geezer

Sounds like the starter solenoid connection has twisted apart inside where it can't be seen. That's why if you do a continuity check from the battery to either side of the fusible link you have no voltage. You already knew that wasn't right when it spun while trying to tighten it.

There is no way around it. You need to build yourself a specialty tool that you will never use again. I've got lots of used once tools that I've made. You will need to compress the spring and washer and allow room to get the clip started. I think I would use an old socket of the appropriate size and cut out material to create "fingers" to push against the washer. If you have removed enough material from the socket, you should be able to spin the clip into the groove while compressing the spring.

Thought I would tack this on this thread instead of starting a new one. This is a front spoiler that was once on my car, before I owned it. I have not come across another quite like it and was wondering if anyone recognizes it. It’s tough to photograph. There are no ID markings. It is molded from a type of polyurethane. It does not have a great deal of flexibility but that could be from age. It was fastened to the lower valance panel with a single row of 6 bolts and nuts with large washers. Not worth the hassle or cost of shipping, but if someone wants it, I’ll put it aside instead of tossing it. I should have mounted it before disassembling the car to get an idea of what it would look like. If you have a pic of one of these mounted, put it up here. The second pic is just to show the profile which is similar with the exception of the upper edge and is not bolted to a valance.

I think the better choice as far as period correct would be the ducted version. I've read, that to get around air dynamics rules BRE concieved the ducted version because brake cooling was allowed. The ducted version also must be more rigid in its construction adding strength. I took all this into consideration when making a choice. My Z will not be a daily driver, but only driven on occasion, when the urge arises, so wet brakes are not a concern so that didn't enter into my decision. I have an original BRE rear spoiler and I was more concerned with increasing the downforce on the front to balance the effect of the rear. As much as possible with period pieces anyhow. If I wasn't using the rear spoiler I would have went with the ducted spook. I'm a Z newb, reading & acting on what makes sense to me. Right or wrong, I'm not sure.

Thanks Arne. I'll post my evaluation of quality and fitment when I recieve it.

That is a well written ad with the pics I would want to see. Well thought out Randy. Good luck selling her! Tupee? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-1973-Datsun-240z-Very-Original-918-Orange-and-Black_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6187QQihZ001QQitemZ110234022557QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

OK, I just decided to order a BRE style front spook from MSA, because I want the unvented version. I have never signed up for an account with them before. Upon checkout they want to know a CZCC or other club affiliation number. Must be for a club discount. Do we have numbers here? If so, where do I find mine?

I have been following this thread with interest and am in the same camp as Dan, looking for the closest to original as possible for my late "Series 1". I was a bit mystified with what is correct and found the examples helpful. I removed my original carpeting and saved it for later reference, but it has vanished, along with my original shift boot. It will turn up when I no longer need it. I do remember the luggage strap brackets were screwed down directly on top of the carpet. There was no slit and the forward edge was not surge bound, IIRC, only held by the plastic "U channel". Makes sense since access to the tool/jack storage wasn't from the top of the deck on a "Series 1". So, it seems we are divided, as too what is correct for us, depending on build date. That makes it all the more difficult to find someone to cut & edge bind carpeting to our specifications, although the "series 1" would be easier to do on the rear deck piece. I would like to get an idea of how many of us would be in the market for the correct loop pile for each of our particular "Series". That information would determine if it is economically feasible for someone to take on the task and produce them somewhat affordable or not. So far it seems most are willing to make do with what is available.

We are working the Amelia Island Concours d'Elegance into next years schedule. We are already slated to be in Fort Meyers prior to the event and can make the trek across State and then after the event, fly out of Jacksonville. Sounds like fun and I look forward to meeting some of you fellow Z enthusiasts. I will also be in Cleveland the end of Sept. Doubtful the Z will be ready to make the trip, but it's a nice drive or just a boat ride across the lake from here.

She sold for a very respectable price. I wish the new owner Good Luck!...another one saved! I just had a look at the questions & answers. Does anyone else think Chris (26th-Z) is trying to cash in his pipe?

Kurt, not a definite answer but one thing I find interesting is revealed on pg 97-1 of the microfiche. Key 11 - Part # 00921-11810 is a cotter pin for an automatic brake pedal. It has a from date of 03/70. Sounds like a very interesting car.

I am a retroactive fan, having overlooked most BRE racing venues during my youth. I guess you can fast become a BRE fan no matter how old you are. I have you guys to thank for that. It must have been a most memorable weekend. I can't imagine the feelings Carl experienced after all his hard work, reuniting the BRE BAJA Z with Peter Brock. Thanks for sharing what pics you can. We are all looking forward to the magazine articles and photos. I have never met you Carl, but with pride, praise and respect it will be an honor for all of us seeing your car prominantly dislayed in the 2009 Amelia Island Concours Event. Congratulations!

“Poor man’s Porsche” is a phrase that I have only heard recently. “Poor man’s Jaguar” is another that slightly predates it. By recently I mean 10 years or so. It was 1970 when I took my first drive in a 240Z that was bought by a friend from my neighbor who was a salesman at Downtown Motors, here in Windsor Ontario. 240Z’s were on display and sold from the same showroom as XKE’s back then but I never heard that phrase until much later. Good thread Kats. It will be interesting to hear the different perspectives from around the world even if the origin of this phrase is never found.

