heat that they became unuseable. What I do have fond memories of, is the lag time & hum of the old tube radios warming up and years later experimenting with reverb units on AM radios. I just gave my collection of 8 tracks to a friend who wants to restore them. Nobody has asked for my cassette stuff yet.:stupid: I like this new fangled retro stuff!

Thanks for clearing that up for me.

Here is another, you can use as a price reference Bonzi. This auction ended two weeks ago. My bid wasn't high enough to win. It sold for $140.25. here is the description from that auction and pics below. It came with more and was in great condition. I am a little leary of the condition of the lower chrome border on the one in nahurry's auction after seeing the radio installation in the pics in his gallery, that shows the control panel he is selling. Clearly not "NEW" anymore either. The ended Ebay auction: UP FOR BID IS A COMPLETE OEM (70-72) DATSUN 240Z DASHBOARD HEATER PANEL. IT IS IN BEAUTIFUL ORIGINAL CONDITION. ALL OF THE CHROME INCLUDING CENTER VENT, IS FULLY INTACT, BRIGHT AND CLEAR. THE PLASTIC HAS NO CRACKS. THE REAR CONTROL PLATING IS VERY NICE AND HAS NO RUST OR CORROSION. THE FAN BLOWER SWITCH HAS BEEN CLEANED, TESTED AND WORKS PERFECTLY. INCLUDED IS A NICE SET OF OEM CONTROL CABLES

Shhh..don't show that to these bandits, that's my high bid so far! The pics seem to contradict the description don't they? It looks like evidence of being mounted to me. Yep, its junk, don't bid on that.

You should have no issue with the actual switches then. I found the Nissan part number for the RH switch - 25360-B6000. Good to know it's available from MSA.

I just noticed a huge boo-boo in the wiring diagram in the 1970 FSM. I would be curious to see how the left hand door switch wiring is shown in the 1971 FSM or in the S30 Supplement manual's wiring diagram, that was issued in 1972 to correct/clarify the previous FSM wiring diagrams. The '70 FSM wiring diagram actually shows the ground derived from the left hand door switch going to the positive post of the ignition coil as well as the tachometer. The only part they got right was the ground supplied when the door is opened to the buzzer, via the steering lock switch. Anyhow In the Parts Catalog & the Microfiche two distinct switches are shown for use up to 12/71: Right Hand - 25360-89901 Left Hand - 25360-89910 From 01/72: There is not a Right Hand listed; only Left Hand - 25360-89910 is shown. I take that to mean the same switch is used for both sides. Am I correct in this assumption? Before I researched it or knew better, what they gave me at the Nissan dealer is shown below in the pic. Both switches are the same. They supply a ground when the door is opened. The second lead is soldered on the casing, so it provides a constant ground. The subtle difference Enrique mentioned doesn't exist on this set. I guess they are not going to work "correctly" in my '70. Stike's '71 needs the same switches as I do, in order to work as designed. Which leads me to ask, Stike, what are you replacing yours with?

Interesting how the lion image slightly changes between the two examples Chris has shown. In the second version the claws are extended, portraying a slightly more aggressive image.

I found one with that logo on it in my sack of knobs. I was always under the impression it was just something made up and sold by an aftermarket company.

Carl, I just noticed at the bottom of this page, the "Similar Thread", when back in May you were first contemplating doing this. I would like to give you some practical advise, that I believe any one of us would benefit from. It would make much more sense to simply repair any damaged wiring while going over your entire harness. Unless a connector is damaged and the terminals will not remain locked in, why replace them. Terminals can be looked at carefully for signs of corrosion and cleaned or replaced if nessesary. Look for deadheads, broken strands, corrosion traveling under the insulation, burned wires, etc. Point is, only replace what is nessesary. It would be nice to build a new harness with all new wire, but not really worth the time and expense to do it properly. Take advantage of products already available such as Dave's headlight relays, to eliminate the high amperage destructive heat. Proven winners that will save your wiring and switches. Keeping all grounds and connections free of corrosion is the single most important thing you could do on your own. Also, as part of the hobby, if you are serious about getting to know your cars electrical systems better, try studying the circuits in your car. By following a single circuit in a wiring diagram, you can draw it out separately with all components shown on a piece of paper and gain detailed knowledge of how everything works. Learn the actual location of these components and the routing used in the car. It is not so complicated when broken down into separate circuits. Study one a week in your spare time and before long you will have the confidence and knowhow to troubleshoot any electrical problem that comes up. I'm not saying you couldn't replace all the wiring, but it does entail much more than you realize and I think you would need more intimate knowledge of the electrical system. One of the most significant problems is one that you have already recognized. The shear expense of buying enough quality wire in the various colors as well as compounding that by the different gauges of wire needed would be enough to halt the project for me. Then add the cost of terminals and connectors. I once estimated what it would cost to reproduce a Z harness and came to the conclusion, no one would want to pay what I would have invested in it plus what I figured my time was worth. Maybe, if mass produced, they could be priced reasonably enough. It's good that you have a spare harness. You can go over it on a layout board and test/repair as needed while learning at the same time, but I would advise against replacing all the wires, unless you really feel you are up to the task and prepared to spend a few bucks doing it right. You don't want to be referred to as the dumbass PO that used all red 18ga wire for the entire wiring harness.

