geezer

ajmcforester - Here is a shot of the backside. If you can see past the glare, you can see how each is built from two pieces and welded together. I had these rechromed and they are actually much better looking than when new. The original "fit & finish" was not all that great on these.

Yes Carl, you did mark Kat's drawing wrong. You have "old style" & "new style" reversed. I have not seen your NOS set but I know from the part numbers you quoted, 63900-E4126 & 63901-E4126 that yours are the originals found in the 1970 FairladyZ option parts list. They will have trim rings with the holes positioned the same as mine. The easiest way to get in the habit of "getting it right" is to note if the forward leading hole is on top or coming from the bottom, when mounted, if that makes sense to you. Just look at the picture with the two OEM "types" side by side. The original "early" is on the left and the "later" is on the right. The auction MikeB linked was the deal of the month. Those are the original "real deal", just like yours Carl. The part numbers for the "later" style (for lack of better terminology) are, 63900-E8726 & 63901-E8726.

You are making the same mistake again. These lenses will fit with the "later" OEM trim rings but will not fit with the original OEM "early" trim rings. -First pic - "later" OEM trim rings mounted on reproduction lenses. -Second pic - OEM "later" lense & trim ring -Third pic - OEM original "early" lense & trim ring on the left, OEM "later" lense & trim ring on the right I know it can be confusing and I think you are referring to the shape of the lense and not what it will fit or match up with.

Zup won this auction. Different auction, same seller. I'm not going to sh!tmouth anyones buddy here but decide for yourself, if there is any deception in this ad and does he not know what he is selling? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_rdc=1&item=300490744688&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.com%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp3984.m570.l1313%26_nkw%3D300490744688%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&viewitem=

Esprist - I think you have the different types confused. My 1970 Nissan FairladyZ parts catalog has 63900-E4126 & 63901-E4126 listed under Option Parts. The first pic is from an old post and is self explanatory. The second pic is my trim rings and a few of the seller's pics for posterity. I just figured we should get it right, considering the thread title, for searches in the future.

Handy for getting a quick part number reference without leaving your seat. Thanks for the link Mike.

Chris, Esprist, Anyone, I need professional help here.There are a few points I would like to clarify. Starting from post #1. Esprist referred to the sellers pic and said the headlight cover on the right was the early version, driver's side (assuming LHD). Also, Esprist believed the covers were sitting on the wrong boxes (switched). Isn't the original, early version the one on the left and sitting atop the correct box? I hope so, because I have always thought that my rings were the early type which coincide with #63900-E4126 & #63901-E4126.The rings I have are the same as depicted in the instruction sheet, with the holes oriented the same. I believe the cover on the right in the pic is the later #63901-E8726. Which brings me to this. I remember a while back, reading a post where a member used his OEM rings on a set of reproduction lenses because of the difficulty of fitting the repro rings. I can't remember the members ID but can remember the car and installation pic. It was IIRC, a red Z with the front bumper rubber removed. Anyone remember it? Now, I am wondering which OEM rings were used on his repro lenses. I am going to look for that post again. EDIT:Found it, it was 240ZGL. He has the later OEM style which allowed him to mix n match and looks great!: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=322187&postcount=11

Here is a link to the Z Car Home Page that illustrates the problem and a cure. This simple modification may be helpful. http://zhome.com/ - Scroll down to - Z Technical Library - Click on - Index of Technical Articles - Scroll down to Intake System - Click on Improving the Throttle Linkage or Getting Rid of the Jerk! in your early Z car.

As simple as it sounds, reproducing the lenses are much more involved. A two part form for each side has to be constructed, in order to achieve the detail and accuracy which enables the trim ring to "nestle" with the lens when assembled. As Esprist mentioned, if the components do not match up correctly, it will result in cracked lenses. It requires specialized vacuum forming equipment that is able to acommidate a two part form, as well as provide additional heating elements, that are necessary for forming the thickness of material used. That is only half the problem also. It is very difficult to form the trim rings with the required accuracy and consistancy, in order to mate with the lens and nacelle properly. Not to say it couldn't be done, but it would require a great deal of tooling with a hefty price. In short, this is the reason there have never been real quality reproductions made. After talking with a rep and crunching the numbers, I gave up on the idea. I determined, it was a project with too high a risk of failure and loss of investment to attempt.

