geezer

The 240Z Dynamic Dampener used on the cars with automatics, that was provided on request was Part # 55490-E8300. A much more refined piece than the other type. This illustration depicts the parts in the kit that was provided to the dealer and installed, on a customer complaint basis only. The crude layered steel plate Dampeners that came later were Part # 55418-N33000 (up to 12/74) & Part # 55418-N3701 (after 12/74). Details on the use of these are somewhat sketchy but they look to be a quick fix, used to correct sporatic vibrations and installed by the dealer also.

A solid rumble in the rear that occurs between 65 - 70mph. Does it go away after 70 mph or are you just describing the speed range it begins? Two possibilities come to mind. A driveshaft that is out of balance will cause vibrations at varying speeds. A good test to rule this in or out that has worked for me is, using a large gear clamp on the driveshaft that you can rotate in increments to try to achieve a balance. Also if the vibration comes in at between 65-70 mph and is constant and increasingly worse at higher speeds, look for belt separation in one of your rear tires. Use a spare to rule this in or out. I have found a Nissan publication describing the 240Z Dampener Installation. It was the "fix" for automatic transmission equipt vehicles that had vibration problems arising from body bending frequencies and the bouncing and pitching motion of the differential mounting and also torsional motion of the power train. Is your car an automatic? Apparently the dampner was only fitted at the dealership if there was a customer complaint. That explains why some have them and some don't.

Hey E, that makes perfect sense to me, but I'm going to roll over and play dead now before I get eaten.

The changes made Guy described. I'll see if I can find the other vibration "fix" Beandip describes.

At the time of the name change I was not a Datsun enthusiast, but I remember thinking how "wrong" the name change was in my mind. It just didn't seem right then and took some time to get used to. A lot of years of building brand recognition went down the drain. As far as kids being confused with the lineage, it is understandable with so many nameplates in existance today. Hopefully they left the show a little more knowledgeable than they came in. At least they recognized "cool".

Very carefull use of a heat gun is quite effective and less messy than other methods, not to mention cheaper.

Bart, are you thinking of this thread? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26191&highlight=male+female

[quote name=ktm; I love this site' date=' but at times the nitpicking is unbearable. I was done with this exchange, willing to contain my opinions, as I saw no benefit to the original poster (that we may have scared away) right up to this last sentence. I believe I quantified my post as my opinion, that we are all entitled to, and covered my arse by using the word “accurate”. YOU chose to nitpick instead of just stating your opinion, which you seem to value more than anything anyone else has to say. But that’s OK because nothing you have said has changed my opinion either. The difference is, I won’t whine about unbearable nitpicking, even if you did take the first shot. Stephen merely mentioned he had compared his laser thermometer reading with a stock gauge and noted that, in his opinion, the stock gauge was sufficient for monitoring purposes. The laser thermometer is just another tool in Steven’s arsenal, not an onboard diagnostic feature. The problems you say you had with your fans running on, were not solved by having a more accurate gauge or better diagnostics. The problem can be solved easily though through staggered value thermostatic switches properly positioned (the same advise I gave Troutman) and of course in your case replacing the thermostat. No, you didn’t say anything about measuring the temperature to the tenth decimal. Pardon my assumption that your Wolf EMS was capable of that. Finally, nobody asked Troutman to justify his need of a more accurate gauge without a good reason. A little information describing his plans or problems would go a long way for anyone giving advice. Don’t take this as flaming or nitpicking, but just my response to your last post, and my last to this thread.

I hope it goes for a good buck, and raises the value of all our S20 engines.

No, but very effective getting the point across! Really, why do we tease ourselves looking at these? PS - Thanks guys for the translation tips.

Fair enough Bo. After a carefull re-read of Troutman's 1st post, I should have picked up that because of his intent to mount the gauge underhood, his plan was to use it for diagnostic purposes only. Even so I don't see the need for it. For the purpose of turning the fans on & off I have never had the need for a precise decimal pointed water temperature readout. I have found the thermostatic switches, that are available in a wide variety of parameter settings, to be reliable enough for me, to control rad fans reliably. Maybe you have more insight or are privy to Troutman's plans or problems, but not a lot of information was provided. All I noticed was "1973 Z" in his signature, no other details. Is it overheating, fan runtime out of wack? After reading this taken from post 1 - "like to get a more accurate reading on when to have them turn on", I simply offered up the basic staggered run time two fan, independantlly controlled system that has always worked for me, even with a mediocre gauge.

That's all that counts, but steak dinners are enjoyable too! You have a real challenge ahead of you to beat this deadline. Good Luck!

Maybe I need to update something, I'm not finding "translate this page" by following your directions Frank. I can't even find "page info" by right clicking on the web page.

Ha Ha! There's quite a few people who wouldn't consider giving up their sunroofs. Hey there Adam, where have you been? I was getting worried.

Huh...Why do you need two water temperature gauges...so you can watch it overheat in stereovision? I'll stick with the statement, you only need 1 accurate temperature gauge. Unless there is more information on the configuration or intended use of this car that we don't know about, such as the need for manually switching the fans on & off. A visual aid such as a water temperature gauge will tell you the operating temperature but has no control over anything.

Another gauge accomplishes nothing in my view. The operation of the fans is totally dependant on your thermostatic switch(s). What they are rated at will determine at what temperature they supply ground signals controling your fan relays. Here's a really crude drawing showing how to run two fans, each controled by a different valued switch. You only need 1 accurate temperature gauge in my opinion.

Thought maybe this was worth a look. Wish I could read the details. http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e76560508

Quite an honour indeed, to be invited to spend the day with such an illustrious gathering of cars. Must have been great fun to stretch her legs a bit and leave the picture taking to someone else. Very nice photos, thanks for sharing.

That's dependant on an individuals particular currency. As an example 5 years ago the Canadian dollar was trading at .57 cents US. As Conedodger has pointed out world wide currency values have risen sharply against the US dollar, making this car in question an outright bargain. Edit: But, we don't know what the reserve is.

That's the best series of pics I've seen detailing a Z roof replacement and I think the only pics that I can remember seeing that depict replacing the entire panel. Good stuff!

I was likewise thinking you meant to say "appreciating". I guess it all depends on how you formulate your calculations. Not my strong point, but it would be understandable to me that each of these cars would suffer varying degrees of a depreciation factor since their restorations, simply because of the time that has passed since the "program" and the amount of use each has endured. The unique/rarity aspect of being 1 of 38, complete with the "specially supplied program parts" is what I believe will always be an appreciating factor. Bottom line, they are like any other car and only worth what someone is willing to pay for them. Would you agree now is the time to buy if you were in the market? I think so.

Maybe not, but it was still interesting to read the response from Carl, that clearly points out the extent of the restoration process that these "program" cars went through in comparison to FilipeA's restoration. If anything, this intrusion served to enlighten me somewhat.

I'm assuming your assumption is correct. This is not a spec that would be subject to change without notice. Carl - By measuring the way shown in the illustration in the TSB, wouldn't you think any 1mm lip would have been taken into account before specifying a measurement? Probably not critical because they allow 1mm of leeway in the spec parimeters and that would bring you to the smaller value if you started with the larger number. I do not see any 1mm lip on the set I'm looking at. But then again there are not any identification numbers on the float bowls of these either. Edit - 240Z240Z240Z - Looks like you figured that out. I didn't see your last post before this post.

He has a 1972. The float levels are not the same for both carbs.

I know I put this up before but I couldn't find it by searching, so here it is again.