hd240z

Jack up one of the rear wheels till its off the ground and for safety block the front wheels. Start it up and spin the wheel to see if the sound is coming from the u-joints or anything in the drive line. Dont rev it too much as the wheel will be spinning twice as fast as the speedo says. Good Luck

What year is your Honda? Instrument panel looks like a 98 - 02 Accord, but I could be wrong. Next to the Z, Honda is my next favorite vehicle.

My 71 also had the BRE dual exhaust when I got it 30 years ago and I loved the sound. When it got rusted and started to leak, I replaced it with similar glass packs and pipes from a local muffler shop. The replacement setup sounds as good as the original BRE as far as I can tell. As Zulaytr mentioned the center clearance is a little tight and you need to watch out for high spots even though my car still has the stock suspension.

Sounds like fun, but I doubt I will be able to make the trip. Maybe next year if I do some better planning. Its been several years since the Z was on those mountain roads :laugh:

If you go with a used ZX distributor, be sure to check the vacuum advance as most of them go bad by this time. Good Luck

It is a dashpot and might keep the engine from stalling under some conditions but I think the function was primarily for emissions. Closing the throttle slowly keeps the mixture a little leaner which helped it meet the smog test back in days of old.

Just turned the big 60. Now if I could just remember where I parked the Z :squareeye

I've been using a "plastic" washer for years with no leaks or other problems. I found one that fit rather snugly over the drain plug threads so it doesn't fall off when I do an oil change. I have always been afraid to use those oil drain valve things because it looks to me they could get broken off or accidentally knocked open if you run over something on the road or even take a unplanned excursion through the weeds. The Z has always been the easiest oil change of any car I ever owned. I can reach both the filter and drain plug from the top side.

First of all top off the clutch master cylinder reservoir, it must be nearly empty and sucking air into the hydraulics. Once you get some fluid in it you should be able to tell where the leak is - master cylinder or slave cylinder. As was previously suggested, replacing both is probably a good idea if they are the same age. Good Luck

My 71 mirror requires 2 holes, one aprox 12mm dia for a locating pin and the second for a 8mm mounting stud. You have to install the mounting nut from inside the door. Don't know if your 73 is the same, but those size holes should not be done with bondo. You should be able to pull the door panel and look inside to see what was done. I installed a different mirror with a remote adjuster years ago. It used one of the existing holes for the adjuster cable and the mount covered the other hole. Good Luck

I don't have the numbers for the rpm range, but I do know it works real nice when autocrossing. If you don't want to shift between the corners you can just let it rev and impress the heck out of the spectators

Here is the midwest version of that storm and why my Z is only driven in the summer. My other car is a Jeep!!

When I did my 2/71 5 speed swap I cut 1 inch from the floor tunnel and trimmed the console about 1/2 inch. You can't see the console trimming as it is hidden by the console boot. The boot for the floor tunnel should be changed to the later 72 style boot as it will fit better. In the pics your transmission appears to be missing the smaller dust boot that fits directly on the trany. I used an offset 79 shift lever on my 83 5 speed, but you appear to have that style lever already. Cutting and welding the shift lever as shown in the older post might be another alternative if you have access to welding equipment. Good Luck

I'm running a 80 distributor with the E12-80 module in my 71 and it works great. I understand the E12-92 module with the third wire was intended for computer controlled cars like the 83 ZX. I have heard E12-92 will operate without the computer, but not well. Something to do with the spark advance or lack of. Projekt-Z, does your distributor have a vacuum advance diaphragm? If so then its probably been swapped by a PO. Are you getting a spark to the plugs when you crank it over? If no spark then you have an ignition problem. Good Luck

Nice Z you have there D240Zu. I understand your impatience to take it out. I keep mine in dry storage several miles away from the house so I don't have to see it sitting there every time I open the garage. Mine probably wont see the road till April when its nice and warm and dry. I have been collecting parts and ideas all winter for a few little improvements when it comes out of hibernation.

My 5 speed was from an 83 and the shift lever was too far forward. My 71 shift lever was completely different, so I found one from a 79 that had the correct offset and it was an easy swap. I know some other years (77 - 79?)also have the same offset, but I can't remember right now. The nylon bushings in an old shifter will probably be worn out, but they are also an easy fix. Good Luck

Welcome to the forum. A search will provide more details on the swap that many have done including myself. You may need a different shift lever for the 5 speed to fit your console and maintain the same reach from the drivers seat. Good Luck

Just fly out and drive it back for less than $1K. After all the add says it starts, runs and stops Then you can visit my green Z half way back or if it dies I might have a parts car.

Here is a link to the story about one race teams adventures in Mexico. It has a pretty scary end to it. Don't know if its the same course or not. http://stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28505

I doubt you will be able to tell a noticeable change in performance going from 600 to 1000 feet elevation even though the air density will be slightly lower. Probably some of the real race car guys have the formula for that. I remember that I used to adjust my SU's about 1/2 turn leaner when I would get to Colorado to compensate some of the thinner air at 5,000 feet and higher. Even with the adjustment the performance loss was very noticeable at that altitude.

I bet it for one of those 50 special run Zs

10W-30 Valvoline since new. I used Fram oil filters for 30 years, now its Purolator. Gas for my 71 is 93 octane only with 9.0 to 1 compression (probably a little higher now with 35 years of combustion deposits).

Are you sure the high beam lamps are good? I know its highly unlikely both burned out at the same time but you never know unless you check. Good Luck

Last summer when I decided to tackle my mostly dark instrument lights, I first pulled out the drivers seat (4 bolts and lift it out) then I was able to lay on the floor and get my hand up under the dash to the lights. What I then discovered was the bulbs were not burned out, they just needed the connections cleaned where the socket grounding tab touches the metal instrument panel. I didn't really "clean" them - just pulled the sockets out and then re-seat them in the panel. Maybe thats all yours needs. While I had the seat out I also replaced the worn out retaining straps under the seat cushion, but thats another story. :stupid:

Back in the days I was autocrossing it was called bad loose instead of drifting.