geezer

I followed the same plan as Jon, buying 3 engine stands in order to get enough material to gain the height needed to clear the spreader bar which connects both ends. The measurements you need to know are: -Distance from rotational center to top of spreader bar = 39" (mine is 37" and a little close to the bar) -Rotation center of front bracket is 3" above front bumper bracket mounting holes -Rotational center of rear bracket is even with rear bumper mounting holes These are the only measurements that matter, everything else is personal preference. You will need to buy a few more pieces of square tubing also, unless you have some steel laying around. In my third pic you can see I built mine on an old cart base and just cut it in half. If you are concerned about things bending out of shape, take and record some preliminary measurements you can refer to. Also if you are replacing floors and supports, just do one side at a time. I have a spreader/tie bar that goes from the A post to the B post but it's not nessesary on a Z, I dont think. The biggest danger (although I never had a problem) would be rotation twist, but not likely if you are working on one side at a time.

I agree Mike, It is sometimes nessesary to resort to a coarse paper to remove enough material so the nicks, gouges and deep scratches can be removed. It is just as important to sand out a much larger area well past the flaws, keeping the piece as flat/straight as possible so as to not end up with a wavy piece in the end. Nobody is wrong here, each part has to be assessed and the proper course of action taken. If you can start out with 1000 grit, you obviously have a very good condition part to start with.

It was not easy getting these off. Nothing to grab hold of, friction fit steel on aluminum. After a PB Blaster bath and a 350 degree oven and about an hour of work with a nylon fiber stick and hammer, success! After taking these off I can't believe I didn't recognize them for what they are. Guess I didn't look close enough.:stupid:

For some reason their site isn't available now. Couldn't hear them on a L6 anyhow. Jegs has them listed on their site. I love their product statement...Disturbing the Peace Since 1968. http://www.jegs.com/p/Cherry+Bomb/769804/10002/-1

Kinda like a love/hate relationship for me. Love that I can find the odd treasure that I otherwise would not have been able to find; Hate that in the end, I pay much more than the item is worth (in all fairness, buying internationally doesn't help) and on the odd occasions when I never even recieved the item, or recieved substandard items, nothing was ever done about it. I don't sell on Ebay any more, biggest reason being, I hate packing/shipping but also feel the fee structure is pure greedyness. I can also relate to the sentiments Mr Camouflage has with PayPal's self advantagous fee structure. Both Ebay & PayPal are the same savy entity, who is well versed on the willingness of both buyers & sellers to participate. They have a thumb on the pulse of the market and reap the profits accordingly. Policies are set up within the limits of the law, and are geared to absolve themselves of any financial liabilities. Just like at the casino, they win, we willingly gamble.

Thanks Arne, I would have never guessed those are slip on shells. I can't tell by looking at them, they fit so well. Tomorrow I'll try to remove them. I did run across the thread where you discussed the SUs you had bought for your yellow car. This puts me in the same boat you were in at the time I guess.

I picked up these SUs to go on my original engine that will not be used for now, but just set aside. I thought they would be correct for my 10/70, but after getting them I see they are different. They came complete with the non-flapper, no heat riser air cleaner and the early heat shield also. There are no drain plugs for the float chambers. The float bowl lids are not round. The damper domes are odd shaped, chrome plated steel and have the typical plastic oil filler caps. Does anyone know if these carbs are shown in the earlier service manual? Is this an example of mix & match or as I read somewhere, robbing the roadster parts bins? Thoughts?

Carl - I'll ask if he can send a scan of the title to you to update your list. I had it in my hand yesterday but didn't even look at it. Arne - We are all in agreement that there was discretionary action taken by the various state licencing offices and the model year on the title really doesn't mean diddly. The only reason I found this of any interest was because up till now my Z had the distinction of being the highest VIN Z originally titled as a 1970. Yeah I know, big deal.:laugh:

I just had to update this thread. After this car was listed 4 times, a friend of mine bought it. I trailered it home for him. On the way there Brian was navigating with the MapQuest printout. He did a great job and we got there no problem. The very last instruction he gave me was, turn right at the next street. Get this... it was Beck Road. I thought that was fitting, to find a Z parked at the end of Beck Road!

Notice all 3 carbs are marked Z2 also. I believe these were usually sold in kit form and that is the designation marking.

