geezer

I haven't yet but am planning on reading about peoples results. http://forum.caswellplating.com/

Tomo - Have you tried asking questions on the Eastwood garage forum? The Caswell site has a forum also. Any plating problems you are experiencing, probably has been encountered and solved by these guys. I started reading years ago about these home use barrel plating systems and came to the conclusion that it was just easier and not much more expensive, to send it out and let the pros do it. I don't know if that is the case today or not. I did buy several pieces from Norm Murphy at Zeddsaver and although beautifully done, it is an expensive way to get your cadmium & zinc plating done. Shipping cross country both ways is the deal breaker. There doesn't seem to be anyone doing cadmium or zinc plating local to me anymore. Seeing the great results Dave has achieved is encouraging and maybe a home plating system is worth another look.

Don't be concerned about dissapointing anyone but yourself. No move has to be permanent. In your lifetime you are likely to relocate several times. Good luck and keep the thread alive with updates. Just out of curiosity, how many miles have you logged on this venture so far?

If you want to remain "color correct", choose from these available color combinations for 1972. Since no records were kept or supplied by Nissan, you are free to do so, as long as it is done properly as a complete color change with no tell tale signs. We won't tell anyone either. Notice that silver is not one of the choices though, but gray metalic is.

It looks and sounds to be well worth the asking price, especially for someone who is not afraid of the rust repair that will inevitably be uncovered. It will make a great drive while you refresh project for someone. I'd be very tempted if it was local to me... (sorry that's an involuntary speech problem caused by the Z disease). Thanks for taking the time to check it out and take the pics.

Hello Allstate?... Hello...HELLO... ANYONE THERE?

Also, none of the shelf wear sometimes associated with "NOS". Kind of like opening up a minature time capsule. Congrats!

It is an emission control device used for '70 - '73 models called a Flow Guide Valve. Here is a simple test proceedure. Now that you know what it is called, a simple search is possible showing it has been discussed a few times. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/search.php?searchid=824449

Not the dumbest thing I've ever done, but definitely on the list. I was changing the differential on my Mopar after successfully scrambling it while doing burnouts one afternoon, for no particular reason other than to see what would break first. Anyhow, there is an access hole in between the wheel studs allowing you to remove the axle retaining nuts with a socket and extention on a ratchet. For whatever reason that I can't explain, I stuck my finger into that access hole past the second knuckle and quickly realized it wasn't coming back out. There was a semi sharp edge on the backside of the hole that locked down and dug into the skin on my finger when I tried to remove it. There wasn't a nice chamfer like on the front. It could have been worse I guess because a friend came by to see how the job was going and after much laughter, verbal abuse and the confirmation of me being the jackass of the month, I did get a lift to the hospital. It was bleeding pretty good by the time I showed up in Emergency with the axle. The Triage nurse didn't think my condition was life threatening enough, so I sat in the waiting room for a few hours with the axle on my lap. It was somewhat embarassing and difficult to come up with creative answers after being asked a dozen times..."what happened to you?" Eventually, after waiting my turn and then soaking in ice water for a half hour and the use of some kind of lubrication and a flexible nylon sleeve inserted around my finger I was at last free, if not any wiser.

Nope, good luck Clive! Dang I wouldn't want to try to keep up with you in the course of a day, week, month, whatever. You seem to be knocking off some great work, restorations in short order all the while keeping an ear to the ground. Love your car!

I would think other than higher voltages and differing possible causes of an abnormal waveform the traces would be very similar between conventional & electronic ignition. There isn't an example waveform for improper spring tension, only a mention concerning spikes above zero line. It says " If the breaker points bounce open slightly after they've closed, the small secondary induction which occurs at the point-close will be increased. This may impede full coil saturation at high speeds, resulting in low secondary voltage and consequent misfire." I really think this like pulling at straws and a moot point if several others things have checked out such as reluctor gap, pickup coil resistance or an indication of the ignition module not operating correctly, which it seems to. Solely on the lack of the nice cone shaped pattern that you would see in a normal pattern, I am really leaning towards a defective coil as being the culprit, just as Steve figured from the getgo. In the days of old we always had a spare of everything on the shelf to slave on, to speed the diagnosis of these problems.