Congrats! After reading about it in another thread awhile back, I've been using the 50/50 acetone/automatic trans fluid concoction for penetrating frozen parts. The acetone evaporates before long though, so more has to be added to get the desired penetration. The acetone really thins the trans. fluid and allows it to "wick" to the deepest, tightest areas that are locked together. The age old problem of removing frozen/galled brake drums without damaging them, is a thing of the past, with the help of this mixture (as long as you have at least a decent two finger puller to apply the pressure). Its a great feeling to finally triumph over situations like that, when it seems hopeless at first.

I maybe shouldn't have mentioned my "auction gone wrong" with him at all. It didn't cost me anything and I retracted my bid immediately. My bid was topped anyhow, by the end of the auction. He does have a solid feedback score even if this latest auction was tainted, by him not mentioning it was a mixed set of headlight covers. Lots of members here do give him respect and deal with him regularly without incident. Has anyone here bought a set of these reproduction covers linked by TQs30z? Just wondering how they fit. They wouldn't do me any good though. I need a set of replacement lenses for the later OEM type to go with my trim rings that I had rechromed already. Just thought I would also mention that I did take a crack at reproducing the trim rings and also looked into having replacement lenses made using a vacuum forming process by a local company. The cost to have the prototype forms made was more than I was willing to invest and the rings proved to be quite difficult to form as well. It is beyond my capabilities.

I agree with Steve. This car has had an older refresh done years ago with some mild modifications done. The rockers have been off in the past as evidenced by all the rivets that can be seen in the pic, to put it back on. I think the PO probably did the best he could, at the time with what he had. I wouldn't want to be the next guy to dig into it. On the bright side, the value of the pieces if parted out would likely exceed what you are willing to pay for it, but that's not your intention. I would exercise a little patience, spend more up front for a better car and leave this one for someone who wants to part it. It just isn't economically feasible to take on as a project car IMHO.

Yes, its sad. I was wondering if anyone else noticed that or not. I am one of those troublesome Canadians that canceled out early on, in one of this sellers auctions, a year or so ago because of what I considered to be seller trickery. He is one of the more knowledgable sellers in the business and we know that he knows exactly what he is selling. Buyer beware.

Thanks for the information John and I am looking forward to an update next week. I'd be interested to know what a new, modified for our use set would cost. The set I have are the same as Carl mentioned in post #14 with the "D shaped" shock rod that keys into the stock insulator, specifically designed for the 240Z. The only spacers are inverted 6mm cup washers. I don't have another set of struts here to measure and can't see any sign of the struts being shortened (in answer to rxsleeper's question a few years ago). The Suspension Techniques springs don't require compression to be installed. Is that a typical characteristic of ST springs for a '70 Z or I'm wondering if maybe they have been cut?

Hi Sarah, I don't think you owe an apology to anyone and there isn't any reason to become paranoid either. We are blessed with a number of esteemed members here that are quite passionate about this subject and rightfully so. They have done the research, sorted the facts from the fiction, spoke to several of the principals involved in the intriquing story of the S30 and cannot stand by and let false statements perpetuate. I am grateful for their efforts and also look forward to the day when recognition is finally bestowed on the entire design team that is deserving. Please do continue your discussion of the S30 design. I find it very interesting and believe we can discuss the finer points of the design without crediting any one person as being responsible for its existance.

Thanks for the link Arne. I haven't taken the time yet to compress them through several cycles, but they are more than 25 years old and have been dormant for most of that time, if the 1984 plates on the car were any indication of their age and usage. It's good to know they can be serviced by Bilstein, but I am also interested in learning of alternatives such as rxsleeper had found..."I have located another company that will rebuild/revalve/dyno a Bilstein for a little bit less than what they charge for a revalve". Also if Jim has found a repair source here in Canada, that could possibly bring the cost down substantially. Just looking at all the options and not even sure if I will use them myself or not.

