geezer

I worked with a guy named Les ****ens who took more than his share of digs. Automatic censor keeps bleeping out this guy's real name.

Hi Dennis - Welcome aboard. I joined up not to long ago and have learned more about these cars than I thought possible. There's a great group of guys that know their stuff, helping answer questions whenever they can. Don't worry too much, us old guys can still fix a thing or two.

I thought it would be a good idea to start a thread to track what I'm up to. Although I bought this car on the Fourth of July of last year, I have just begun to work on it. Up till now, because of an arm injury I have only worked on individual pieces and sub assemblies. At least this gave me the opportunity to do a lot of research, gather up the missing pieces needed and come up with a build plan which still isn't definite. I have restored dozens of cars over a period of many years and this is the first Z. This one is going to be fun. It's also the first car I've brought home that my wife actually takes an interest in. She thinks its "cute". I have made several excursions on parts quests and have accummulated truck loads of parts because I bought the whole lot, whether I needed them all or not. When the restoration is done I will offer these parts here first. So far my plan amounts to this. What would I be bringing home if I walked into a dealership in the early 70's and could order a 240Z, with options that were available in the early years, here and elsewhere in the world, along with some choice aftermarket parts. I will be doing some other changes where safety and comfort is a concern, but try to keep the original appeal these cars had when I first encountered them back in 1970. This is the Ebay description of the car. I had been waiting for a good one to come along to restore for a few years. Probably, this wasn't seen by many because I jumped on it. I contacted the seller, had a short conversation with him, hit the Buy it Now, paid for it and arranged a pickup date within minutes. It truly is a diamond in the rough. Any suggestions or tips along the way will be greatly appreciated. I will post pics as I go.

I don't know if this will benefit anyone or not. I was in Rona Building Supply here yesterday and noticed a pallet of paint stripper. It comes in 5 gal. cans or 18.9 liters. They are clearing out the old skull & cross bone inventory. I bought a can ($29.95 CDN) brought it home and tried it out. It works as good as any of the aircraft stripper I've previously used. Just thought I'd throw it out there. If anyone wants some let me know.

Arne - Can you determine what it is made out of. I know that doesn't matter if someone finds a source for them. Just curious

Will - Look at post #64. I am keeping track of how many are wanted. As of now we are at 15.

With all the responses to date, we are at 12 boots wanted.

That will work Steve. Jim has a point about debris collecting. Especially in an area with pine needles. But being the guy that installed it, you know what to watch out for. It's easy enough to back flush also. I only have one question...What are you using the other 21 1/2' for??

WOW! - That was a lot of reading. Nuff said about that subject. It never ceases to amaze me how a pretty simple question and answer session can snowball into a 360 degree hailstorm. But that's how things get done. Anyhow, I learned everything I need to know (at least about shifters). Thanks for all the help guys.

I think your right Marty. With mine, about 3/8" of metal removed is enough. It would be easy enough change the pivot point where it works best. I still need chrome though. It's got bite marks that will still show.

Hows about JOKERS not Queens!!

I would like to see that too. I can see how changing the pivot point can shorten up the throw.

Bill - Have you checked the condition of all the light sockets and changed out the bulbs. A corroded socket or bad (not nessessarily burnt) bulb can cause this. If you have ruled that out, your going to have to isolate the system and start doing continuity checks. Hope you have a wiring diagram.

Hi Jon - I just checked. The pivot hole hasn't been altered on this one and the shifter doesn't come close to hitting the inside of the socket or anything else. It comes up dead nuts in the center of the floor opening. When I got the car the console was not in it. The inner boot was mounted and the outer boot was laying loose. Because of the rather extreem offset of the shifter, it did stress the inner boot somewhat. It actually is a great design but I was just leary of it being a welded piece. I consider myself to be a good welder and although I didn't do this one, it is done well. Do you think I should just send it out for chrome and not worry about a break occuring?

Thanks Alan - Your response prompted me to pull the transmission out and find out for sure what it is. I have not started the engine since I bought the car, so that made it impossible (for me anyways) to identify it, or even check the shift pattern. I was relying on what the PO told me. He told me it was from the Fairlady Z he parted out long ago, and the transmission was the one from the performance catalogue. Later on, that added to my confusion. You could interpret that statement many ways. He went on in my conversation with him about the absolute perfection of the drivetrain and urged me to try his setup before restoring the car. He said it was the perfect autocross car. He was a good salesman. The subject of shift patterns never came up. Now that it's out of the car and I checked it, your right about adding that S. I have to figure out the ratios, and the diff. ratio too. Another thing somebody might know about is the JDM Trust header and twice pipes that came with this car but not installed. Has anyone tried to put them in a left hand drive? Wow, they are built of some hefty stuff! Thanks

Mine never had any mouldings on it when I got the car. I don't plan on putting any on either. That will make for one less thing to worry about. As far as appearance, I think they look good either way, with or without. What ever you decide, will be accepted by almost everyone I think because we have always seen them both ways.

Thanks Carl - I did read that article earlier but discounted it because that shifter didn't look like my modified one. It was later, on another site that I found the part number and just didn't make the connection. Now that you have pointed it out, I went out to the garage and took a better look. That's it alright, now I just need to find one. Thanks

I found out the shift kit I need is 99996-E3030. I've got a feeling this is going to be a tough one to find. Does anyone have one, or a picture of one. This is the modified one I have that works well, just doesn't look nice and I don't trust the weld.

I have been using the Search Function trying to find when the F5C71B was first available. It is a close ratio, overdrive unit that was a dealer option on the Fairlady Z. Also, what shifter was originally used with this. The modified one I have works fine, but I would rather have the proper one.

I did some more measurements and came to a decision. The Mitsubishi seats are so close to my original 240Z seats in every aspect. I think a proffessional upholsterer will be able to fit the Z skins without too much difficulty. I am trying to keep the original look but gain in comfort level.

I am using a type B 5 speed with a S-shaped shifter in a series 1. It takes the regular boot, but the forward part of the opening needs to be trimmed slightly. My shifter is modified, not stock.

Too bad the resolution isn't better on this great shot.

Yeah, that's her. They had to call for backup. It was more than a two man job.

Do you suppose her old man took that picture without her ever knowing it? I had to go back and take a second look. I'm over it now..I'm OK!..I'm OK!..I'm OK!

:sick: You cruel bastard!! That image is stuck in head and not because I like it! :stupid: