obxtrainman

I just changed the oil pan gasket. I painted the engine block, and engine compartment while I was at it. I now have a big gear oil spot under the car. It looks like its coming from between the dust cover and the front of tranny. I'm going to assume it's the front oil seal in the tranny. Now for the big question, how hard is it to change once the tranny is dropped?

After removing my Ztherapy Carbs to replace the old insulators. my rear choke started to stick open. I noticed the carb was laying on it's side while doing this. I've examined the carb. I just don't see what is causing this. I'm hoping it isn't internal. It doesn't do it all the time. Say maybe 50%. Any suggestions as to what I upset?

Nice job, the car looks great!:classic:

It's an older repaint. It shines after a rain. Hopefully I'll be getting her painted soon. The Z, not my wife. I'm actually in Currituck. I'm a little ways off of the beach. I lived over there for 13 years, it was long enough. I'm about 5 miles north of the Wright Memorial bridge. I'd say probably 5 or so as the crow flies. I still wish I had a nice garage to keep her in. Mine is big enough for a bicycle. OBX

Here's one more. OBX

One more try OBX

My two beauties Can't get it to work. Can't find the delete button.

Just turned 49,000. It had around 47,500 on it when I bought it. It is documented by the original inspection slips.

The replacement Ztherapy carbs are early 4 screw round top. No, I am not sure of the tank. I plan to drop it once it goes to paint, have it boiled and sealed at radiator shop. Do I need one, the other, or both. As in fuel pumps. Thanx for clearing up the issue about the fuel pumps Beandip. My original setup was flat top 73 SU's. So apparently I had the electric pump also. Now I am running early roundtops. So I can maybe get by with just the new mechanical pump???

We're talking about a 1973 Datsun 240Z. Some background on the car. An old man/ dealer had bought the car at a show 12 years ago. He drove it home some eight hour drive, then stored it for the last eleven years. His people had been working on it some when I happened upon it. He sold it to me after I talked to him for some time about it. I was told they had been having problems keeping it running. Then they figured out it was trash in the tank. They had finally swapped the tank for a so-called refurbished tank from Washington state. This is where I step in. They have an aftermarket electric pump (rated at 5-9 PSI) mounted in the engine bay. In the Haynes manual it says the 240Z had a mechanical fuel pump. It also says the 260Z had a supplementary electric fuel pump that at engine speeds above 400rev/min (cranking) worked with mechanical pump. I read this as saying it worked together during normal running. Not as a booster to get the fuel to engine compartment on startup, then not powered after initial ignition. The BD catalog refers to the 240, and 260 as having two fuel pumps, one mechanical in the engine compartment, and one electronic pump located in the rear near the fuel tank. However they don't list an electronic fuel pump for said cars. Only for 1975 - 1996. My 240Z has two unused wires near the fuel tank, and an in-line fuse holder beside of the fuse panel. It is marked fuel with a stick on paper label. Is everyone with me so far??? I allowed my neighbor to talk me into blocking off the intake side of the newer looking mechanical fuel pump one evening. The pump had nothing connected to it. At that point in time, the pump had good suction on the intake side. Me being an idiot, went along with his suggestion. Even though the car had been working fine, and the pump didn't seem to be causing a problem at that time. I only had the intake blocked off for minimal running and driving. A few evenings at the most. I then decided it might harm the pump, and since I didn't see how it could damage it if unblocked ... I just disconnected the electric pump, and hooked the mechanical pump back up. This is the only time the mechanical pump has been connected since I have owned this car. It ran the fuel out of the carbs, and emptied the clear filter, then ran out of gas. I've been having problems getting the new Ztherapy carbs adjusted, and running properly. My gut feeling for quite some time has been leaning toward fuel setup. I quess my question is. What is the original setup? Do I need a second pump in the back, near the tank? I've ordered a mechanical pump from NAPA. I am also running out of hair to pull out. Any suggestions??? OBX

Oh Yeah, Too sweet!

