geezer

=Enigma= The best thing you could do at this point is buy a new gasket. Who knows how old and deformed the one that came with the header is. Then you will be able to port match the header to the head. First use a feeler gauge to find out how far out of flat it is by mounting it to the head without a gasket. After the flange is milled the apropriate amount, port match the head to the gasket and the header to the gasket as well. I don't know if you are using inserts or not. Have you bolted it to your head yet? If there is a twist that prevents it from being bolted on properly, that will have to be addressed first. It's a shame this wasn't done before it was coated. you will just have to be more careful with it. After all is said and done, you will still have gotten a great header for the money. Good Luck, and let us know how you make out with it.

Good to hear you have your water problem solved. This new problem could be atributed to welding being done on the car without the negative battery lead disconnected. A mistake that is pretty common. Just a thought that came to me when reading your post.

Based on the limited knowledge I have aquired on the actual cost to bring this car to this level of restoration, I think it would be a good buy at the Buy it Now price. I have spent much more than that just gathering up the pieces. For someone who's not in it just for the fun of the build and would rather buy one in an excellent driver condition, how can you go wrong? I think someone will hit the Buy it Now.

I've been getting great results using Finesse-it 2 made by 3M (05982). It is a finishing compound used for machine wheeling paint, but I use it to bring back the luster on plastic by hand polishing. You can remove imperfections and scratches first by wet sanding, graduating up to 1500 grit before polishing.

Anyone notice the NOS shift boot on Ebay sold for $153.50?

Welcome Cameron - Best advise I could give you is to read through the past threads by using the SEARCH feature. Every problem that has come up with a Z has been discussed and usually resolved. That's whats great about this site. Helpful advise is given out by a multitude of knowledgeable people. Good Luck in your quest for a Z!

That's great Randy! Your going to have fun now and probably have another 100 miles on her before you read this. It's been more than 30 years since I've been in a moving Z. Randy...Randy...where are you! :laugh: Good to hear your mobile too SuperFunk. Where in Ontario are you?

It looks like your two man team is doing quality work. That is better than a rush job where things might get overlooked. By it being filler work for them and not being pushed out the door, it gives them time to think about it more and do it right. It will be worth the wait, but sure does look lonely in that first pic sitting in the corner all by its self.

It's reasonable to me, after all, your the guy that did all the ground work. I'm in for one. The pics look great and I'm sure they look even better in person.

Hi Dan - I am interested in one if there are more available. I wasn't sure if they were all spoken for already. Let me know, Thanks

Thank you Kats for taking the time to post these pictures. Looking forward to seeing pictures of the fog lamp set with brackets.

Nice detail and I guess seeing in person would be much nicer because of the chrome. This is the first time I've seen this thread. Very impressive! Have you differentiated the variations yet?

Those shots look great Arne! Wow! That electric 1200 must have some creative gearing.

Sure you guys didn't put them on inside out?

Glad to hear you're back in the saddle! Looks great in the pics. Guess it's true about these cars gettin in your blood. It should be fun getting it the way you want it.

Looks great! I think I like it better with the side mouldings gone too. Now you have to swap out your avatar.

I think that is a great deal. You will be able to check the wiring harness, connectors and terminals for any corrosion easily before installation. Coming from a garaged low milage car it probably won't be bad. It's getting hard to find a crack free dash and would cost a lot more to have your old one recovered. After you install it you still have the old one to sell whole or in pieces also, so that will bring the price of the new one down.

The whole point of stut bars is to maintain the geometry of both sides making sure any movement is done equally. It shouldn't matter.

Depends on two things. Can I be the curator and do I get a company car? :laugh: Edit - Sorry for that, but that brought back my dream of working at the Lazyboy Research & Development Center. There will be some that end up in museums. Exceptional survivers and concourse restorations. Most others will be driven or used up to keep others roadworthy hopefully for a long time to come.

The very nature of these cars has a lot to do with differing opinions. The original platform from the factory provided a unique, fun and inexpensive sports car. Some feel they should stay that way and some strive for maximum performance, no matter what it takes. These cars make a great starting point for doing just that. Most fall somewhere in between which is reflected in our recent Poll. I can't think of one single other vehicle that has a more diversified following. All ages and walks of life. Therefore, a more diversified use. It also spans the globe. There will always be differing opinions in every aspect. Some opinions are presented in a way that strikes a nerve and an ill first impression will be made. Its not always easy to get a point across no matter how legitimate it is and someone will take it the wrong way. There is absolutely nothing that everyone will agree on. Not even what most would perceive to be fact. Constructive criticism is our friend and will hash most topics out to give us the information needed to decide for ourselves. Some take criticism well and try to see the other viewpoint, others don't. All in all, civility reigns on this site and other Z car sites as well. I have visited them all in the quest for information and really enjoyed reading through the Hybrid Z site when this one was down for the server change. I often follow links to other sites. As far as I know, no one has been maimed or killed on the net yet over a disagreement. For the most part heated debates are short lived. In my case, tolerence came with age and most everthing bounces right off now. Then again I don't know sh!t anyways, so who am I to argue?

Thanks for sharing! Your car is looking and sounding great. Have fun with it!

Here's the answer I got from the seller of the Euro Gas Lock, part # E4602 ********************************************************** The parts book refer to it as a Euro gas lock!!! Was mainly in Germany/Europe and when the cars were young, (am not sure about now) gas tanks in Europe could not be locked. It is a little knob which goes in the gas lock, keyless and turn to lock it. ********************************************************** Don't know what to make of that.

I think the magnet idea is worth a shot but I'd be real carefull about pressurizing the tank. I'll never do that again. I removed a good sized indentation from a motorcycle tank with air pressure. It worked great but when I went to install it, I found out it was spread out almost an inch wider. Funny now, but cost me alot to replace the tank. Couldn't get it back to its original dimensions nohow! :stupid: PS - If you try this get someone to film it! :classic:

Thanks for the input Arne. I'm beginning to believe the one that was on my car isn't the one it was born with. The entire car is a mix and match with a Fairlady Z, that the PO had at one time. One other thing that has me stumped, is the knob for sale on Ebay, that Kats mentioned. It is being sold by an Australian seller who refers to it as "euro". He must know something I don't, so I'll just ask him what the difference is.