geezer

Real nice spread! That will be a family keepsake for sure. It's funny how they got the owner's name wrong and it may become even funnier after translating all the text. You need a bigger display case now.

I don't know about pretend, but in the real world if one was sold at auction we would find out what it is worth to the winning bidder...or if you were to offer one up for a rediculously low price and I snapped it up right away, we wouldn't know anything, but I'd be happy!:classic:

Hey Dave, what are you angry about? Just kidding. I tried looking in your profile to find out where you are located. Where is Enterprise? I have extra fenders & hoods for anyone who is in need, but I won't ship them. Welcome to the club. Try putting an ad in the Classified, Parts Wanted on this site.

There isn't enough information on their site yet to make travel/lodging plans yet. I've been watching it also. It sure looked convenient to stay at the Carlton Ritz and use the shuttle they provide to go to the show, until we compared prices. Even though they are sponsoring the event, were leaning towards a stay in the Jacksonville area, using the savings to gain a few extra days stay and just make the commute from there to the car show. Mrs Geezer doesn't enjoy a hurried schedule, but prefers to see all the attractions the area has to offer. Keeping an eye out:pirate:.

Feeling better than ever, thanks for asking. Hey I'm on your side. the sooner the car is back on all fours the better!

Hi Chris - This is why I mentioned the variables. The early cars originally equiped with type A four speed transmissions had shifter openings in the sheet metal placed further rearward. The change took place with the introduction of the Type B 4 speed at the start of the 1972 model year. It can get confusing when someone relates what they did opposed to what someone else did if the car is earlier than a '72, a different trans is used, a different shifter, etc. It's like comparing apples & oranges.

Hi Steve - My 10/70 was a half baked project when I aquired it. This was the solution that the former owner came up with for putting the type B 5 speed into it. It did work ok after trimming less than 3/8" off the sheet metal. It was bent so it came back the required amount to bring it up center of the hole, although at an slight angle that interfered slightly with the inner boot and didn't look stock. Also the console was missing, so I didn't know if it would hit it. I have been patiently waiting for a truck shifter to come up for sale somewhere, but no luck yet. I plan to follow Jon's lead, so it is about the same as his and also redrill the ears, when I find one, but I am going to wait till my stock console is in place, so I can ensure there is no interference. I am going to use a slightly larger inner boot also. Till then I can use this one that is a little out of wack, meaning it's not at the optimal bend or welded quite in the correct location and doesn't have the mechanical advantage of Jon's. Pointless to measure anyone elses unless all the variables are the same, such as what car, location of pivot point on trans, what shifter, or using a stock console. Just measure, cut, bend, and weld to put it where you need it to be for your car. Hardest part is finding a truck shifter.

Any of the fast evaporating alcohols, brake clean or acetone, are the best methods of removal of WD40. The rustoleum paint is actually a lot less subseptable to the oily solvents in WD40, than other paints because of its formulation. I have been surprised by the excellent results achieved using Rustoleum. For the money (which isn't quite as cheap as you might think) it does an excellent job for the intended use such as on Jon's track car.

Nice show pieces. I wouldn't lay down that much coin for them, but to some it's no more of a justifiable expense than someone willing to pay the big bucks to achieve absolute originality on a low vin car or to go over the top on a modified car. To each...their own, I guess.

Sweet! Have you done the math? How many Z's fit in 24x24?:laugh:

I didn't see JimmyZ's post and link before I posted, but I have read the link before. There is some good information put together in a well thought out manner. Nice work Jim. Your methods seem to run parallel to mine for the most part. You are exactly right about the "do it at home guy" tackling the job in sections and not getting ahead of him/her self. Much more time effective and cost efficient. PS - Looking forward to seeing the pics Randy.

