geezer

I have no problems seeing it either.Edit-Sorry for the duplicates. Nice looking car.

If this model was for sale, would an accurate description and pics of all the rusted areas hurt the value? He mentions it resembling a typical daily driver Canadian 240Z. The last Canadian 240Z driver I looked at was much like this but had an old hockey stick to hold the rear hatch open.

Very nice Juan! She has come a long way. Is it difficult to find L series engines in Panama? You are doing a great job and must be proud of her.

Ha that's great! Rust in all the usual places. I got a kick out of the signature line at the bottom of the page too: As soon as you stupid proof something, they build a better idiot.

If your car was a solid color you could go either way, but since you have the stripes you have to continue them. I think it will look great blue with white stripes. The black they come in is a gloss gel coat and doesn't look as good as a satin black, in my opinion.

My non-ducted BRE type spook from MSA was delivered today. I am more than happy with the quality layup of this part. Good value for the money in my opinion. Can't mock it up on the car yet, it's still on the rotisserie. Fast delivery too. Sometimes it takes more than a month to get something from the western US, but that is because of our Customs Inspections.

This was an unfortunate accident and it would be difficult to find the driver at fault. But, it is disturbing that the driver did not stop to offer assistance and left the scene. There is no way to tell how an individual will react in a given situation until that situation arises. Firemen, policemen, emergency services personel and those in the military see the extremes of human behavior moreso than most of us. On the other end of the spectrum, selfless acts of heroism erupt forth when least expected. Some people panic into a self protective mode and simply bolt to try to make a situation go away. Unfortunate.

" it a pretty basic part. I may just make it myself." I would encourage you to do so. It is a fairly simple piece, and you have nothing to lose by trying. You may surprise yourself and find you have a natural knack for hand shaping metal. A friend of mine who didn't have a lick of metal forming experience started out with simple pieces such as this and is a self taught "Master" today. Of course, the more advanced you become, it's like every other automotive dicipline...there is always another piece of equipment you need/want. Good luck if you attempt it.

Here's a used Mallory Unilite on Ebay. The same seller has a ProMaster coil and Hyfire IV spark box listed. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-Electronic-Distributor-Mallory-Unilite_W0QQitemZ260223571296QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item260223571296

If I know someone has been looking for something for a long time, I will give them the "heads up". That is, if I'm not looking for the same item. I've got far too many so called "rare" pieces that I have bought at bargain prices, that I don't plan on using, just taking up space. So now I buy only what I need and pass on the information to others. If I don't know of anyone looking for a "rare" piece that is inconspicuously listed, I just ignore it usually.

Enrique, excellent point, I find that to be the case with almost every square inch of hidden metal surface on these cars. I have turned my car inside out eliminating as much rust as possible. Every pinchweld and boxed in cavity and layered section had rust present. It is the nature of the beast. Thanks for bringing that point up for those that don't realize it. I am very familiar with the problem. Sometimes the sealer was more of a detriment than a solution, holding moisture captive in areas that are sight unseen until rust breaks out. A used hatch panel like I have pictured should be seperated and all rust removed before using. There will be be at least some rust present no matter how good it appears on the surface. Still beats paying outrageous prices for simple stampings. By getting one from a "rust free" parts car such as this, you will also get the underlying piece with it. If you need the top piece, odds are you need the underlying piece also.

I usually bleed the brakes again the next day after giving the minute air bubbles left in the lines time to come together after sitting. It is because of a difference in pressure between the front and rear brake lines that the light comes on. Just make sure the brake master cylinder reservoirs are kept full, not allowing any air into the system and bleed each corner starting from the longest line first.

Sorry to hear that. Only a year old...too bad. They become a part of the family quickly for sure.

You can try to find someone willing to cut a rust free one from a car being parted out. They turn up on Ebay once in a while also. That's where I got this rust free one for $9.99 plus shipping not long ago.

That's a hefty price to pay for a part that is not OEM, but described as very similar. Another case of "they got it...you need it". I think I would be seeking the services of a local tin knocker.

Hi Blaize, This is the way many modern cars operate. Instead of a single coil, a coil pak or multicoil is controled by an engine control module which in turn gets it's information from a cam and crank sensor. The cam and crank sensors are generally what we call "Halls effect" sensors which actually generate a small electrical current when a series of notches or empty spaces on the cam or crank pass the magnet on the sensor. This tells the engine controller the exact position and speed of both the cam and crank and the engine controller in turn tells the individual coils in the coil pak when to fire. This is only a small part of a modern engine management system that allows the elimination of the distributor. That's just the basic principal involved, if you want to know more try doing a "Search". Is it better? Yes, but that is not why I have a Z.

I haven't seen any seals without the trim channel. If you don't like the look, you will have to black it out. It is not a good idea to just not install the moldings. The moldings serve a dual purpose. Besides being decorative, when installed they put pressure on the rubber cinching it tight to the glass. Without the moldings it would be more likely to develop leaks eventually.

No flaming intended, just a difference of opinion. Steve, you are correct about the purist point of view. It very well may be worth whatever the reserve is set at for someone who wants to avoid the aggravation of body & paint. A non-purist would not be concerned it was not painted an original color and might even like the seat and door panel treatments. The jury is still out on the rest of the interior pieces, which I suspect are lacking more than just the instrument panel. More pics and some of the interior would be helpful. I just think a better deal can be had by finding a solid, rust free and most importantly, complete car. Seat skins & door panels aside, it is all the other missing interior pieces that have given me the most grief with my own restoration. Bumpers don’t come cheap either. I agree the cost of the engine & transmission can be cheap enough. You get what you pay for in that regard. When all is said and done, a substantial amount of cash will be invested into this car. Maybe as much as you have spent Steve, assuming you started with a complete car.

If the dent is slight, try your hand at repairing it yourself. You have nothing to lose. I have had great results on many stainless pieces. If you attempt it, don't hammer or strike it with anything, just use pressure from the backside with an instrument you have fashioned to do the job. Make sure the piece is supported on the face. Take your time and slowly work it into shape being careful not to go too far. When you are satisfied with the dent removal you can then bring the luster back by using graduating grits of wet sanding paper and then polishing compound. That's just what I would do.

Based on the Buy it Now price, I don't think it will be a low entry price. Just take a minute and guesstimate the cost of the missing pieces needed to finish this car. Wouldn't interest me in the least.

Probaby not a major concern for any of us. The BRE style vented spook available today is not a truly vented piece unless it is modified to be so. Earlier original BRE spooks were ducted and the airflow was aimed directly at the brakes. Logic dictates that if a wet air flow is directed to the brakes, braking performance will be affected. Maybe someone with a ducted spook will have first hand knowledge and has driven in heavy rain.

Well it would seem MSA's reason for wanting a club number has nothing to do with a club discount. They sent me a bill with the total amount including shipping and there was no mention of a discount.

There is no mystery here. The 12V bat. feed that goes to the starter simply continues on and connects to the fusible link. It should be easy to find the problem.

Wow Kurt! Guess it pays not to assume something is a typo. Nice score. It looks like it is all intact and it is rather unique. She is an excellent candidate for restoration. I would have been giggling all the way home.