5 Star Rising

Annnnnnd the answer to this 2004 solution is no longer available. Bummer

Good for you man. Score!! I had a pretty good score last year as well. Picked up a running driving rust free series 1 240z. (Early 71) 12/70. Got it from a local tow yard for $500. Still can't believe it.

Old thread with no result lol...I'm having the same issue with my early 71 240z. Im get a buzzing sound out of the wiper motor relay that is mounted to the motor. It happens when the wiper switch is off and the ignition is on. When I click the wipers to the on position they work fine and the buzz goes away in either slow or fast. The minute I turn off the switch the buzz starts. My old wiper motor was seized I couldn't turn it at all with a wrench in either direction. I had a spare wiper motor in my garage that I had for years, I could turn that shaft one direction slowly with a wrench. Heres the other thing. My old motor had 5 wires and the motor that I found in my garage has 6 wires..I notice an additional yellow wire for the park I assume, but my series 1 harness is only set up for 5 wires could this be my issue? Thanks **update. I put my old wiper motor on the bench ,cracked it open and sprayed some electronics cleaner lube in it and on the relay. Tapped on it with a hammer, and adjusted the worm gear. Sat it on the fender and made a temporary plug out of 5 spaded male connectors. Plugged it into the harness, hit the switch and it works great. No buzz anymore and no RPM gauge bouncing all over. Seemed like the first click on the switch was fast and the second was slow speed but oh well. Wonder if I should put it back in the car or try to still mess with the motor that is installed and buzzing. Just worried that the old motor will seize up again down the road. I seen how it is supposed to operate...when you turn the switch off the motor automatically goes into reverse a few spins to seat the wipers. The motor that is in my car doesnt go into reverse it just makes noise. Wondering if that extra yellow wire needs to be connected to make the motor go in reverse or if maybe that motor relay is bad.

Yeah I like the look of the original seats so I may keep looking for a set. This car will not be a daily driver so I guess I can put up with the "not so comfortable" aspect. But I recently got the engine running great for the first time on this restoration and want to take the car for a test drive but I don't have any seats haha. Don't want to jump the gun and just buy anything so I can drive the car around the block. Longest wait ever to drive my Z. Looks like I will be getting a 72 240 and another early 71 240 in a few weeks from some guy who has the cars parked in the forest rotting away. They definitely need work but have a lot of good parts. Series 1 hatch with glass, series 1 seats that need a full resto.. Did I mention both cars delivered for $500!.. Hope this deal goes through haha. Oh and where do I get a set of floor carpet mats that actually fit the Z correctly?

I have a early 71 240z that I'm restoring. Wanting to keep it some what original but having a hard time finding series 1 seats, floor mats and such. Just bought a set of 240z floor mats off the Internet that claimed to be a perfect fit for my 240z, when i got them they looked like a universal matching set of Autozone floor mats. They didn't fit right at all, going to return them.. Anyone know where I can get a perfect fitting set of floor mats that are long and go up part of the floor board firewall like the originals? Seats: I'm torn whether to buy a set of series 1 seats and have them refoamed and covered but then I look at the price to do that and wonder if I should just go aftermarket. What do you guys think? I know it's all personal preference. What about these seats anyone ever buy these and put them in your car? https://www.carid.com/cipher/cpa3001-series-reclinable-steel-tubular-frame-suspension-seat.html?relationshipId=620272484&childId=95363008&gclid=CKL8pu6A3NECFYKJfgodH2cDTw

Got timing set to about 13-15 degrees. Got Air/fuel mix dialed somewhat using this tester. Carbs are almost leaned out all the way. But runs smooth and snappy. Now I got to find a set of 240z seats so I can take it for a test drive haha. Yeah I couldn't believe my eyes when I seen plug wire 3 swapped with 4. Had to check like 3 times as if I had a winning lottery ticket haha. Thanks on the AF tester, pretty cool unit to have in your garage for old cars.

Got timing set to about 13-15 degrees. Got Air/fuel mix dialed somewhat using this tester. Carbs are almost leaned out all the way. But runs smooth and snappy. Now I got to find a set of 240z seats so I can take it for a test drive haha.

Yep, old school

I picked up this new old school unit at a garage sale for 10 bucks to use on my chevelle, gonna come in handle with the 240 as well..

OH MY GOD. I HAD CYL 3 AND 4 ON THE DIST CAP WRONG!! BACKFIRING IS GONE! CAN'T BELIEVE IT WAS SOMETHING SO EAST LIKE THAT. CAR IS RUNNING GOOD, NOW TO FINE TUNE. WHEN I CHANGED THE PLUG WIRES I CAREFULLY CHANGED ONE AT A TIME, BUY THE PRIOR OWNER HAD IT IN THE WRONG PLACE!! THANKS FOR THE FIRING ORDER DIAGRAM

I got this weekend off, so I will start going over everything on sat. Im leaning towards an ignition issue too. I have not checked for powerful spark yet but i will.. I know when you Rev the engine it sounds like there is a slight spudder through out the rpm range, it doesn't have that smooth snap to the throttle response, maybe the firing order is off, but sometimes at idle it runs super smooth but then starts backfiring through tail pipe then through carbs every 15 seconds or so.

I will need help setting the points and backlash of the valves. Is there a link to this info? Haven't done it before. (I had points in my Chevelle but ripped out that dizzy and put in a HEI.)

#1 was white almost, 2 black soot, 3 a little oily, 4 soot, 5 soot, 6 soot

Yes it does..

