geezer

Steve - Although this discussion has been going on for quite awhile, it's new to me. Found this. The same guy is selling the same kit on Ebay still. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102038

Steve - I haven't seen the set I have, sold anywhere for a while. I picked these up recently in Medicine Hat, Alberta for $85.00 from a guy that decided to part out his car and never even opened up the box. But, those are the same part numbers for the springs. It looks to me that the fronts are progressive and the rears are not. There was not any type of spec. sheet included, only hype about it being a total engineered system. I'm wondering myself if I will use them or not.

I had the same wad in the same location. I believe it is a thumbable putty used in certain places to isolate against possible vibration of the adjoining metal pieces. It is also used to seal gaps where needed. We used a similar substance here that was painted over. After going through the ovens it expanded and adhered very well. With age it does not fare so well, hardens, becomes brittle and falls out easily.

You see that quite a bit. One low listing fee that reaches a lot of potential buyers. At most he will have his auction cancelled and get a letter of repremand from Ebay. He's not breaking the law, only Ebay's policy.

Hi Steve - Ive got set in front of me right now - 5020-F (red) these are progressive and 5020-R (red) which do not appear to be. They came as a set with the HZ3015 & HZ3016 shocks (blue). They state 1" lowering. The complete set is labeled as HPK 251.

I agree. It has to come off straight up and as square as possible. That is why I suggested a chain whip. When the chain applies the upward impact it is straight up. Like Carl said a little manhandling cant hurt either as long as the impact is spread along the length of the 2x4. It just might help loosen it. Wish I was there to take a crack at it. No pun intended.

Two really good ones in a row! Are you going for the hat trick?

Hi Bill - You gotta be getting frustrated by now. I have had varying degrees of success in similar situations. Depending on how much space you have to work in and taking care not to damage anything else, you might want to try this. Like Arne suggested you will need some solid brackets mounted to the head. By using a very heavy length of chain fastened evenly from the brackets and using a whipping motion you can apply a great deal of upward impact force. Might be tough with the hood on. You can run the chain over a support so you don't have to be directly over the head. We use to use this method for removing stubborn axles and many other times where a good jolt works better than just steady pressure.

I have tried this a few times and although the carpet looks uniform in color, I think the surface wears and fades quickly because it is old carpet. I never came up with good results. Then again, you might be using better dye. Let us know how it works out.

Enjoyed looking at your pics Vic. Wish I had the knack of taking great photos like this. Thanks for sharing!

After watching that I had the urge to find a long winding road meandering through the hills. Then I looked out the window and seen the snow coming down and snapped back into reality. Bummer.

I noticed the Revell model kit Gregg posted is labeled with the French language as well as English. Could that be the reason for a different image?

Funny you should mention toilet paper. If anyone buys one of these, look for the APT seal of approval. Same as on the toilet paper I buy.

Sooo Will - Looks like you won't be needing that NOS dash?

Jim - I think it would be senseless to second guess your evaluation. A documented well known survivor. It obviously is what it is. It is only the reasons for it that are not known.

There were many things done and never documented during the rapid expansion and increasing production counts. I have seen the parallel events happen here during the same time period. It could very well be that both opinions expressed here are true. At that time running changes were commonplace. If the existing facility could not keep up, out buildings or other facilities were opened to keep pace. And not for only paint. Now that's just my best guess.

If you guys want I will track this thread and get an accurate count of how many interested parties we have in the grommet style boot (with or without grommet and grommets alone) and anyone interested can chime in with their needs. We can bump this thread to the top or start a new one set up for this purpose.

Well said Arne! Although I am a seeker of the truth, just like most here, and sometimes have questions about things pertaining to correctness, a lot of it doesn't really matter. We all have a natural curiosity, and a lot of questions will never be answered simply because it would only be a best guess.

I can give you an hour long speech on the use of teflon tape, but I'll spare you that. The reason in this case for using a liquid form of sealant is mainly the...one size fits all... factor. Teflon tape has an inherant compressabilty range. It may require 1 wrap, 2 wraps or whatever to use, making it difficult to reach the desired torque and seal at the same time. Much of industry has outright banned the use of it because of the problems experienced. There are a meriad of problems that I could elaborate on. I'm not saying that it can't be used successfully, but am saying there is a better way.

Will - You are still faster than me, anyways.

Steve - An alternator upgrade would be less needed with the use of relays. You are using less wire, thus reducing the resistance, which translates into a safer more efficient system eliminating the heat, which in my opinion is downright dangerous. It's not an overly expensive upgrade and will give you pease of mind. I know this doesn't deal with your original question but I think most experts will tell you this.

Also Steve, by using relays you are not running high amperage through your switch.

240ZX - Go back and read the link I provided. I did not recommend Antiseize. I would never use teflon tape on any of the high output engines I build. My machinist would have his way with me.