geezer
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Everything posted by geezer
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GOT WOOD? Geesh, whats the odds of that happening again? And so soon! We have always used WD-40 to remove tree sap, mainly because it's on hand and works well enough. I usually rinse with soapy water immediately after.
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Let me first tell you I wouldn't recommend doing this, but it is possible to tweak the throttle shaft without removing the carbs. You would first have to be certain that is the problem. When you remove the linkage and the nut on either end of the throttle shaft you will see the flats that can be wrenched in opposite directions enabling you to twist the shaft. It would have to be done in the half throttle position. Myself, I wouldn't take a chance of causing damage to the throttle plates. It would be much better to wait until future disassembly and you have a good look, otherwise you could make a small problem a bigger one.
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A lot of questions come to mind here. Do you know the history of these carbs? It almost sounds like they could have been set up for use on a car that does not have 1 intake runner per cylinder. As far as I know there is only the Datsun L series and XKE's that have individual runners. Short of tearing them down, which doesn't seem to be a priority if it's running well, you can linkage adjust them to better equalize air flow. It would be nice to have a look at the throttle plates to see if they were drilled to suit another manifold. If you can bring it from idle slowly up the RPM range smoothly to midrange and your plugs are still looking good, I would leave it until you want to remove them for a better look.
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What TBK was referring to when he said I was right, was the fact that tuning these carbs are difficult to explain on line and there would not be many about to try. The best thing to do is learn all you can and then do it on the roll.
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Had to downsize this one into 2 parts
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That's a typo on the conversion page, should be 240Z 260Z not 24 oz...
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Here's some more
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Ok, I'm going to put it here. Tried to email it 3 times and it bounced back.
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Hey Rick - I read the Norton's link and testimonials. It sounds impressive and might be just the ticket for a lot of guys. I have never seen it in use or the results of. I still prefer working with lead, rather than bondo. I was schooled in a different era. It could be the means to give Nate the easy way out. I sure would like to see pics of the work. Wonder if it adheres to Por15 well? 383 stroked to 496! - Youre the second Mopar big block stroker dude I came across in the last few weeks. The other was at the Z swap meet at Whitehead Performance in Toronto. His will be in this/next issue of Mopar Collector and is in a 66 Valiant. Sorry for the deviation guys.
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Jason, Your pics are the first time I've ever seen these, but it stands to reason that there should have been some way to lock down on the flats of the hexagon to prevent them from rotating once installed. Otherwise they would be counter productive.
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PS If it was me, I would be cutting out and replacing the metal now-there isn't that much more work to that than this-though there is welding...or panel bonding. I think you hit the nail right on the head with this statement Will. In all actuality, from a cost point of view it is better repair it properly now, instead of a quick fix. Just the fact that Nate could stop the progression of rust now instead of putting it off, doesn't mean he wants to get into that far either. Although he would certainly thank himself years down the road. I just finished sandblasting a Mopar K-Frame that had 3 coats of Por on it, in order to modify it. It comes off but is harder to remove than anything else I've ever blasted. I wouldn't be too concerned about using it and having to remove it later. The mesh is a different story maybe, I can't say.
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Did you note the position of the offset on removal? This type would give you 6 different settings. Worth rebuilding if you can.
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The horn button only supplies a ground to the control side of the relay. A relay can be controlled with a 12V feed or a ground. In this case, it is a ground. It does not mean there will be 12V present at the horn if there is 12V present at the control pinout even if the relay clicks. Also, if after cleaning the rusted ground, your horns worked, they didn't go bad at the same time, your ground went bad.
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Go to a tire shop who uses nitrogen instead of air and have them direct a narrow stream of gas over the suspected area. Make up your own adapter & hose and have a vacuum gauge setup in plain view under the hood. Makes quick, safe vacuum leak detection a breeze.
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Looks like a camber adjustment to me.
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I had an old toy stepthescope (did I spell that right?) with a length of 1/4" hose on it that was great for finding vacuum leaks. You could just bring it to someone who will gas check it.
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Whats your guy's thoughts on these mirrors??
geezer replied to DatsunZsRule's topic in Open Discussions
Those would look great on your car and the price is right too. I would try to find out how they mount. I don't think you want any new holes in your car if you can prevent it. I've had chrome over plastic mirrors of this type on a few cars and they held up pretty well. -
Maybe you or someone else can clear this up for me. Has anyone tried ordering body panels from Tabco lately? If so, how did you make out with that? I placed an order a week before Easter with them and have been left hanging in the breeze. Four phone calls, with empty promises of returning my calls and an email have gone unanswered. I was originally told the parts would be delivered to my Michigan address within a week. Geesh, I even put up a link on another thread, recommending them, because their prices were much lower, and they are the people who make the parts for Mill Supply. I would like to retract that now! It's good to find out who the suppliers are, that consistantly come up with the "goods", and also those who don't. Let's toss a few horror stories in this thread if youve got one to tell. It might save someone some grief.
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That reminds me, if anyone is planning on getting some ceramic coating done I'll pass this along. You would have to send more than just intakes though to spend the required $200.00, to use the coupon.
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If you want the added benefit of reducing heat transfer you might consider a metallic ceramic coating, which is available in a variety of colors and textures. Not much more costly than powdercoating either. Just like powdercoating, you will have to remove all studs, but temporarily install bolts to protect the threads from being coated. They prefer to do the cleaning and prep work.
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You could go with an odd/even day plan, but that might not work. I'm remembering the pic with your son. He might have a suggestion or two! Turned out really nice! Great job! You will do all your own paint work from now on I bet.
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That looks great! If you didn't tell us, I would have thought it was a pic of a NOS unit. What paint did you use?
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I tried to edit my last post but wasn't fast enough. I didn't mention the fused power supply to the relay. Check that also.
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If the relay is clicking when you use the horn button, that means the control side of the relay is working. Don't pull the horn pad, but check the relay. If the relay is working check the wiring from the relay to the horns. The problem can't be anywhere other than the relay itself, the power wire leading to the horns, the horns or a bad ground. TomoHawk is right about both horns going bad at the same time. It's not likely.
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Ditto, but they look good painted as well and from what I hear, will do the job intended well, no matter what your color preference is.