No I haven't tested the pressure. I was just looking at pumps on JC Whitney site. They have a couple that will get me down to the right range. One was for 1.5 thru 3.5, and one at 2.5 thru 4.5. Two different types, one for $45.00, and one for $103.00. The only fuel pressure regs they showed were rated 20 lbs- maximum, any way expensive. Where the car is now, It's sounds great in the driveway, and on the street here. But when I get out on the road, and up to cruising speed, there is a slight bump, hesitation. I don't know what to call it. I can feel the car just kind of jerk a little every so often. It changes how hard and often with different adjustments on the carbs. I'd take it to a real mechanic if there was one down here on the beach. One I asked said he would have to borrow a synch tool:stupid: Another told me I sounded like I had more info than he did. ECT, ECT, ECT. None of them are familiar with the dual carbs. After my guy messed with it, it wouldn't even idle after I got home, I had to start all over:stupid: I will not give up

Thanx for the reply Beandip. I'm not questioning your knowledge. However, I am wondering if the pump pulling the fuel so far, instead of pushing it, won't cut the pressure down somewhat. Any thoughts? With what you did say. It would explain why when I used the colortune, I had to have the mixture nuts almost shut off to see any blue. I never did get a true solid blue color while trying to use the colortune. I had called Steve from Ztherapy, he told me the first thing to do was drain the oil in the dampers, and use ATF. I still haven't called him back yet. The weather has been terrible here for awhile. It seems the only nice weather has been during the work week. I still haven't ruled out the points at this point either. Since I put in the BD reman distributor, I 've noticed that I have to set the points at .017 just to get 36 degrees of dwell. Not to mention, it seems I'm not truly getting the heel of the point to stop on the highest point of the cam. I wish I knew how to make a remote to turn the engine over, it would make it much easier. I have an idea of how, but not sure. In the end, I'm sure I will find it has been something stupid, or a combination of stupid things causing me to not achieve proper tuning (ZBliss) OBX

I have an aftermarket electric fuel pump mounted in the engine compartment. I know this isn't ideal. This pump is rated at 5-9 pounds of pressure. I am aware that my dual SU setup should be using around 3 pounds of pressure. My question is. What, if any, symptoms would the over pressure pump cause? Thanx in advance to any responses. OBX

The paint job I thought I'd have had done by last Christmas, and the last two bits of suspension, mustash bar bushings, and front differential mount. Oh yeah, and the running correctly issue, as in , timing or is it carb adjustment???:disappoin

Anyone know where I can find an oil pan for sale . I've been searching, and so far all I've found are performance pans. I've seen 7, and 8 quart pans for between $550, and $750. I just need a stock pan that isn't pieced together with strips of aluminium. OBX

The reason I'm thinking timing is because my mechanic test drove it, and told me it was definitely secondary ignition problem. I did have a bit of stumble before I changed the carbs once in awhile. All the ignition parts are new,coil,wires,NGK plugs, voltage regulator,reman dizzy. I've put all new vacuum lines on. By the way, why does the damper oil level always drop below the top of the small tube down inside the dome. The cars sounds great at idle. The carbs sound right on. I don't know what lean or rich sounds like. I have never tuned carbs before. This is why I took it over to my friend. The Town of Nags Head motor pool mechanics supervisor. Quite frankly he was amazed at how well I had tuned them. I watched the video about 10 times, at least the actual tuning part. I'm using 20wt machine oil from hardware store in the dampers by the way.

