76Datsun280z

Since you're going to have the assembly appart to replace the parts, I'd say you might as well replace them.

Found this and thought you guys might like to see it and read a little about it. 370z doesn't sound right to me, http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=2&article_id=6753

Congrads!! Once he learns to drive the Z, he'll be asking ya' all the time!

That's exactly what my car gets when I only drive in stop and go traffic and I'm heavy on the thottle and accelerate hard. Highway is about 20 because it's nears 4000 rpm with the 4 speed. You can also do simple things like checking your tire pressure.

You might try MSA, they might have them.

That's good you go it fixed! Stephen, what size exhaust tip do you have on yours? I've always thought it looked like a 3" tip.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Near-Mint-Original-Datsun-240z-Rare-and-right-colors_W0QQitemZ130216109725QQcmdZViewItem

What suspension set up are you running? Sits nice.

Looks real nice and clean Jared!

Sounds sweet!

Is the passenger side floor wet?

Nice, sounds like a fun day for you tommarow.

Or just plug the part number in on the Nissan.cc website and order it there.

That's cool, but really sucks that it's just limited to just the 240 and not the 260 and 280. We should start a registry for the these two other models...

Is there such thing as a national Z registry?

Looks like a real nice Delorean.

Drive mine every day and even once or twice in the snow comming home from work. Really looking forward to warmer weather though!

He means a '57 Chevy Belair of coarse!:nervous:

Congrads!! You sure got a steal on it, sounds like you've got some big plans for it too!

1967 Shelby GT500 Eleanor. I get the goosebumps just from looking at it.

For any 280z owners that are in need of fuel injection help, please refer to these links and information given on this page before you make a post in the help section so you will have a better understanding of how the fuel injection system works on your car. By doing this, it will in hope give you a better understanding of what the problem is and when you do post your question, it will in return give our fuel injection guru's a better understanding of what the problem is on your car. Electronic Fuel pump- Pumps fuel from the tank to the engine Fuel Damper- Acts as "muffler- that is, it keeps pressure surges from making noises which could be heard by the driver Fuel Filter- Filters out particles in the fuel before reaching the inectors Fuel injector- Spray fuel into the combustion chamber Dropping Resistor- Causes a voltage drop so that the injector operates on less battery voltage and also protects the injector from voltage surges coming from the alternator from the effects of other parts in the electrical system. Electronic Control Unit (ECU)- Controls the injectors by turning their ground on and off. Governs how much fuel is injected by holding the injectors open for longer or shorter periods of time. Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)- Keep the pressure in the fuel system to a constant 36 psi. Air Flow Meter (AFM)- Measures the amount of air coming into the intake mainifold. The more air passing through, the farther the flap inside will be pushed open. Idle speed screw- Use it to adjust the idle speed Throttle Position Switch(TPS)- Contains a set of contacts inside that tell the ecu if the engine is either idling or declerating. Water Temperature Sensor- Allows the ecu to richen the mixture until the engine arrives at opperating temperature. Air Temperature Sensor- Measures the temperature of the air coming in from the air cleaner. Cold Start Valve- A seventh injector to add additional fuel on a cold start up. Only gets current when the starter is cranking. Thermotime Switch- the thermotime switch has a coil that begins to heat up when it gets a signal from the starter but only when the coolant temperature is below 35 deg. C. and will only operate for a maximum of 8 seconds at which point the cold start valve will close. It really doesn't have anything to do with the mixture other than allowing the fuel to flow through the cold start valve during that duration. Air regulator- Allows the engine to be at a fast idle to aid in warm up. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techti...ectionbook.pdf http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techti...e_Bulletin.pdf

I pulled the MJ167 a/c compressor out of our old 260z parts car and sent it out to this place and had it rebuilt. http://www.directauto.com/category-exec/category_id/43/search_model/280Z/ I think we payed around $200.

Real nice Fairlady

I use my '76 280z as a daily driver and it works great, I couldn't say more. It's my first car, so I've been driving it for two years now and not once has it ever broken down or left me stranded. My dad and I have done a whole lot to it both mechanically and cosmetically since I got it four years ago from what it used to be, which of would account for why it's been so reliable. Just expect little things to happen every now and then as would happen with any 30+ year old car and as long as you're ok with that, then I think you would be real happy with the 280z as they make a really fun and reliable daily driver.