geezer

Thanks for the responses guys. I really appreciate the help. I’m trying to loosely recreate the outward appearance of the original dual pipe system and only hope it produces a sound that could be described favorably. A nostalgic touch of the homemarket, I guess. Carl – The Magnaflow example you found is the closest to the original muffler I’ve seen so far. I will find out if they can be had with 2” inlets and outlets. The original has a length of 12” and the Magnaflow has an 11” or a 14” length. Alan – I’ve seen your photos many times while doing searches. There are not many other examples to be seen. I think I even dreamt about your stainless system once or twice. I can replicate the pipes for the intermediate and rear sections from the original intermediate I have and from photos of the rear section. I do need a little help with the “booster” dimensions. I don’t know if it is possible to see the perforations in the through pipes to get an idea of, how many holes there are, the size of them and the arrangement. Also I’m left wondering if there is a single expansion chamber for both through pipes or is it divided in half? Please don’t put yourself out, taking it out of storage and measuring. In this case close is good enough.

Sounds something like a typical Monday around here! Hey with burnt fingers, couldn't you get those women to fetch the ice for your drinks?

I'm at a loss trying to figure the best option available to complete my exhaust system. I am using the header that came as a Sports Option (14004-E4620) and the second section that I don't have a number for. I believe it was originaly from the same car as the header. It's pictured here. I have never seen the last section for sale anywhere and will have to fabricate one. Here's the question. Has anyone seen or know where to find a 2 in & 2 out muffler such as the original or close to it? Each pipe is 50mm OD or a little less than 2" OD.

Mine range from mid 20's to late 30's, but there is no shortage of grandkids.

Well done Juergen, you have captured the beauty very nicely in your photographs!

"I dont know who's crazier." "Whats the point of having a giant robot if you can't blow stuff up with it?...Seriously" I vote for the giant robot guy. Do you need a giant robot that blows stuff up?...no, Do you want a giant robot that blows stuff up?...Yeah Baby!!!

I'm shocked! Only 25 years old and the clock doesn't work!?:laugh: Seriously, if you search the site you will find information helpful with your clock and almost anything else. Your wife has good taste in cars and husbands too since you can keep it maintained. Good to have you aboard.

Outstanding Frank!! Ol' Goldie looks like New Goldie now!

After seeing what a set of Watanabes center caps went for on Ebay last night I started looking for alternatives. I think it was $131.00 or something close to that. Today, while wandering around in Princess Auto I spotted these plain jane stainless steel caps that I thought might fit. After a 30 second trim with my cutoff saw, they popped right on. A perfect fit. They might look a little cheesy now but I think with a set of stick on emblems they will be OK. And the price is right, 88 cents apiece. They have a slight taper, so they could be adapted to hub openings of + or - 2 3/4". If anyone would be interested in a set I'll be happy to pick them up.

Now that you have come to that decision, just put an ad in the Classified section of this site with some pics. Everyone looks in there on a regular basis but this thread will drop out of sight.

If I was in that position, I would spend the next 6 months of the reprieve doing whatever possible to get it running again/spruce it up, without spending a lot of cash. During this time put it up for sale. You are probably just like the rest of us and hate the idea of parting with it, but you can always buy another one later on down the road. Even a better one.

All good tips above...but the most important aspect of installing glass was not mentioned. A new seal is the way to go, and I would not attempt to install it until it has been sufficiently heated up. The difference in level of difficulty is like night & day. A good method of heating the rubber seals up if you are doing it at home is to use halogen work lights focused on the rubber contained in a metal or wooden box. Don't try to heat the rubber too quickly and be careful not to burn anything. When installing, the hot flexible rubber is much less likely to put undue stress on the glass.

Or $67,039.82 CDN. Our buying power has risen sharply lately. But I think I have to pass on this one anyhow.

It looks like they got the color wrong on the invoice. Isn't 904 white?

I don't know a dang thing about video editing, except I enjoy watching them & you are getting better at it. Great work Sulio!!

Hey there Tim, welcome to the forum and good luck in the search for the right Z. Try using the search function for lots of great tips on what to look for when shopping for a Z. Take your time and get the right one. Fellow member Sailor Bob hails from Newfoundland also, and is also shopping for another Z. Shipping cost being so expensive maybe you guys can get a two fer...:laugh:

Yep, he's got a soft spot alright, considering he brought the pictures to show you. I think I would consider bribing him into doing the final prep work for you. It would be money well spent.

There are only two possible causes I can think of. Brush friction on the commutator surface of the blower motor is one. This is caused by deteriation of the brushes over time. The other cause could be any type of debris that has found its way to the blower cage. To find the problem and fix it you will more than likely have to remove the blower motor.

I've seen them in the "HELP" section in the Auto Parts stores.

I would concentrate on safety items first, brakes, steering, handling. Then maybe go over all the hoses checking for leaks or dry rot. A tuneup if needed. Just good general maintainance. These cars have a tendency to let you know what they need. If there is anything left from your $300. don't let her know about it.:laugh:

Here's a '71 240Z from Texas. The seller says it needs nothing but because of where you live it might need AC installed. It has a 5 spd trans. but there is no mention of the rear differential being changed. Dash has a cap. No reserve auction. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=011&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=320170717539&rd=1

My grandmother always told me..,"If I told you once...I've told you a thousand times!!" That would apply here. I didn't take anything said as flaming, but only gentle reminders that all of us should keep in mind. Keep in mind that some of these guys have gratiously answered the same questions more times than they care to count; not to mention the duplication created in the archives that makes a search more time consuming. I'm just glad we have such knowledgeable members willing to help us when we are in need. Anyways, glad you got the dash out OK.

Virginia is for lovers...I'm in love with your cars!

This might help... Just noticed this chart only covers to 1978. I'll look for the other one.

My mistake, I only have one Type A four speed left. It came from a parted out early '71 "series 1". It has the red L but not the red blotch. Another mystery to solve.... Interesting question Arne. As far as a correct restoration, the "L" wouldn't matter because a judge couldn't see it by getting down on one knee, but the red blotch on yours could be seen from the engine compartment. It's probably something not on a judge's checklist anyhow.