I looked at all the examples of abnormal patterns and found nothing resembling the one you posted. The only thing that came close was an example of weakened spring tension in a points set on a conventional system. Makes one wonder if that can be compared/related to some kind of reluctor or pickup coil abnomaly. I mistook your trace to be a secondary pattern (they look very similar to me). Since you are checking connections today and I don't know what information is included in your FSM I thought maybe these pages may help. In this manual they seem to present the '78 ignition module and 6 wire harness to be the same as the '77.

No, just dirty, no metal. I hope Vintage Rubber does reproduce the correct profile for our cars, but it doesn't seem very economically feasible. I am just going to "make do" with the one from the Precision kit in the meantime.

One thing I notice is the alternator pattern in the dwell section of the secondary waveform, indicative of loose or highly corroded alternator connections, or one or more defective diodes. Here's a few pages from the Engine Analysis using the Automotive Oscilloscope manual to explain that. Pretty big manual but if there is anything specific you would like me to look up, I'd be happy to do so.

The picture of the Safari Gold Fairlady Z-L is my favorite I think. Similar looks of awe and wonderment all round. This picture more than any other I've seen portrays the visual experience when the S30 was first exhibited and the sentiments soon rippled around the world. Thanks for sharing the great pics Alan and Happy 40th Anniversary to all!

I tried to identify all the OEM hatch weatherstripping and couldn't fill in the parts number timeline which made me wonder if richard1 could or want to use one from a 260Z. From the '70-'73 parts catalog: up to 7/73 weatherstrip tailgate outer - 76910-E4100 weatherstrip tailgate inner - 76912-E4100 12/79 microfiche revisions: from 08/76 weatherstrip tailgate outer 76910-N3000 - 1pc O/side 76911-N3000 - 2 pcs rubber-sealing tailgate 90965-E4100 Current OEM - 76912-N4500 I haven't been able to find any part numbers to fill the gap from 7/73-08/76 richard1 - I mentioned in the other thread I came across a used hatch seal that had a tag on it (260Z). I took a pic of the profile. Would this one help you? I didn't compare it to my original which is in storage and difficult to access.

Apparently not the same profile. I have been meaning to hunt down the original from my 10/70 to compare with the OEM replacement now available. I don't think it's in very good condition, but I will check. I also have one that has a tag hanging from it identifying it as being for a 1974 260Z. But that is not the one richard1 is looking for. If I was local and wasn't running out of storage space I would consider dragging that Z home.

Great solution George! I was going to ceramic coat the shield on both sides but your idea is something I could do without sending it out and I like that it has been Texas tested. Thanks for the tip.

Ah I see what you are hung up on now. The easy way is to remove the distributor from the engine. Make careful note of the distributor & rotor position first and reinstall correctly.

These scans are from another Nissan USA publication - ENGINE ANALYSIS Performance & Emissions 1970-1980. It is a very informative manual (about 200 pages). I have extra original hard copies of this manual, I could possibly be persuaded to part with or could put them in the classifieds I guess. For those who have requested a scanned copy of the 260Z Diagnostics manual, I'll try to get that together as soon as possible.

Those pages come from the IGNITION SYSTEMS - 260-Z DIAGNOSTIC PROCECEDURES 1974. A Technical Engineering Department publication by Nissan Motor Corporation in U.S.A. It is 260Z specific. If anyone wants a copy of the manual, PM me with an email address and I'll get it to you. It's 16 pages.

Here is an illustration and specs for a manual trans. I imagine the dual coil pickups for the automatics would be adjusted the same way. There are no contact wear points, so unless the screws have come loose it is no wonder your Z is still running without a check or adjustment.

Do you have the ash tray lid & spring? If not, and because this is not exactly a priority item, do like I did; just wait until enough parts to make up one good assembly falls into your lap. There are so many of these cars that have been or will be parted out, that there seems to be an abundance of '70, early '71 "series 1" parts. Because an assembly such as this could be less than perfect or have damaged parts like yours, people don't even try to sell them, but they don't throw them away either. Try putting a "WANTED" ad in the classifieds on this site. You have nothing to lose.

I think many of us have been saving these, so we can make one good one out of the best pieces. The main component is broken according to your description, so I would suggest taking it apart and post a pic of the parts you have that are still good. I have just put the pieces from several together for my car and have a pretty nice cover that has been cannabalized left over as a spare. Maybe we can work something out to save another one. Put up a pic.

Thanks for the lead off honors E but in the other thread I was mearly relating to being brokedown in Minnesota. I wasn't driving a Z. Now that's even more boring...:disappoin Next!