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Welcome Mark - Good eye diagnosing that one. Intermitant problems can be the hardest to find. Kind of like fixing it, when it's not broke. I wish I had a nickle for every time I got something to work but never actually found what was wrong.

Welcome Adam - In my part of Ontario, we have less snow than a lot of the US states. But when it does snow, they sure do pile on the salt. Even when the spring rains come, it takes quite a while to wash away the residue. That's why I had to go south to buy my Z. They are next to impossible to find here, in restorable condition because of this. That is, unless it was not winter driven. Does your car have the expansion tank for the fuel system? I have heard of some Canadian imports that did not.

Hi Ian - It looks like you have a good friend watching out for you. David gave you a great deal by the looks of it. With your enthusiasm, I'm sure we will all be looking forward to seeing your progress. Good luck.

Looks like you are well underway. Good luck Drew.

Hi Brendan, I have a book by HPBooks. Titled WEBER CARBURATORS by PAT BRADEN. It is quite comprehensive with Theory of Operation & Design, Troubleshooting & Repair. It has Altitude Compensation Tables and Jetting charts, and a lot of other info. If you need any specific chart, I can scan it, but would recommend buying any good book on Webers, or find someone with the knowledge needed to tune them correctly even if your current problem lies elsewhere.

I once got a great tip from a bike builder. He used a product from the Maytag people, used to remove rust from dishwashers and such. Labeled "for professional use only", and for good reason. The fumes can cause serious lung damage. That didn't deter me, I used it in a gas tank, with about 10% black diamond sand mixed in, as he instructed, sloshing around for a few days in my spare time. The results were astounding, shiny as a new silver dollar.

I forgot to say, he nailed it. Couldn't tell the difference. That was a midnight blue though.

The PPG guy I went to used what I think he called a spectrometer and had me bring him a well rubbed out sample of the color needed.

Looks Something Like A Halfmoon Pup

Hi Walter - Just a few observations I would like to comment on. -Contrived, Yes, but I think, not for any malicious attempt to re-write history. Just a way to explain to an ordinary Joe like me with some clarity and make some sense of the timeline, which, in the big picture, all other variations would certainly be included. I grew up with the ability (as did all my buddies) to identify anything that came down the road. You can't readily do that in this case. -It doesn't force anything into a "model year mold" -I am a big fan of logic and do not believe there is a bit of truth about being designed solely for the US. If they possible could have provided the US with other models without undermining themselves they would have. That is if, they even had the ability at the time to produce the vast amount of different parts that would be needed to build a large volumne of additional models. Also, markets had to be explored with whatever the designers had developed. These are decisions made solely on feasibility and economics. -If anyone wants to use the term "SERIES", so what, or "FAMILY".

Will - I certainly didn't have any knowledge of a G-nose or any other variations at the time. Even then I would have been considered a hardcore car guy, but simply wasn't exposed to anything other than what was on the showroom floors and on the lots. I ogled over the Z and would have bought one but that would have been seriously frowned upon by my employer. I was just blown away with them. I am only now being educated by the wordwide perspective. Great input from everyone.

WOW IS RIGHT!!- Great job. It's all worth it in the end with results like this. Your car just got promoted to my background pic. Enjoy

And really wizz the neighbors when you bring it all home.

This one would have to be seen in person. Would be a real gamble otherwise.

How long do you think the owner would give you to remove all that. Is the auction just for the parts and not the property?

PS - Technical service bulletins are not nessessarily issued to all delivery destinations. Not every change is dealt across the board worldwide.

Dave - Maybe, someone with a 10' foot pole will have the answer. I know the procedure used during the build. If a vehicle calls for a particular part it is installed. If a vehicle does not call for it, it may still be installed simply because in this case, that particular sub frame is on deck because of a shortage of sub assembled bracketless ones. In the case of sway bars you will find many cars with only the brackets. There will be a start up date for the introduction of rear sway bars that could be pinpointed. A TSB would have been issued.