I know there were a great number of variations of these carbs produced. Do these carbs have "Brevettato" marked on them? What is the Type (Tipo) number? I have a triple set of made in Italy DCOE45s that were on my Z when I bought it. They are all stamped Tipo 45DCOE152. Two of them are also stamped No.5F and one is stamped No.4N with Bologna cast into it instead of Italy. Anyone know the significance or meaning of 5F or 4N?

I can only vouch for my own experience and it will vary somewhat from someone who needs the parts shipped a greater distance. I used the contact process that is set up online. Charley called me the next day, I sent out a cheque imediately and my floor pans were at my door the day after that. No complaints here.

There is no doubt, your Z is a 1971. Here is a link showing some of the differences in a 1972. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31742

Welcome to the site! We have a huge number of members on this board that hail from WA state. I'm sure you will get all the help you need to get that heater working again. Good Luck!

That bracket will support two arms easily in one slot or drill an additional hole, but I don't think that will be nessesary. Does your adapter plate look just like this? If so study it a bit more, it should work. You can have the one in this pic free if you want to pay the postage, but its kinda heavy.

Try mounting it like this. 1st pic is overhead view,

Yep, thanks Clive! I appreciate that you lugged mine to Cleveland for me.

I expected this to be the case. Likewise, testing the OEM twice pipes with my leafblower, revealed that both thru pipes share a common expansion chamber. Without the use of magnehelic pressure gauges while under running conditions my crude test is hardly conclusive, but I would estimate there is about a 15-20% transfer rate from the pipe being supplied air to the other. ZDemon, thanks for the videos, NICE!

Nothing like an injection of early "white on blue" to cure you of the feelings you had last week concerning your abilities. Congrats from another guy who is in love with that color combination.

The Magnaflow 11378 is the best replacement I have found so far, but I have not bought one yet, just in case something better suited is found. I doubt the chambers are totally isolated, as it isn't stated in the product description. With a straight thru design, and the limited expansion of the exhaust within the muffler I don't imagine there would be much flow mixing or pulse shaping taking place anyhow. I understand your reasoning, running two totally isolated branches all the way and am curious to know if there is a benefit doing so, but it really isn't important for my intended use. I'm going to connect my leaf blower to the OEM twice pipes to see if the pre-muffler has isolated chambers or not. Brand: MagnaFlow Product Line: MagnaFlow Performance Mufflers Part Type: Mufflers Part Number: MPE-11378 Case Shape: Oval Inlet Diameter (in): 2.250 in. Inlet Quantity: Dual Inlet Location: Center Outlet Diameter (in): 2.250 in. Outlet Quantity: Dual Outlet Location: Center Internal Construction: Perforated stainless tube with packing Muffler Material: Stainless steel Muffler Finish: Natural Case Length (in): 11.000 in. Overall Length (in): 17.000 in. Thickness (in): 4.000 in. Width (in): 9.000 in. Outlet Style: Standard, without tip Quantity: Sold individually. Muffler, Dual 2.25 in. Inlet/Dual 2.25 in. Outlet, Stainless Steel, Natural

That is a great idea for a Z Dave, but I wouldn't let it get out on other forums where the hood opens the other way. Can you imagine a "what's this button for" at 70mph? Better have a good secondary catch.:eek:

This is from the '72 Intro

Unfortunately I won't be able to do the before & after dyno, as the car is already being built from the ground up. The after will be of little help to anyone without a point of comparison, but I will one day post a sound clip of it here. There does seem to be an increased interest in twice pipes lately. I have most of an original twice pipe system that I am using to duplicate a new one. This is the closest pre-muffler I have found so far. I plan to use only these stacked megaphones out back. The header is a Trust. Notice how crude the bends are in the factory pipes. My new mandrel bent pipes will be somewhat of an improvement.

I was quite meticulous, the thickness of the one in my pic is precisely 7/32". The OD is exactly 15/16". Maybe time and degradation of the parts make a difference, but this is what they measure.

I have never heard of anyone doing any dyno testing to determine any appreciable power gains, one way or the other. I don't have a leg to stand on as far as proof, but I don't see how going from 2 into 1 and back into 2 would be any different than using an H or X pipe on a V8 to equalize pressure. Granted, with a V8 the pressures are equalized between banks and not just cylinders, but I can't see how it would be detrimental. It would seem to serve as a means to even out wave pulses would it not? I am planning on using a true twice pipe system also, but only for the sound I hope to produce and the nostalgic value.