hd240z

According to zhome.com it was HLS30 172767.

Here is an ebay store in Cali. that says they test and sell modules, but I don't know that they repair them. I always thought they were all sealed up and non-repariable.

I'm no expert, but I'd say mill the L26 head and use it because it is "here". :squareeye The 73 head should be the same as your L26 as far as specs go, if both are original. Generally it is a good idea to mill any used head just to be sure it is true. Some others here on the forum are more knowledgeable and can comment on the specifics of your questions. Good Luck

Did you leave enough room for "kills" on the fender :laugh: Five civics and you could be an ace :beard:

I went out and looked at my series II 240Z (2/71 build) original 4 speed now sitting in the corner of the garage and it looks like geezer's, only the red L mark. My guess is its some kind of quality check(s) marking after the trany was assembled but prior to installation in the car, but thats just me.

One more part you will need is a later style shift boot and mounting ring as the 70-71 boot will not fit after you enlarge the hole and it is too stiff for the throw required by the 5 speed.

My favorite is Darbji's old avatar. :laugh: Where did it go?

Darby, Maybe you can contact new member clayton260 to see if he still has the turbine wheels in his "before" picture. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28107

Easy change over is one of the advantages of pertronix. Running standard points is a viable option as long as you keep them maintained on a regular basis. Switching to a 280zx electronic distributor is easy and can be economical depending on your procurement sources ($10? at a pick & pull), but watch out for worn parts that will run the final cost up.

IIRC the Pertronix unit has a coil resistance specification in their instructions. A resistor is required when the coil resistance is below a certain value to prevent damage to the sensor unit (my presumption). You will need to measure the coil ohms unless it is specified somewhere. I dont know of any way to test the petronix sensor. If it doesnt work replacement is the next option. I have used a pertronix system including their coil on my Nova and it has worked well. I use a 280zx electronic distributor on my 240.

If the two wires go to a module on the side of the distributor and it has markings like E12-80 then its a later 280zx electronic distributor. First check for loose or dirty wire connections to the module. If it still is dead then it is more than likely the module has failed rather than the pickup sensor inside the distributor. Good Luck

It sounds like your pump is not running when it should be. It could be a blown fuse which is usually located under the dash in a separate fuse holder, or possibly the relay, but only the later 73s had relays, or a wiring problem or the pump itself may be bad. Might be easiest to start at the pump and check for 12v and chase the problem from there. Good Luck

What brand of electronic ignition is installed (280z, Crane, Pertronix, other)? If changing the coil and running 12v directly to it did not help then it sounds like the sensor in the distributor or the control module may be the problem. Good Luck

The Big 3 already sell E85 capable vehicles, but they dont make any more horsepower, they just get fewer mpg on E85 because of the lower energy content per gallon. As far as the corn growers getting rich, who would you rather see getting rich, American farmers or OPEC?

I thought someone else would bring this up, but since they haven't I will, its not a 71 like the ad says, its a 72. That VIN number would indicate something like a 11/71 production date making it a 72 model. The console and dash also are not a 71 model. Still a fairly nice car in any case.

Next time you need to scare them off, jump in that good looking red Z and burn some donuts around them. Should be easy in that nice green lawn (Maybe not) :laugh:

FWIW my 2/71 240Z with 62k miles has a cap exactly like Arne's and it resides on a shelf along with the rest of the distributor following an electronic upgrade. As best I can tell it was the original cap as the PO maintenance records dont mention a cap change prior to 1975 when I got it.

The low tech check for the vacuum advance is to remove the cap and pull a vacuum on the diaphragm and see if the mounting plate holding the points moves smoothly about 1/4" where the advance attaches and springs back when the vacuum is released. The mechanical (centrifugal) advance can be checked by twisting the rotor counterclockwise. It should also move about 1/4" at the outer end and spring back when released. The springs and weights are located under the mounting plate which makes them difficult to inspect without disassembling the distributor. Good Luck

I am guessing the car starts and runs since you can read the timing. Is that right? I know this sounds silly, but are you sure you have the timing light connected to the #1 wire and the vacuum hose disconnected? Are you possibly using a high tech timing light which has a dial adjuster for checking total advance (not zeroed for base timing)? You could check the operation of the mechanical and vacuum advance mechanisms inside the distributor, but if they were binding up it would advance the timing not retard it as you are seeing. Good Luck

The hangers on my 240z aftermarket exhaust are most likely different from your 260z, but I have used generic hangers from a local parts store and modified them to the degree needed to work nicely on the car. Good Luck

My 71 (see sig) with 2/71 date also has the round vents in the side, and none in the rear hatch. So when they say "early" they mean really really early :laugh: Actually I think it is the series 1 cars that have the hatch vents and 240Z side emblems. The switch to series 2 was made between January and February 71 or there abouts.

If the choke cables are disconnected it doesnt matter where the lever is. When the cables are connected the console lever will be forward for the "choke off" position and the nozzles will be tight against the bottom of the carbs. I believe the nozzles are spring loaded and should be held in the up position with the cables off, but Im not absolutely sure of that. You might want to check to see if you can move the nozzles up and down by hand. I've not had to adjust my carb floats so I cant help you there. Others here on the board can probably answer that question. Good Luck

Thanks, I'll check it out if I come up empty on the original Z belts.

Just to cover the basics, are you sure the carb choke cables and nozzles are in the up position (warm)?

Hopefully its only a head gasket, but it sounds like it could be a cracked head around an exhaust port, so be sure to look closely when you pull it apart. You might want to do a leak down test before tearing it apart to see what shows up. If its the gasket it will leak air into the cooling system. If its cracked down stream of the valve seat it will not show up during the test. Good Luck