Thank you! I find this post refreshing and in the spirit of what this site does best. I respect the opinions of anyone who takes the time to post and even if I don't agree with them, I have a choice. I can reply with my point of view or I can keep my opinions to myself and quietly agree or disagree. The day will never come that I won't state what I believe, even if it is only a gut feeling that I am willing to share with others if so inclined. As far as protecting the feelings of a thin skinned seller on Ebay, the thought never crosses my mind. Anything advertised and listed in a public venue is fair game for scrutiny by all. Many observations are made that would otherwise be overlooked if we were only concerned with upping the values of our cars and were afraid of speaking our minds. Nobody, singularly or the combined lot of us can artificially control market values. I sure don't need anyone to tell me when and how to speak, unless I'm violating the forum rules. Recently I was asked my opinion of a Z listed on Ebay, so I gave my best evaluation and started a thread to get other opinions. During the course of the auction I traded emails with the seller and asked questions. I wasn't happy with the answers given as the seller had a way of answering without telling you anything. I asked if it was a matching numbers car because it did not specifically state it was. He had what could be viewed as a valid excuse for not knowing the answer. He was not in the same location as the car. He told me to assume NOT and if the numbers did match...BONUS. But he did not volunteer this information with the other bidders, nor was the numbers matching status verified in the next two auctions that ensued after it failed to sell. And I did try to find out. Hopefully by being critical of this seller and sharing my gut feelings so others would think to question and act on the answers they recieve, someone was saved the grief of paying more than they should for a non numbers matching car. I agree, hash them over for all it's worth and get the facts, opinions and even gut feelings out there. A potential buyer reading our posts can then sift through it all, ask the crucial questions and make their own minds up.

That's what I need...more buddies with bad taste!! It was awfully noble of you to take them off his hands. Your a real Prince and were jealous!! Seriously, Libres are on my period correct top five list and they look great on your car!

Hi Joel, welcome to the club. You say you might go see it. It is a lot of money for an older restoration (going on 18 years ago) and I would not consider buying it without a complete inspection by someone knowledgable, to verify its condition. The true condition of these cars is not readily apparent to someone who does not know what to look for. That is a generous offer by Jim to go with you to look it over, if he can. That's what makes this club the best, the willingness of the members to help out when they can! Did you ask how old the pictures provided are? Use the "SEARCH" function on this site to learn all you can and find out what to look for. There are many threads covering this in detail. Being an educated wary buyer will save you a lot of money and grief. Remember Z's are like buses, there will be another coming along in a few minutes.

I need to get motivated. I've been using the "it's too cold today excuse" too much lately. I'm guessing a minimum 2 months. I will need it until the lines and suspension are mounted. I still have some welding to finish up and all the suspension components to blast and coat. I need someone to point me in the direction of the garage and kick me in the a$$. PS-If you can wait till Aug 16, I can deliver it. I'll be hauling another load of Mopar parts to New Hamburg for MoparFest. Your right along the way.

Glen, The only other critical measurement is the distance between the spreader bar and the rotational center point. Once this height is achieved you will be able to rotate 360 degrees without hitting the spreader bar. What I did was buy 3 cheap engine stands for $34.99 apiece. This way I had enought steel to get the additional height and piece together a spreader bar. In my pics you can see I also had to buy additional square tubing for bracing and building the end mounting brackets. Any other measurements would be a matter of personal preference. The distance between the rotating center point and the spreader bar is 39" which leaves clearance with a fair margin of safety. I also recommisioned an old cart to use as a base. It has some nice wheels. PS - Six Shooter, Your first on the list if you still want it when I'm done with it.

There is less chance of scratching/damage occuring with it mounted while it is being assembled. That is how it was done at the factory originally.

The easy way is to repair your original harness. I had some time today to follow some of the circuits and map out a plan. It can be done, but you would be fit to be tied by the time you finished. I have started drawing up a schematic of a different type that would make the job much easier. I'm going to finish it in my spare time and make it available to the early Z guys. It will contain all the information needed to make the transition from the earlier harness. There are 10 connector sets and 27 circuits. That's just connecting the engine harness. Each of these circuits would have to be read, connected and continuity tested and who knows what anomilies could pop up. The harnesses were changed for a reason(s), and I don't believe anyone knows those reasons. If you do, speak up. It may become obvious after tracking the 27 circuits. Your making the right decision, it is a big job even for a pro.

I just measured it. The rear centerline is zero, meaning it is deadnuts even with the bumper bracket mounting holes. The front centerline is 3 inches above the bumper bracket mounting holes. I had Will to thank for giving me that information. There is a little bit of overkill built into mine. It will be for sale cheap soon I hope.

Take a look in my gallery. I asked the same questions when I built mine. If you need measurments let me know. It is fairly well centered and balanced and I can spin it easily by myself without it getting away from me.

It was as picturesque as you could wish for this morning. The heavy snow blanketing the ground and covering all the tree branches and the evergreens laden with snow. Everything looked so clean & new. It was beautiful! Glad I didn't have to go outside, or go to work or anything.ROFLROFL Sorry guys, get your chins out of the snow, it'll be spring soon.