BRE-240Z

Steve, did you find that the mounting points lined up with where your old grille attached? Either my front end got tweaked at some point, or the mount points for the grille are off by a bit. The old grille fits, of course, but then again it's not exactly straight, either....

This is a slightly better shot, I guess.

Thanks. It's not permanently mounted yet....I've been trying to decide whether to stick with it or go back to the OEM grille. It looks a little cleaner and it is different...I've just been trying to decide which grille I like better.

These aren't great pictures, and the car's not all the way back together yet, but I snapped these the day after she was wet-sanded.

Randy, this is very exciting news! Keep us posted.

This thread is seven months old. Do you really think it's going to stay on track? Besides, I'd drive faster with Danica in the car.....

Sydney Moon strikes me as the type who would say that your car smelled funny.... Danica Patrick, on the other hand....now there's a girl who likes the smell of exhaust!

Nice score on the hubcaps, David. I was trying to remember the last time I saw a 610. I would have loved to have found that car when I was looking for a replacement motor for my 510 a few years back.

I'd go nuts if that guy laid across the hood of my car. Whoo boy.

Courtesy Nissan can be reached at 1-888-654-1192. They did have some Euro-spec springs made up a few years back, but I believe that they sold out of them and their web site lists them as being NLA. But it's worth a call.... As Arne said, Black Dragon will have lowering springs (Courtesy lists Eibachs as being in stock, just FYI, which will lower the car about an inch) but they will not have stock springs.

Nice work....the car looks great. Finally got that side mirror off, I see......!

Stephen is right. 'Vapor lock' is basic chemistry (the gasoline gets too hot and boils in the fuel system, essentially, changing state from a liquid to a vapor). Nothing to do with the fuel pump. Do the hood vents have anything to do with aerodynamics (reducing lift)?

Looks like an early air cleaner. I don't see a flapper or a hot air duct. As for the other details of that carb setup, either my eyes are getting old or the photos are too small.....four screws? Maybe?

Ha! That's a nice looking Z, BTW. My car also is traveling slower than what's indicated on the speedo. I haven't had the opportunity to see what a radar gun would measure, but by gauging the speed of the traffic around me, I figure that my speedo is off by about ten percent.

They do inspections here in North Carolina, too, but cars with a 'born on' date of 1973 or earlier are exempt.

I'm guessing that a QQ plate means that he will be exempt from inspection.

I did the same with mine. I read somewhere that they don't like taking a fast charge, so you won't want to be in a hurry. Something about how you should disconnect the charger immediately if the battery starts making hissing noises.....anyway, a nice slow trickle charge is the way to go.

When my car was (very recently) painted, I removed the quarter windows, windshield, and rear window....but not the door windows. Enrique is right about paint lines. Depending on whether you're shooting a couple of panels or the entire car, of course, you should disassemble as much as you can. It will save you money and give you a better result.

Here's a photo of a Fairlady-type grill on my car. Doesn't Z'sondabrain have a nice fabbed-up grille? I think he made it out of strips of aluminum. Might pay to search the archives and see what you turn up.

Getting things to go back together is definitely more difficult than getting them apart. I fought with this for a while before coming up with a better solution. Randy is right about the plate inside the door that interferes with the mirror's baseplate...it's a real pain. What I did was take the screwdriver-style extension that came with my socket kit, put the swivel on that, and then put the nut inside the socket and then stacked the baseplate on top of that. I taped the plate to the nut (using masking tape, that held things together long enough for me to get the nut started onto the mirror), and then I was able to tighten everything down. You'll have to play with the angle a bit before you hit the sweet spot, but the good news is that you don't have to take the door apart.

Yes, it's absolutely possible. You're going to need a swivel socket (13mm I think) and an extension. Pull the door panel, roll the window down, and you'll be able to get at the nut that holds the mirror on.

CB antenna mount, perhaps?

I'm having an electrical problem, and I hope someone can point me in the right direction or give me some better troubleshooting tips than what I currently have in my toolbox. I have a reasonably stock 240Z, with an upgraded alternator (ZSpecialties 105 amp, internally regulated). I drove my car to work on Thursday, and then used her to run a few assorted errands (I figure I put sixty miles or so on the car that day). That evening, I took her out again, and she started running very rough and the gauges started jumping all over the place. I finally babied her off the road (luckily I was on a downhill at the time), and after finally dying....she refused to start. I tried to start her back up, and got an 'Rrrrrt. Click, click'. Then nothing. So at the time, I was thinking that it was the battery that was the problem. A friend came by, and we were able to charge the battery and get the car home. The battery is old and I have no faith in it, but I'm starting to put together a nice little history of bad batteries in the brief time that I've had this car running, and I'm not entirely convinced that the battery is the problem. So today I got the car started (surprised me that she would even fire up, after sitting in the driveway for a couple of days). I let her run for a bit, and then measured the voltage at the battery for a minute or two (it was holding pretty much steady at 11.5 or so, which seems low). Then I pulled the positive cable off of the battery, and the car died immediately. Doesn't this indicate a bad alternator? This alternator is pretty new, I mean it has maybe 100 miles on it, total, since installation. Is there another test that I can do to verify that the alternator is the problem? Is the possibly flaky battery contributing to the problem? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, guys.

My answer to your question is the same as Will's. Do you have photos of the Z that you're looking at? If so, post them here and we will help you dissect the car and come up with a reasonable offer, and also help point out any potential things that you might want to be aware of before purchasing the vehicle.

That's true and I thank you for the compliment. Although if Mike swapped his template on the ClassicZCars site for one that insisted on a black background and reversed text, we'd all need glasses by tomorrow....... I don't want to come off as too negative, which I might have in my post above. I'm just saying that the idea for WingZro's site is a good one, and that if he can figure out a way to execute it well, then it will be more successful.