I agree Dave. You can not regulate an optimal air/fuel mixture in this manner. A complete system is needed. Sure, it will benefit a car running full out for a quarter mile if correctly jetted. Also modern fuel injected, electronic controled vehicles, but not a street driven, carbed car based on 60's technology.

Hi all, THE WAY I SEE IT - History correctly portrayed would have to be laid out in this manner, but I would not call it a "family" but simply a production run, which can be defined differently depending on the export market involved. "Family" is a term used here primarily to desciibe all vehicles from the same manufacturer, but when addressing the planet it may not apply in that context. Depending on the export market involved, different stategies and nessessities arise. Compliance with government regulation, scheduled design changes,testing and customer feedback, production shortages, alternate suppliers, time restraints and the need to use existing stock, all contribute to the decisions made, either from boardroom mandates or the reality of the moment on the shop floor. The logistics must have been staggering. Trying to satisfy the appetite of the US market, which was the priority. (I would like to know if other countries other than the US had people lined up but unable to get a 1970.) Gaining a foothold in the US was the NO.1 objective. They had a thumb on the pulse of the planet and a clear winner of a product. They met the challenge, rapidly expanding and evolving. The production numbers tell the story. I guess, "WHEN IN ROME-DO AS THE ROMANS DO" would apply here, but would still need a common term.

That's exactly what happened. I just removed the front valance panel assembly from my 10/70. The drivers side looks identical to the one pictured. I can clearly see the stress cracking of paint on the backside. The passenger side is undamaged. Also, there was a front spoiler mounted. I think a cone got caught up in between the tire and corner valance at one time.

26th-Z - I suspect this subject will be debated and researched for as long as these cars exist. We will never fully know the causes and circumstances of the production of these cars. When the first ones rolled out the door in 1969, I had just begun a new job as a Production Scheduler for Chrysler Corporation. I can tell you first hand about the many, many inconsistancies that occur before, during and after a model change. The Japanese were no different, in fact, they modeled themselves after ever other successful manufacturer. It still happens today, to a much lesser extent and is properly documented. The documentation from Japan in 1969? This is a very interesting topic, with a lot of opinions and less fact.

Dogma - I only stated the build date which can be pinpointed almost to the day, by comparing the VIN with several 09/70-10/70 cars that have survived to this day. Along with sold/titled date in 1970, it only updates the data of Carl's "Production Changes article. I have collected and restored Mopars for more than 40 years and always loved the early Z's and bought this one on impulse. I had the same mindset as Arne and simply wanted an early Z for the same reasons. I could care less if it's a series 1,2,3,4 or whatever. I only refer to it as a series 1 because that seemed to be the general consensus. Thanks for the tip on restoring the heat grids on the B/Glass. I've got a few that need to be done.

Dogma - I only stated the build date which can be pinpointed almost to the day, by comparing the VIN with several 09/70-10/70 cars that have survived to this day. Along with sold/titled date in 1970, it only updates the data of Carl's "Production Changes article. I have collected and restored Mopars for more than 40 years and always loved the early Z's and bought this one on impulse. I had the same mindset as Arne and simply wanted an early Z for the same reasons. I could care less if it's a series 1,2,3,4 or whatever. I only refer to it as a series 1 because that seemed to be the general consensus. Thanks for the tip on restoring the heat grids on the B/Glass. I've got a few that need to be done.

Without a schematic diagram on hand I can tell you this. If the relay clicks, that means the control side of the relay is working. All that is needed then, is a good ground connection and power feed to the starter. First, check for voltage at the starter. If sufficient voltage is present and the connection is good, check your grounds. If this checks out OK, the issue is with the starter. The worn ignition switch was probably a separate problem. Good luck.

Greetings all. I know this is not the proper forum to introduce myself. I have been visiting this most excellent site for a few years, finally joining a few months ago. I've been absorbing a vast amount of your collective knowledge and experience, which is greatly appreciated. I have just begun the restoration of a Series 1. It is HLS30 011730, with a build date of 10/70. This car was sold/titled in 1970. Just an update to the link Carl provided (Production Changes). I hope to keep in touch as the project progresses. Ron