Thought it might be worth my while to revive this post if I can find who to send a set of Bilstein inserts, for refurbishing. I disassembled everything that has been sitting on the shelf for the last 5 years, choosing all the best pieces for refinishing and was surprised to find these hidden in the strut tubes. They were matched up with a set of ST springs. Jim - Did you have yours rebuilt or try them as they were? If you did have them rebuilt, I'd like to know who did them for you. These are the same part numbers as yours but they are all yellow.

When I took those pictures, the retractor anchor plates were only tack welded in place to try it out. Once I determined the belts were located so they would work properly, everything was removed except the mounting plates because I had a lot more metal work, welding, blasting, painting etc. to do. I only took those pics to help explain to a friend how I was going about mounting the belts. I never got a good shot of how well the panel fits over the completed installation. In the last picture showing the trim panel slot, the retractor wasn't bolted on and the panel wasn't sitting flush. Since the topic came up, I thought I would just show you guys what the plan is. When completed, I will be sure to follow up with better pics and my evaluation.

Here is another option, if you are not afraid to perform a relatively simple mod to your early Z. I wanted to upgrade to a retractable style belt and really liked the Wesco WELR-N roadster style belt that Steve recommended. I also ordered the optional mounting hardware, just to make the installation a little easier. I reverse mounted the retractors hidden behind the inside quarter trim. This required cutting into the inside quarter panel to allow it to fit. With the optional hardware package, they include a pair of anchor plates, that I welded in place. I based the mounting location on the center hole of the inside quarter trim panel. By cutting a slot up to the center hole, the belt is positioned perfectly to it, with no interference of movement in or out. I mocked them up complete with a set of stock series 1 seats installed. I then talked my wife into climbing up into the seats to test out the belts. I wish, I had a picture of that (the car was on the rotisserie). She had no problems whatsoever and liked the ease of operation and perfect fit. I don't foresee any problems when its time for final assembly. These pics aren't too pretty but I think it will be a nice installation when completed. Of course, if your afraid to cut into your Z, this wont work for you.

Kind of makes me wonder about the story behind this car, being in storage for so long. It is quite a common occurrence though. My grandfather was in his mid 70s when he bought a 1968 Cougar off the showroom floor. He tucked it away in the garage and mostly only drove it to the dealership for regular scheduled visits. After he past on, my dad didn't feel right driving it, and refused to let anyone else in the family to own it. That car today has just over 4000 miles on it, owned by a collector. Even knowing this, it still amazes me to see such well preserved examples turn up for sale. A collectors dream.

It looks to be a very nice car that has kept most of its original period appearance. I like the look of the rear bumper without the upright guards and also the ductless spook. It looks quite similar to what my Z will look like other than the color, wheels and absence of a rear spoiler. I like it, a lot. The paint is something you can eventually get around to improving, really doesn't look bad in the pics.

Glad it worked out. Is the lsd destined for any particular car Mike? I'm kind of curious because it doesn't seem like a modification you would make on any of your '69 build cars or such a low milage, original '72.

The gasket is more than likely cemented on both sides bonding it very securely. I usually use a 1" wide, very thin blade putty knife and tap it with a hammer around the circumference until it breaks loose. Start off with a few good whacks on the top of the case, just in case you do knick the mating surface a bit, so it is less likely to leak.

I wore those spotweld cutters out pretty quick also. Maybe I didn't spend enough on them and there are better ones available, but I have better luck using a good quality countersink cutter like shown in the upper part of the pic. The spot weld cutter like shown lasts for a dozen spotwelds if your lucky but a good countersink cutter will drill out hundreds and hundreds without wearing out. A few good thin steel chisels will be indispensable also. Have fun disecting her.

Speedo cable?