I'm sure this has been beat to death. I've done many searches already. I had set my timing to 10BTDC, with the dwell around 36. The car was running pretty darn well. At this point, I've put in the new Ztherapy carbs. I now have a bit of a cough. I had reset the dwell to a little higher degrees. I can't really get to the higher end of the spectrum. I had to drop the point gap to .017 just to get to 37 degrees of dwell. My new reman dizzy has a number that doesn't list in the Haynes manual. I'm going to reset the timing to 7BTDC and then readjust the carbs one more time. Other than that, I don't know what to do. I guess I could just keep trying different timings, point gaps, and carb adjusments.:disappoin OBX

I stand corrected! I kept seeing "NISMO" on this site: I thought it was anacronym for Nissan Motor Company. I most certainly meant OEM Parts, as in parts from Nissan Motor Company???????????????

I called Courtesy Nissan a little earlier. They still produce both cylinders. After I returned home and had a better look at the car; I was pleased to see that the master cylinder looks much newer than the brake cylinder. It is still fairly new looking. It also has a big made in Japan molded into it. It was empty of fluid, also a sigh of relief. I was able to look through the engine compartment and determine that the slave cylinder is wet. The hose is very dry and cracked also. Hopefully this won't have to be a complete clutch rebuild at this time.:classic:

Hey fellas, My clutch went out yesterday. I've been researching all day on parts. Black Dragon doesn't even list the master cylinder. Nismo master is $72, Napa is $42.00. Nismo slave is 42.00, NAPA is $13.07, BD is $20.00. BD 3in1 clutch kit is $140.00, NAPA is $123.28, Nismo sells the clutch plate assy. for $71.00, Pressure assy. for $141.00, and the release bearing for $29.00. I haven't really looked at it yet, to know exactly what gave out. If it is just one of the cylinders, or the hose, it should be an easy fix. I guess my main question is: Should I use the OEM parts? How old would these parts be? Have they set on a shelf letting any rubber seals degrade? How old are the clutch plates? Would newer, aftermarket, modern plates be made of a better material? The NAPA cylinders are new parts. Just wondering what you gentlemen think about this subject. Thanks in advance for any input. OBX

A couple of you dudes are truely warpedLOL:smoke:

I'd love to go ahead and swap out the mani for some gleaming new headers:laugh: However at this time, if I did, my wife would probably leave meLOL She is a chinese lady. She refers to my almost 35 year old classic sports car as "your trash car". I truely did buy this Z for her. I've already put a very conciderable amount of time and money into it. Along the way of working on this car. I said OK, since it's such a trash car, I'll keep it for me Honey Bunny. Something tells me after I do get everything completed. It will be more like, Kenny, my car looks so nice, thank you:stupid:

The research I've done over the last two days has led me to believe the fittings are a " you aint allowed to remove me size". When I first looked at this situation; I thought to myself, cut them off short, crimp them , and solder them tight. My professional, anal retentive side then kicked in and said, do it right. Thats when I started to look into removing the contraption, and plugging it properly. Well guess what? I want to see and hear my new carbs. I think I'll cut and seal them. I can always go back later and do it properly. I just don't want to get into removing whole engine with 50,000 origininal miles to make it pretty with paint and headers and new exhaust. From what I did learn, the fittings were to stop us from removing smog control. Metric anything doesn't fit, nor SAE. That is just removing, not even concidering plugging. I knew all along, after removing, easiest plug would be to tap to SAE thread size. After three days of continually hitting it with blaster; then not even getting good fit with a decent wrench to remove them, I think I'll fall back and punt. Buy the way, my new Ztherapy carbs are "sexier than socks on a rooster":laugh:

I'm in the process of replacing my carbs with ztherapy carbs, balance tube, heat shield. I figure this is the oppertune time to get rid of that unsitely rail over top of all the new pretty stuff I'm going to put on. I would think that the tubes leaving the rail connect to the manifold by means of inverted flare nuts. Therefore, I feel that the fittings are metric pipe size. I figure I have two options after the fittings are removed. A, Try to find metric pipe plugs. Or B, tap the holes to SAE pipe threads. I soaked the fittings three times yesterday with blaster,,I'm going to hit them again tonight a few times. Meanwhile I'll search the net for metric size plugs. This project just keeps getting bigger and bigger:lick: