racebird1

I agree with all above that car will kill you financially. It's not possible to do a cheap repair on that kind of rust.

Whats up with the west coast I always thought there were more Z's out there. Looks like EAST COAST RULES to me. The race is on. Thanks Arn for pinning me up.

I am not quite sure but the above may be a little differant because the 76 does not have all the speakers. I will check in my manual diagraphm for a 76 and get back

When you get that panel off there is a lever that you need to simply push down and it should pop open. when you turn the key you are turning the latch to line up with that lever and when you push the button it is simply pushing in onto that lever. There is a adjuster bolt on the latch I don't see how but maybe something came out of adjustment. Once you get that panel off you should be able to look in there to see what is going on.

Another thing to check mainly because you were in the engine just make sure nothing happened to the timing chain. Just make sure it still has the tension on it at that it is still timed.

You could have dirty contacts in the multi function switch. Sometimes this is not as easily found as one might think because when you use a tester you usually push hard enough to get a good contact but just normal pressure from the switch contacts isn't enough. I don't have a manual for a 79 so I can't tell you where the relay or wires might be.

Something may be giving the computer the wrong signal so it might not be getting the right air to fuel mixture so if you can determine what is off then you might be able to determine what could be sending bad info. Has this car been running good up to now or are you trying to get it going after it's been sitting for awhile. Has the timing been played with. Make sure there isn't somewhere else air could be getting sucked into the intake manifold such as a vaccum line. Check for water in the distributor.

I have just been approached about buying a 76 z as a parts car. I am told it's all their complete just let the rust get the best of it. I have no idea what it looks like but is told it's complete and stock. The interior is supposed to be good. So without seeing it what do you think it might be worth. When I see it I will determine to part it or use it as a resale investment.

You probably won't be able to turn it by pushing on a piston. You will probably need to put a socket or wrench on the crank bolt and you should not have much trouble turning it from there. Just watch your timing chain is it still in there can't really see everything in the picture.

You must check your fuel pressure first at the intake somewhere after the fuel filterand you need at least 36 psi to even begin to run properly. next make sure there are no NO! cracks or leaks in the boot from the air flow meeter to the throttle body Then the next question is what does it need done to keep it running and what is that giving the engine more air less air more fuel less fuel. Then just about everything that sends information to the computer need tested. It sounds like you have some sort of a intermitent problem. Good luck

That is the common air dam that many of us have.

It takes some force to pull out the wrinkles. They apear to be that the foam got crushed from being rolled up. I was hoping it would spring back. Imay need to pull off the foam and put new foam on. I think a word of advise here is to be careful what you buy for your restoration when it may be awhile before you actually need it. I checked on this thing a few months back and it was fine and now it looks like crap.

Check fuel pressure may have sucked junk into the fuel system and no you cannot have any cracks in the boot from the air flow meter to the throttle body because there is no way for the enging to know how much air it's getting.

Hey Katcarl that make you the closest Z owner that I know of. I have not seen a Z on the road around here in years. I know there must be a few but I don't know where they are.

I have a new headliner from Too Intense I had it in the original box rolled up (not folded) for about 1 year I took it out to install it and it has wrinkles in the foam backing which show on the finish side of the vinly. I have laid it out in the sun for a day and have it laying out for several days now and there still there. Any suggestions or are these perminant? Thanks

The best bet is get a factory service manual it's hard to troubleshoot electrical issues without one. Don't forget to check all the fusible links under the hood on the right fenderwell. I had similar issues when restoring mine and found that a lot of contacts in switches and sockets just get oxidized over time not corroded just oxidized. The dash light may not work due to poor contacts in the multi function switch. If you are careful you can take it apart and clean them. Watch out you don't loose the small springs.

Check inside the glove box for the key code my 76 I had way back when the factory put the key code in the glove box.Maybe by chance it's there.

As long as what is under there is solid and it hasn't been repainted several times you should be able to give a sand to get it cleaned up. You are changing the color so with some body filler showing you will need a coat of primer to get it all the same color before you paint. It really pays to use prep solvent to get any wax off before you sand. You don't want to leaving it on the paint because depending on how much you sand it won't all be gone. Any bare metal should be primed with a self etching primer or etch the metal or it will peel in a few months. Before spraying make sure to sand it down to at least 320 grit or you will see sanding marks.

Anything you try I stongly suggest you do a test on the back of one of the panels. I have even found that spray nine can leave them dull and whiteish. Some thinners will start to desolve the plastic but if left alone will harden back up to a shinny finish. I dulled one up with cleaner and then had to spray back over it with black vinyl paint to get it back to original finish but it looks good.

The floor temp sensor is under the passenger seat. Some things like headlights just might not work because of oxidized contacts. Don't worry to much about them for now. I have mine a little apart right now or I would disconnect the sensor and see if it would still start. Maybe tomorrow. Check your fuses and there are fusible links under the hood they need to be there and good. They are usually under 2 square white plastic caps on the right fender well. Also make sure the Battery is fully charged. Might need to give more details as to what your abilities are and what you all tried. Might be able to talk you through some things over the phone.

The contour of the mounting straps don't look like it will go on a 75 to 78 bumper. Those edges are a bit more square that your bar

Those hoses are for the heater controls. some go to those solenoid valves, that long vac canister and to heater flap and to manifold torwards the brake booster. I don,t have a exact drawing with me but it is in the FSM

I tried the weatherstrip adheasive and that is not the same it gets skinned over and doesn't stay sticky. Where can I get the monkey tape or rope calk? Thanks

There was a brown 77 Z sitting down the road from me for about 3 years and I kept wondering to myself what was he going to do with that. I should stop one day and ask. I never did and one day about 3 and 1/2 years ago it was gone and a old beat up piece of crap truck was in it's place and is still there today. About 2 and 1/2 years ago a co worker was asking arround work if anybody was interested in a old Datsun that was in a garage at a house he bought from his neighbor. Weeks went by and he asked again then he said it was a 280z and it took another week or so untill curosity got the best of me. I stopped up to see it and that was all it took I bargined a deal to buy it and a Wave Runner for 500 dollars and sold the Wave Runner 2 weeks later for 700. It has 41,000 original miles and has not been on the road since 1987. Original miles was verified by condition of original factory tires and condition and wear of other original parts. It will be completed this spring.

Looking to figure out what to use to stick the plastic to the door before putting on the door panel. I didn't want to just use silicone I was looking for something like the original black stuff that stays sticky forever. They still use it on cars today but what is it and where can I get some? Thanks