RC7

That's the truth! I removed the diff's front support with a 14mm socket while supporting the bracket with a jack. With the rear end also on a jack, a took a 17mm ratcheting wrench & loosened (but did not remove) the bolts that attach to the sway bar. Then I put the front of the driveshaft into the rear of the transmission. I lowered/adjusted both jacks to a particular point & then raised the driveshaft & voila! I bolted it up & then I jacked everything back up & the rear end slid back a little on the studs that bolt up the sway bar. I tightened up the rear sway bolts & it looks set. That 17mm ratcheting wrench I bought at Sears this morning was worth the drive. My regular set didn't have the 17. Those things are great & saved me some frustration on the sway bar bolts. I've got the part numbers for the driveshaft bolts so I'm going to order a new set tomorrow & hopefully they'll be in by early next week. Now that I know what I'm doing, I should be able to lower everything & put it back in place with new bolts in a relatively short time. Thanks for all of the suggestions. It was all part of the process.

I'll double check the diff mount, though I specifically remember the little "F" on the mount. Like I said, this is the first time I've done a total rebuild on any car, & I've learned a lot about how these things work. I'm intent on doing it right so I'll be honest & admit I've done some things more than once (even three times) to get it right. I think you're right Guy, it's "something simple" & it's most likely an error on my part. If I can get around to it this weekend, I'm going to double check the mount & see what I can do to move the thing back a little. I'm not sure what I'm going to try first, but I'll just take it one step at a time & see what happens. I'm just very uncomfortable being underneath the car being on jack stands. Sometimes I think I'm too cautious under there. Happy Holidays to all!

No, it's the same mustache bar. I marked the driveshaft with it seated in the transmission. I then seated it in another 4spd that I have. The marks lined up perfectly. So either the transmission is sitting too far back or the rear end is sitting too far forward. I'm hoping it's the former but betting on the latter. I'm going to have to go through the rear end of the car & find out what's off. I don't understand what could've been done to shift the diff forward, but obviously it's something. I guess I'm going to have to start over there & see what I can find that maybe isn't properly tightened down.

I've tried to attach a picture. The rear end was taken out when I had the underbody redone, but the rear bar is on correctly. All of the rear suspension parts lined up pretty well. There isn't any trash in the female side & the splines are clean. I also checked a spare transmission & the rear seal is giving plenty of clearance. It's been a while because I'm working on it intermittently, but if memory serves, when I put in the new rear mount insulator, I unbolted the two front diff bolts & it lowered.

I just mean that the driveshaft seems to be about 1/4" too long at this point, using the width of the flange as an visual. Not a good example I suppose. The front end of the shaft feels like it's all the way in the transmission. But then, I read where some person suggested to another to have the transmission in neutral. I didn't check that and I'm pretty sure the shifter was placed in gear. I've just never done a driveshaft before and I'm learning as I go. I'm just uncertain on how much force I should use before I decide that I need to start over.

I'm trying to install a driveshaft on a 72 240. Everything is stock and it's the same one that came out of it. I have it seated well in the front, the rear end on jack stands, and the parking brake off to allow for free movement. I can't get the thing in because it's a flange length too long! I've read my manuals and they all say to take it out and install is reverse. I don't know how hard I'm supposed to try and force it in. Of my internet research, the only thing I could find that was suggested was to have the transmission in neutral. Most searches I found were about swaps. It was in gear when I tried it earlier and I have not tried it in neutral. Is there a thread on here, or anyone, who can give me some advice on things I should be checking or doing? I am a little embarrassed about this one, despite it being my first time doing this. Thanks

Gentlemen, thank you for the help. I adjusted the clutch & put the plate back on, transmission lined up tight, & all is well until it's time to put it all back in the car. What had happened, only because it happened again tonight, is that I was not pushing the tool far enough in, & as I was torquing the pressure plate it slipped out. Caught it, fixed it, & I'll be ready to install it once I get another pair of hands over here to help. Thanks again.

I'm going to try & post a couple of pictures to try & show what I'm talking about. I'm no photographer so bear with me. Look on the rounding of the splines on the bottom of the clutch. I think that's where I was doing the rubbing trying to get it on while it was at the wrong angle.

Well I pulled the engine out again tonight. I think the splines on the clutch are the problem. I took some pictures but they weren't clear enough to see. First, the transmission splines are ok, I checked them thoroughly. But the clutch splines aren't sharp in spots, & look like they've been flattened a little in those spots. That's the best I can describe it. I'm willing to guess that it happened because I was trying to install the thing on the wrong angle & I probably did the damage the first time trying. I guess I'm going to order a new new one tomorrow. Just one more thing, I don't remember specifically, but now the clutch alignment tool doesn't go all of the way into the clutch, only about a half inch. Shouldn't the tool go further into the clutch than that? Edit: And Prox, it's a manual all the way.