Carl, you need a method of quick reference and identification to keep track of all the connectors and their function in the big picture. Here is my suggestion for doing so. It is the easiest system I know of to follow. There are others. Most connectors are very easy to make drawings of. Each connector (which in this system includes both male & female ends) should be assigned an ID number and portrayed in the drawing as a mirror image, whenever possible. It could be a little more difficult to draw a mirror image when you have one connector, connected to an end device/accessory. In turn, all cavities in these connectors should be assigned a number, with both male & female ends sharing the same corresponding cavity numbers. The cavities that have a terminal & wire in them are called pin-outs. The pin-out information is then easily recorded, such as in the illustration below. In this example information box, it is not a mirror image, only the female side of the connector is shown and the end device is stated to be the "Power Distribution Center", but you get the idea. The ID number and color of the connector is shown. From left to right each occupied cavity is identified with a circuit number, wire gauge, color of wire, as well as the function. With a mirror image drawing there would need to be a separate information box for each the male & female connector end because of the tendency of wire colors or gauges changing, or the splicing in of a branch wire at the connector, etc. You can tack each of these connector drawings complete with the information boxes on the layout board, alongside of each actual connector. This puts the harness, connectors and all relevant information all in one handy-dandy location. You can repair, redesign, solder, replace wire or connectors, supply power, test, etc. all on the board, right up to completion. This is a similar method to what we used to use to retrofit or redesign harnesses to include new features destined for the following years models. This same layout board system could also be set up as a build jig, if someone had the mind to mass produce harnesses. Problem with that idea is the large number of variations in our Zs wiring harnesses, which would complicate the process substantially. I hope I explained this in a manner that is understood and it is just a suggestion for devising a system that works and makes sense of it all.

HaHa, I scared you? Well I really wasn't trying to, just giving you an indication of what has to be considered, or else you are wasting your time. You did say "rebuilding my wiring harness'', which is not quite as daunting as recreating or duplicating. I have had a lot of experience doing this in the past and I can give you a few pointers that will make it a little easier. First thing you need to do is create a layout board, that you can string your existing harness on, make notes, take pics, anything that helps you maintain the original configuration so that everything is in the proper place on reassembly. You don't want to end up with a lead that is too short to make the connection or worse yet, entirely in the wrong location. A sheet of drywall is great for this and you can write on it as well. Also the white is a great background for pics. When you do unwrap the individual harnesses, make note of how they are wound. Ideally you will start and finish your windings the same way. After unwrapping, it is best to use just enough masking tape or zip ties, to hold all the wires in their original position in the harness, yet allow you to inspect, measure, log notes, etc. This just makes it much easier to test, repair or replace each individual circuit. Hope this encourages you to go ahead with the project. Take some time to study the original connectors too. You need to learn how to work with these as well and should make a small investment in a few hand tools as well, that will last you a lifetime.

You will want to replace each individual wire with one suitable for that particular circuit. The most common electrical problems we have with our Zs, are the corrosion and the resulting high resistance, causing heat damage. If you are going through the trouble to replace the wiring, some preliminary research is in order. Each individual circuit will have a different amperage draw depending on the device being powered, the length of wire used, number of connectors, etc. This all has to be considered before you can just replace the wire. This could result in the need for several different gauges of wire being used. If for example your headlight circuit has been upgraded with relays, a smaller gauged wire could be used for the control side of the circuit because it only takes .25A to control the relay. If you search the net you will find charts that show the calculated resistance of various lengths of different gauge wire. If you can't find it, I have it here somewhere. Do some reading on SAE wire specs and the temperature ratings as well as chemical resistance. In short, you don't want to cheap out on wire and each circuit is designed for its specific use. You can look at each original circuit and study it to find out what it needs to be improved. It just is not as simple as your question makes it seem, but don't let that scare you. It sounds like a great winter project. If you need help with anything specific, just throw it out here. One of us will have an answer.

