hd240z

Since they stopped using prison labor to make the plates the cost has gone out of sight One plate per car is a savings of 50%. Looks good on your performance review. Nebraska has now started using smooth flat metal plates instead of the embossed letter/number plates of old which I would bet was a cost driven decision. Guess they dont care if the plates can be read after a fire.

.016to .020" according to my 71 service manual. I would guess 73 would be the same.

Here is a link to a previous discussion on drive shaft lengths. It also mentions the drive shaft dust shield as a possible cause of the rubbing. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23543 Good Luck

Jack, If it seems to be firing on only 3 cylinders, then the choke on one of the carburators is probably not adjusted properly or sticking part way. Check for the cables moving both tubes on the bottom of the carbs the same amount when the choke lever is pulled. You will probably have to remove the air cleaner housing to see tubes properly. I had to clean the gunk off the outside of my tubes to get them to work freely and cold start better, but it still takes several seconds of cranking and I use two pumps, electric in the back and the stock mechanical pump.

If the problem started immediately after the swap, I would guess the drive shaft is too long. It should have about and inch of free movement lengthwise.

It may not be cracked all the way through since I dont see any black exhaust deposits around the crack, but it will probably only get worse. Maybe its the Z-gods way of telling you it needs a nice set of headers

Great video, makes me want to jump in the Z and take a drive. But I still cant get used to::eek: 1. Steering wheel on wrong side 2. Driving on the wrong side 3. Wearing jackets in August

Glad you found your Z and plan to get it on the road again. I had to smile when I saw the slogan on the license plate. It seemed to fit right in with the rest of the photo.

It makes the neighbors garage door go up and down like the commercial :knockedou Last time this question was ask it took 37 posts to figure it out so here is the link of you dont want to wait. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4906&highlight=reset+button

I think this is the old thread discussing the issue and several possible solutions. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5545&highlight=throttle+surge

And one more I use. http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/index.php

Here are a couple. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/index.php http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/

Sounds like you have power drain somewhere in your car when the switch is off. If you have a hand held meter available to read the amp draw from the battery, its possible to locate the problem by pulling the fuses one at a time and see if the amp draw stops or decreases to a few milliamps. At least that will narrow down the problem to a certain circuit to check. Even without a meter you could pull all the fuses and see if that eliminates the problem, then replace them a few at a time until the problem returns. If pulling the fuses does not stop the draw your problem may be with the alternator, ignition switch or something not wired through the fuse panel. Good Luck

Ebay has several shifter bushings for sale. Just search there for "240z shifter". The hardest part on changing the bushings is keeping track of the c-clip on the end of the cross pin that the bushings fit over. The clip wants to fly away when you pry it off unless you are very careful.

Your choice of the "best" transmissions and diff will depend on how you plan to use your car - daily driver or competition driver. Here is another site with info on transmissions and rear end data in the technical articles section. http://zhome.com/ The 83ZX 5 speed combined with a 3.90 diff will give you about the same ratios as the stock 4 speed and 3.32 diff, but with a overdrive for the highway. That's the combination that is quite popular and I feel works well for my car which is primarily a pleasure driver any more. I ran the original 4 speed with the 3.90 diff for a few years when I was doing some auto-crossing and that was great for acceleration but not good on the highway, which is why I ended up putting in the 5 speed. The difference between the R180 and R200 with the same ratio will be minimal. Unless you modify your engine or really abuse your driveline, the 180 will be plenty strong and it weighs about 20 pounds less than a 200.

Im only 24 years - older than my Z :classic: Which makes me 60 for those who dont want to do the math.

I dont have much experience with FI cars but yours is obviously running very rich. Have you checked the ignition system - cap, wires & plugs? Maybe the fuel pressure regulator is faulty. The EGR pipe which fell off can be temporarily plugged till you figure out the backfire problem, then the pipe should be replaced, especially if you need to pass emission testing. Good Luck

The pictured dizzy has the support attached. It will bolt right up to your 240. Dont forget to check the vacuum diaphragm for leaks. The module has two wiring connectors, one for +12 volts and the other to the coil - terminal. Do a search if you need more details. Good Luck

I don't have a MSA catalog to look at, but it sounds like the two items could be the same thing. If you are lucky the distributor support will be included with your ZX dizzy. The ZX support is similar to the 240 support in that it is about 2 inches tall and the bottom of the support will have two mounting holes to attach it to the engine. The top part of the support is different in that it has two mounting holes to attach to the distributor and provide the timing adjustment. The 240 has only one mounting hole. Unless your 73 is different from my 71. I doubt your local parts store will have replacement distributor bushings. You will probably have to find a machine shop to make one if you need it. Even the distributor vacuum advance may be a little difficult to locate. I had to get my replacement from the Nissan dealer.

Glad to see you got it fixed. I had to replace my master cylinder just last week due to a major leak.

Welcome Luke, I'm a little closer to Joplin than some members, only one state away I also have a 71 240Z which is still fun to drive and needs regular TLC.

I think the Nissan Maximas also used the same distributor and module in 79 and 80.

You don't have to buy a new coil, but using a newer ZX coil or something like a MSD Blaster 2 coil will give you a hotter spark. As far as buying a 280ZX distributor on a budget, the salvage yards, ebay, or Zcar web sites like this one would be possibilities. Be sure to check any used distributor vacuum advance for leaks as it will likely be worn out if its still the original. Good Luck

No the one I am referring to is an OEM Datsun igniton module and distributor used on some 280Zs about 1979 or 1980. The E12 80 is the simplest to swap into an older Z, but some claim other modules can be adapted. Here is a link to more engine ignition info and you can do a search here for E12 80 also. http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ Good Luck

I have used the original Petronix on my old Nova, which works fine, but on my 71 240Z I use a 280Z distributor with the E12-80 module which was basically a straight swap. It works great and keeps it more original looking if thats what you like.