Has anyone really been dumb enough to try & start the motor while in my predicament? I sure hope not. The transmission's in neutral & I've spun the shaft, but NOT while I was trying to put it in the motor. I don't think anything's "razzed" up because I've taken it in & out before w/o a problem, albeit with some assistance, that's why I've got to get someone over here to help. It's still on two jacks (Front & Rear) & has a strap assisting with the rear through the shifter hole. After thinking about it longer, I'm wondering if either sblake's right that I need to "hit the right angle/pitch" because it's tough while on your back & no room to maneuver around. It's a cheap aftermarket clutch, which also makes me look into GreenZZZ's problem, but I got it on the back side of the block fairly easy.

I'll try to get someone to help me tomorrow with that. Thanks for the suggestion.

Yes, the gap is even all around. The transmission is in neutral. I have not tried turning the motor. Are you suggesting that I have someone turn the motor at the crank pulley & see if I can get the spline to go in the last little bit?

I feel stupid for this, I really do. I'm putting my 4spd back in my '72 today. I can't get the transmission back on. I've done this before, I know it's not rocket science. I've put on a new clutch, using an alignment tool. When I put the transmission back, I can't get it to lock back into place against the block. I'm about a half inch back all of the way around. The mounting bracket holes on the transmission are, you guessed it, a half inch back from where they should be. The standard bolts I'm using to try & bolt it to the block are just touch too short & they just touch the block when fed through the bell housing & the metal plate. Could I have done something wrong installing the clutch? Am I just not "working" the transmission enough? Should I get some longer bolts & try to "draw" the transmission back to the block & then replace them with the standard ones? The transmission is being held up with two jacks right now, sitting in the engine with the motor being steadied by an engine hoist. My arms are exhausted & my nerves are shot on this one.

I'm putting the oil pan & timing cover back on today on my stock L24. I've read Humble's book as well as these & other forums and I am a little confused. I have the Nissan oil pan gasket as well as the Nissan timing cover gaskets, still in their Nissan packs. On the oil pan I plan on using a thin line of the Permatex 2 on the oil pan side of the gasket & applying the cork gasket directly to the block. Regarding the torquing, I can't find the most proper pattern in which to and how much torque to apply when tightening the bolts. I was planning on going opposite sides with my hands until I get all of the bolts in. From what I've read, the oil pan bolts are to be torqued 5-7 lbs? On the timing cover, my manual says with pictures to put dabs of sealant in specified spots, on the timing cover side I presume. But it's just drops & not a line. If I am to use a sealant, what type specifically? I think RTV here would be a no-no. I want to avoid any leaks of course, but I want to do it right the first time too.

Yes, I was going to put some type of sealant on there before I tightened it down. I didn't put it on there of course because I was skeptical with it getting tight at 3 o'clock. At 12 o'clock I wouldn't have been concerned. I feel a little better now. What type of sealant would you recommend? I would think something different than normal thread locker because it deals with water but I could be wrong.

I have a new water elbow to install on the rear pass. side of my motor. I can only hand tighten it to about 3 o'clock. Now, I know that it needs to be tightened further counter-lockwise to 10 o'clock. That'll be nearly a half turn of resistance. Is that right? I don't want to mess up the threads or anything.

I have an early '72 I'm redoing & a late '70 for parts. Some time ago, I removed my fuel lines from the tank to the front & lost them. I thought I wouldn't have a problem because I'd just pull them off of my '70, which leads to my question: The '70 only had two hard fuel lines, that would reach back to the fuel tank. I only "remember" taking two off of my '72, the same two I had on my '70. The one I am missing, according to the microfiche, it says "Tube-Air Supplier," #8 (can't copy just the page to show, Sec 15-2) & goes to the front, across the firewall, & into the carb area. It doesn't come from the fuel tank, it comes from the front part of the evap tank in the pass. side pillar. The two that I have are the ones that go on the passenger side, into the filter & the pump, starting from the fuel tank. I've got the feeling I'm going to have to get this line from somewhere & hang it in there. Thanks for the help, & the insults for asking a question like this.

I'm paranoid about working under the car. My 240Z is of course too low for me to get underneath. What I've got to do is remove the metal fuel lines from a parts car & put on my car. I know about getting on a solid level surface, using jacks stands rather than floor jacks, etc. But my experience is that it's tough to get the floor jacks placed just right on an S30. I don't feel comfortable because I feel they are too close together for any jerking of parts or something. Is this how all of you work underneath your car? Have any of you considered placing or stacking multiple squares of 2x6" wooden blocks under the corners of to help support the floor jacks?