Here's an example from the "Classified" ads on this site. Easy to see where the nickname comes from.

For $10 I would want the lugs & center cap included. Pretty cool!

That's not very nice...funny though!

I agree with having the machine shop inspect and measure the block, head, crank, rods, etc. They usually do the preliminaries in a matter of minutes in your presence, while explaining what they are checking for. If any machine work is needed you are already there and can leave the parts with them. I have confidence in their assessment, their ability to take correct measurements and the ordering of the correct parts. I don't think I ever experienced an unreasonable markup for parts because they ordered them. You can still do the engine assembly yourself, if you have the nessesary tools. I've done it several times, successfully, both inline 6s and V8s. You gain more confidence each time and it's gratifying work, but I consider the services of the machine shop the secret of my success. I never met a group of more helpful guys either, if something comes up unexpected, they bend over backwards to help solve the problem. Nice to have a pro in your corner when you need them. I always considered it money well spent.

Yes, except measured from the other side (bottom). It's tricky to do because you have to measure from the projected centerline of a tapered hole. It took me a while to figure out where to measure from, to make sense of 105mm & 115mm. I would never pass a Nissan math test. I expected yours would be 115mm but over a period of 40 years who knows for sure what changes could have been made.

I wasn't expecting that. They seem to be the original size as well as being the shorter quick steer knuckles. Were the ball joints in good condition? Any slop in them? You now know what your options are. Buy a pair of 11mm ball joints to replace your originals if they need changing or buy a set of 14mm ball joints and get a set of knuckles to match. Of course, doing this you would also have to decide if you want to also find 105mm knuckles that fit the 14mm ball joints. So many choices. You could even opt for a set of the AZC short knuckles for lowered cars that have the bumpsteer correction built right in. Here's a pic of one. I have been trying to get accurate measurements of the knuckles I have on hand. I'm not quite sure how they go about measuring these center to center with tapered holes. The early short fabricated set I have seem to be 100mm. They must have been made up for track use, back in the day.

Actually, the measurements I want are from the steering knuckles, not the ball joints, only if they are original to your car. I am trying to determine if any of the early cars actually came with the 105mm short steering knuckle. All the evidence so far points to them only being an over the counter optional part. Finding a car with the short knuckles proves nothing but finding cars with the 115mm steering knuckles proves the point. First you have to determine what is on your car. If you have the later version 14mm ball joints you only need to replace them. I hear you can still get them from the dealer? If you have the original 12mm and you wish to change to 14mm, a trip to the boneyard is in order or get a set of knuckles from someone like me that has some lying around;). Just check the castelated nut to see what size ball joints you have. 1st pic is a better illustration than in the FSM showing the assembly. Just ignore the fact they show an unserviceable ball joint in its disassembled state. 2nd pic is extra set of 115mm steering knuckles that accept 14mm ball joints. also in this pic are a set of oddball fabricated 105mm steering knuckles that accept the early ball joints only.

Yeah, modify your car to your hearts content. No problem with that until it is deemed to be a safety hazard affecting everyones well being. I can picture this car bottoming out and pole vaulting into oncoming traffic. I guess it's up to law enforcement and not us to make the call, if it is street driven.

Part #68100-N3300 What a bummer! Hey I've got a crack in my monitor now...dang bug!

Regardless of the steering knuckles being the early or later type or being the shorter optioned length, the tapered holes that accept the tie rod ends are identical. I would agree that the 14mm updated version of the ball joint is a beefier part and likely to wear longer, but haven't heard of any failures attributed to the smaller size. As an aside: Why do the aftermarket companies supply a 11mm replacement? The Nissan originals are referred to as being 12mm. If your knuckles are the originals, could you post some pics with measurements after you remove them? I have a few questions of my own that I haven't been able to get answers to. I believe there are a few misconceptions about the early steering knuckles. When replacing the early ball joints, it is nessesary to change the steering knuckles along with them as a set, if updating to the 14mm version. Or, you can still buy the early ball joints. There is a recent thread about the availability of them. I bought a set to use with a set of custom built short steering knuckles.

John, are you confusing differences between the ball joints & knuckles on cars preceeding HLS30-07985? Other than that, I am unaware of any differences for the steering side bar assembly (Nissan given name for tie rod end). There is a superceeded part number in the parts catalog but it is undated without any explanation given. One thing to note is the error made in the FSM. Here is the TSB and described "paste on page", to explain that. As far as knowing if they are shot, by grasping by the tire & wheel while off the ground and shaking back & forth, any significant wear will be noticed.