Come to think of it I had a few vacuum leaks with the small hoses detached on the top picture. I forgot that I took a picture of this a while ago. I had unplugged the pcv valve hose on purpose on the top pic but the other hoses were just chilling. The bottom pics shows everything plugged and that's when the backfiring started. Well the car still ran like crap with those leaks but didn't back fire haha

Come to think of it I had a few vacuum leaks with the small hoses detached on the top picture. I forgot that I took a picture of this a while ago. I had unplugged the pcv valve hose on purpose on the top pic but the other hoses were just chilling. The bottom pics shows everything plugged and that's when the backfiring started. Well the car still ran like crap with those leaks but didn't back fire haha

I have a timing light, actually 3 ..I can't set the timing properly cause I can't get the car to run stable, the rpms drop due to the back fire constantly. Jumped into a car that I don't know the history of. I have yet to do a valve lash adjustment though but I will.. Will this cause the backfire symptoms if they are out of adjustment? The unplugged hose was hanging in the wind, have a feeling it went to the air cleaner some where, which is missing from the car. Do you know off hand what the voltage should be at the balast? And resistance tolerances for the resistor?

Yeah really want to figure it out. I forgot to mention there is headers and a straight pipe out welded to a wide open muffler this thing is loud as hell, but thinking about it, there is no back pressure. I wonder if they had that hose unhooked up front on purpose to offset the backfiring, cause as soon as I plugged it the backfiring started.. Wow can't believe I been a member here since 2006. should probably cruise through this forum more often. Had 9 Zs since then haha. Thanks for the input fellas.

I have a timing light, actually 3 ..I can't set the timing properly cause I can't get the car to run stable, the rpms drop due to the back fire constantly. Jumped into a car that I don't know the history of. I have yet to do a valve lash adjustment though but I will.. Will this cause the backfire symptoms if they are out of adjustment? The unplugged hose was hanging in the wind, have a feeling it went to the air cleaner some where, which is missing from the car. Do you know off hand what the voltage should be at the balast? And resistance tolerances for the resistor?

I have a timing light, actually 3 ..I can't set the timing properly cause I can't get the car to run stable, the rpms drop due to the back fire constantly. Jumped into a car that I don't know the history of. I have yet to do a valve lash adjustment though but I will.. Will this cause the backfire symptoms if they are out of adjustment? The unplugged hose was hanging in the wind, have a feeling it went to the air cleaner some where, which is missing from the car. Do you know off hand what the voltage should be at the balast? And resistance tolerances for the resistor?

So I have a early 71 240z that I bought not to long ago, and it runs but like crap. I have never been able to get it right. First I had an issue with the SUs and the choke being out of adjustment so I fixed that and started to tune the carbs and noticed a huge vacuum leak out of the air tube, one of the ports had a large hose hooked to it that was sucking in tons of air, so I plugged it. As soon as I plugged the port, the motor started running smoother but then started backfiring constantly out of the tail pipe and out of the carbs back and forth, puffs of fuel would come out of the carbs every so often. It was almost like the motor is choking and builds up pressure and then pop! something opens up in the motor and the rpms die down for a few seconds and then back up with back firing. Also when you rev up the car there is a slight spudder through out the RPM range. its not a smooth rev. Things I have done to fix this issue that has not worked: Bought and watched the Just Su's Video. Removed, Cleaned and rebuilt the SUs, Adjusted the Jet needles like the videos covers, Adjusted floats levels in both carbs, replaced needle valves (same issue), and gaskets. Tuned carbs like video covers Replaced the PCV valve Checked for leaks around the throttle shafts while engine is running at low rpm, checked for leaks all over engine with carb cleaner, rpms never raised even checked brake booster hoses. While engine running Moved Distributer completely advanced and then completely retarded and got back firing in all positions Did a compression test with warm engine 165,162,170,165,165,168 PSI New Spark plugs, Plug wires, cap and rotor.. I feel like I'm running out of options, could this be an electrical issue? I remember I couldn't start the car once unless I held the key in the start position, as soon as I let the key go it would die, I think I made some better connections on the ballast resistor and the problem went away, I wonder if the resistor is bad or ignition switch, not sure if it could cause backfiring. What about a anti backfiring valve do you 240 guys use those? HELP!

Yes I will be doing the rest of the tune up this week. Checking TDC and such. I have not worked too much on SU's. Can checking and or adjusting the float levels in the float chambers and lubing the outside of the jet nozzles be done while the carbs are still in the car? O'Reillys has a so called "rebuild kit" for this car in stock locally for a pretty in expensive price. Not exactly sure what comes with it or if its worth getting.

I have a 12/70 71 240z that i bought recently that runs like crap. I do not know the past history of the car or the past owners so I'm starting with a running car that runs, but not great. I have been replacing old parts these last few weeks and in the middle of a tune up. Removed funky electric fuel pump and switched back to a mechanical pump, new fuel filters,new spark plugs and wires, ign cap and rotor, I have not yet done a compression test on the motor. I have fuel going to the carbs and can start the car by pulling the manual choke when cold like normal, but after the car warms up and I open the choke fully the car starts to idle rough and dies out almost like it's getting too much fuel. When I have the car running best is when the choke is slightly pulled back about a quarter of the way. When you Rev up the motor there is a slight spudder or miss through out the rpm ban. Just feels like the carbs are out of tune or not adjusted right. The car lacks that snappy throttle response, and still has a slight miss. I was getting ready to pull the carbs and get a rebuild kit for them but thought I would post this first, I have not rebuild SU's before and may be over looking a few things, like a proper adjustment while on the car. I found a few rebuild threads on here that I will follow, but I'm wondering why the fully open choke kills the motor and what may cause that.