I look at this a little differently. Don't bite off more than you can chew. If you are stripping this car down to the bare shell and then doing metal repair and rust removal, why bother to strip the entire car all at once, and then try to hold off the ensueing rust that starts to develop immediately, even if you don't see it with your naked eye. I would recommend removing the hood, hatch, doors, fenders, and cowl screen one or two pieces at a time, do the nessesary repairs, do the metal prep and then use the appropriate coatings. Same with the shell. Do your welding repairs first (may be nessesary to do some preliminary rust removal first), prep the completed section and coat. Here's why. Not all areas of the car that you weld in repair panels/pieces or remove rust from, are going to require to be epoxy primed. Even if you did, it would still be nessesary to top coat after. Because of the high cost of epoxy plus a top coat, it becomes much more feasible to use a rust inhibitive paint such as POR 15 or Zero Rust on these unseen/hidden areas. I have switched from POR 15 to Zero Rust for a number of reasons that I could elaborate on, but will give you the one reason most relevent to this thread. POR 15 will require a tie coat for any visable areas that need a sandable base built apon it. Epoxy primer will not readily bond to it without a tie coat. Using Zero Rust eliminates the need for a tie coat as the epoxy primer will adhere to it well, after a light, fine sanding. If you are doing this yourself on weekends you will be able to plan out a particular area to be completed and not worry about rust taking over. After all the welding and rust removal is complete, then coated, you can concern yourself with the exterior visual portion of the shell, which can easily be stripped and epoxy primed in a weekend. Now you are left with a rust free car that is ready to be prepped and painted. It doesn't matter how many times I do this, I always say to myself...why am I removing this just to put it back on? Stripping the bottom of my Z there were large areas that the original coatings were still in great shape and doing their job. Just saying, it really isn't nessesary to remove all the old paint if it is intact and not multi-layered. Finish panels are a different story. The paint has to be removed in most cases after all these years.

Congrats & Good Luck! Something that is really helpful, besides all these guys and some good books is, keeping track of the order of dis-assembly and keeping a journal, so that you can note your thoughts at the time. Things like, parts that need to be replaced as well as the associated hardware and parts that need to be refreshed/restored. It is also very helpful to know the exact order of dis-assembly. If your like me, in a few years you will have a mountain of parts and a bare shell and keep running into things that should have been done already and minor parts you don't have yet. Anyhow, that is my biggest problem...organizational skills. Have fun with it, that's what it's all about! PS-Oh yeah... the more pics you take during dis-assembly, the easier re-assembly will be.

Yes, weight reduction and an increase of strength that is gained from the pieced being stamped. When spot-welded together with the front portion which is also stamped into shape, the assembly becomes very rigid but light. I don't think there is any problem fixing it the way described if you aren't looking for total originality. In that case I might even be tempted to just cut, notch, bend and weld up a piece of thin walled square tubing.

Hi Andy, I've wondered about the feasability of tastefully modifying the roof on a S30, kind of like they did for Dan Gurney and his GT40, only a concentric design instead of a single bubble. We would have to see a drawing to decide if it would make a Z look too much out of wack. Just thinking out loud here.

I don't have that parts catalog Mike and hadn't seen that. Mine just shows the data plate with XXXXs and must be a revised, later copy. It is undated.

Great actor, sportsman, humanitarian and that's just his public persona. He has set the standard as a role model very high. I've never met him but did see him walking past the grandstands at MIS during a CART race years ago. When recognized and his name was called out, he would briefly stop, look over the top of his sunglasses, smile and raise his hand slightly above waist level, to acknowledge the crowd but try to not get too much attention. His passing will leave an empty spot in our hearts

That is exactly the conclusion I came up with, but I didn't want to go into it unless someone else was game. I do get carried away with assumptions and speculation when it comes to the methods used to construct these cars. You would have to understand a little of the Japanese mindset, especially during this period to come up with your answer. Waste of any kind was not acceptable and severely frowned upon. When almost everything that was manufactured was totally reliant on the importing of raw materials, it makes everything that much more of a valuable commodity. If you want to understand and compare mindsets, the book Engineered in Japan is a compilation of many authors that touches on this subject and many others. It is a comprehensive cross section of Japanese technology and management practices in manufacturing. Interesting read but focused mainly in later years than our Zs were built. Leaving the customer with an abnormally long set of straps, must have been something that was "nipped in the bud" though. It is awkward having too much strap to easily stow out of the way.

I was going to comment earlier, but thought, hey Stephen sure doesn't need me to do or say what he can himself, only better. I was right and Stephen exhibits a class act second to none! I think we have all said things we later thought better of, and I have used the edit feature more than once, but yeah Mike I'll echo your sentiments and am left wondering what are some people thinking?

Thanks Arne, I didn't realize that I didn't convert it

Curiousity got the best of me, so I looked at a few consoles I have. Only this one from a '72 had writing on the underside. It appears to have been done by dipping a sharp stick/object into paint, then scribing. Sorry for the glare.

Thanks for clarifying that. I know the car show is only one aspect of the convention, but it is too bad it wasn't on the weekend when more people would come. I don't know, I guess I'm more acustomed to just a car show/swap meet atmosphere. Anyhow, I hope to shake hands and actually meet a few of you guys during my brief visit.