geezer

This is what the latch fits to. Is this what you are missing?

Gregg - Looks like all is well in Belgium and I like the new avatar tease! Wouldn't most people in Europe who are in the market for a Z already know about the price difference and be watching sites like Ebay anyway? Probably the convenience factor of the cars already in Europe up the price considerably. Also, impulse buyers are more apt to pay a premium and not even consider acting as their own broker. How difficult was your experience, bringing your car with you?

Every once in a while I do a search and intentionally spell the key word wrong. This has paid off more than once. Not too long ago I waited a whole week for an auction to end. The seller spelled Datsun as Datson and had some 1970 NOS metal sail panel emblems listed in an odd catagory, like collectables or something. I was the only bidder and won at the starting price of $5.00. He then told me he had a few more that he wasn't sure were new or not and said he would throw them in as a BONUS! Newly listed Buy it NOW items are another favorite search for me that turns up some great deals. Still haven't turned up a NOS Ditson dash yet though. :bandit:

You got a great deal. That is less than the cost of the coating on it. That header will last for decades. If it was a square port it would have gone for a lot more. Glad it worked out for someone here.

Although expanding to cover '69-'83 would entail a lot more work, it would be easier to do now rather than later. (easy for me to say I'm not doing it). As far as print ads, commercials, archive pictures, vintage catalogs and memoriabilia, I don't think they belong on the same DVD. Tips, tricks, what not to do, is covered pretty much by the Search function and Forums discussions. Something else that would be good? - footnotes covering mistakes and amnomalies in the original printed data. Worldwide input is a definite plus in my view because I am an information junkie and never tire of learning. Kudos!! to the developers of this DVD, and I am placing my Advance Order in for a copy as soon as it is completed.

Arne - I think Nate's take on it would echo my opinion. I don't know if you want to devote any more time and money on this car or not. If you were to spend a few weekends on rust removal and some cheap paint, it would pay off though. It would then look great in the pictures if you listed it on Ebay. You would get a lot more exposure on Ebay. I would also be a little more vague in the description, but offer to field any questions. That might go against your nature because you seem to be an upfront, brutaly honest guy. After all this is a "series 1"" car and is the perfect candidate for someone to finish the way they want it. That's why you bought it in the first place, right?

I have seen this car on my journeys through the web many times also. I always liked it and I'm sure most would. The seller doesn't seem to care about the ill opinion of 1. You don't win awards for no reason. Good to see a fellow Z enthusiast jump to his defense. Hope he does well.

When it's ready for paint, go with the original blue, then give it some time and thought before adding anything else. Look through the gallery pics for some great ideas. No one else can tell you how to accent it, with stripes or anything else. It is a matter of personal preference. Some will love it and some won't. Good luck

Congrats! I love it when a plan comes together! Sticking to your guns paid off. Looking forward to hearing your evaluation after it arrives.

I suggest you get approval from the crew in Beaverton Oregon first! You can't just go messin with yellow Zs!

I'm using a pair of these magnaflow 2 1/2" inlet (3 1/2" overall) on my Mopar stroker. They are stainless with rolled ends. They might be too long for your use at 17 3/4". It would keep the fumes away from the car though.

Thanks for posting these great shots Mark. That's some of the best action photography I've ever seen! Beautiful cars!

It looks like this seller is playing it smart by throwing out the bait and avoiding all the associated fees. He has a lot of other items listed though.

Hey... if your desperate for loose change...

Nice job! That one has some meat on it. Price was right too! When you get your car on it post some more pics.

10/70 - #11730 Just recently dismantled the car and believe these parts are original to it. There is no evidence of ever being changed out. The door panels have been sent out already but did not have any screws attaching them.

Bob - I would be interested in seeing a picture of the Clifford Research header, to compare to the original Fairlady Z one I have. I've never seen one. If that's not possible I can take some pics of mine for you to compare. I searched the net and couldn't find one picture of either one. Anyone who is concerned with weight would not want this system. Heavy and bullet proof.

Hi Bob - That is the system I'm using. It is an original from a Fairlady Z (optional). Even though the Fairlady Z was RH drive it bolts right up with no clearance issues on a LH drive. I've been down that road before, trying to duplicate a set of headers that I designed & built. Although we had more than 20 people commited to buy a set, we couldn't find anyone to mass produce them at a price that was affordable.

Marty - What coating did you have Jet-Hot put on yours? I'm sending mine out to them tomorrow, along with my intake. I specified the Extreme Sterling which is rated for 1700 degrees. It has a slightly textured finish. They are doing both inside & outside of the header and just the outside on the Cannon intake. They quoted a price of $280.00. They are aluminum oxide blasted first and they will pay the return shipping. I thought that was reasonable since the header is virtualy irreplaceable and I want it to last. Doing the intake will reduce heat transfer somewhat.

In the link provided by Mr Camouflage read Post #50, submitted by Jon Mortensen. I am following his lead, which is the best solution in my view. He also posted some great pics a few posts later. I am going with the truck shifter and relocating the pivot point. The amount of metal you need to remove is minimal and will not change the finished appearance other than a stouter shift lever.

Will - Can you help me out here? I searched with what I thought would be the key words and still can't find the thread. Sounds like your sold, so I want to learn more. Sorry, found it. Cheaper alternative than Eastwood's http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=341-200&DID=7

Hang those double D's over your monitor as a reminder for the next time you get the urge. D-umb D-ecision Seriously, I think everyone is looking to upgrade what they already have. On any given day I see at least a half dozen parts that will make my car a little better. I'm already swimming in parts, so I am limiting myself to just missing pieces now. It's just too easy these days to find, buy and have anything dropped on your doorstep.

If you were to spend the time and agravation of parting it out, and sold what is worthwhile selling, after the expense and hassle of pickiing it up in the first place, you would still lose even if you got it for $900.00.

The red handled one is a Miller specialty tool designed for working the glass into the channel of a gasket that is already in place on the flange, but is also very useful for other applications. Because I primarily work on early A-Body Mopars it gets used a lot. The tool on the far left is used for moulding installation. This one is actually one I fabricated, because my Miller was never returned after loaning it out. It works just as well. It is made from a paint can opener that you can get from many paint outlets. After a 5 minute rework, your ready to go. It might not be obvious to some how it works, so I'll try to explain. In the picture it is upside down. The small flat surface is positioned in the groove of the gasket and the moulding is fed into the opening coming lengthwise from under the handle. Now, as the tool is drawn towards you along the length of the moulding, it goes into place without damaging the rubber. No part of the tool touches the bright surface. It goes around corners easily. You assemble the moulding pieces as you go. The red handled Miller is great for finishing up where you end. Hope this helps.