zanthus

Is the paint a spray can? Or are you using a gun? Either way you can try to go over top of whats already there at a farther distance from your panel. If your using a spray gun Turn down the air pressure, usually around 10-15 lbs if your using a HVLP and go over it at a farther distance. It should take out some of the splotchyness.

Hey guys thanks for all your help the car runs so at least I'm doing better than last week. Now lets just hope the module did the fix.

I"ve been wondering if I've been going about this all wrong. I dont get any voltage to my coil right now could or when it would die from being driven. Is it possible that I could have a bad ignition relay?

Alright so I got everything hooked up but no start. It's too late to look at it tonight and figure out why. I was wondering what the B spade on the Module is supposed to hook to. Everything else is self explanatory C spade is the Negative side of the coil. G is the Negative side of the distributor and W is the positive side of the distributor. The only fuzzy part is the B spade.

Thanks for the help. While searching some sites I found a blog where a guy said that he doesn't recommend using the GM HEI module for the fact that there are some issues on power because of the redline of the GM motors vs. the L28. Has anyone had any problems at the top of the RPM range with this mod? I"m just curious, I'm still gonna do it because its a heck of a lot cheaper and I need my car.

Then how do I deal with my factory ignition control module because those directions are for converting a 240 over to HEI module? Would I go about it the same way?

Anyone got a picture of what the module looks like?

So I've been driving my 78 z for a few days now because the weather isn't horrible. But 2 days ago I was driving it to work which is about 10 miles away and about the 8 mile mark all of a sudden the car shuts off. Now I've got no start. I come back later to see if anything can be done and it starts right up. After work I drive it home get about 8 miles and it dies again, no start. After some time (about 2-3 hours) it starts up again. Both times the car just literally dies, no sputtering or anything its almost as if you turn the key off. The last time I had my multi-meter on me and a sparkplug socket. I took a plug out to see if there was any spark an nothing. I was also not getting any voltage to the coil. Does anyone have any ideas? My thinking is that its something in the ignition circuit is getting hot and shutting off. Then after cooling down it runs like a champ. Thats the only thing I got for ideas, has this happened to anyone else?

So I'm bringing this back from the dead for ideas. Until recently I had not had the money to work on my z thus the old post and only now fixing the relative problems. Headlights work, yay me, but I now still have the problem with the turn signals. I have located the problem to the hazard switch, long story short I had no power to the column switch but the hazards do work so I took a jumper wire from the positive cable on the battery and hooked it to the wire coming out of the hazard that is supposed to go to the column switch. Low and behold the turn signals started working. How am I supposed to repair it? I've already taken the switch apart and cleaned the contacts. All the wire and solder looks good (not to self, forgot to check continuity between contacts). That's all I could find with a search of what to do. Anyone else have any ideas? Something a little more in depth isn't that hard for me to do. I'd actually like to drive the bucket on the road this summer and its so close to being legal. Thanks

At least most of you had fairly recognizable cars. Something that had a bit of longevity to it. My first car was a 81 VW rabbit diesel, and I loved it. Sadly though it got rear-ended by a f250 going 45. Rabbit was toast and I needed a car. The POS that I got was an 89 Eagle Premier. It was a car that was only made in 88 and 89 then discontinued. What a patch of hell. When I got rid of it the front blinker on the drivers side and the rear blinker on the passenger side didn't work. The headlights only kinda worked I only had the third brake light work. No radio, one window rolled down then wouldn't roll back up (the other windows didn't work). A/C didn't work nor did the wipers and in Oregon that's a problem. and I could never see anything at night because all the dash lights were out. And of course this was shortly after Eagle ceased to be a car company so trying to find information on it was horrid. So to alleviate my problem I cut the back end off my Rabbit and made it into a truck and drove that thing around. I loved that Rabbit. I hated that Eagle though the only thing that didn't give me trouble was the engine.....huh.

Now since I work for a Zone competitor I'm required to say no. but if your looking to just get your car started and running again on the cheap with the expectation that you'll have to trade the parts out later on then they are decent for that. A lot of the shops that we deal with only use the Zone as a last resort. Some have had good experiences with parts some pretty bad. I think that they work in batches.

Thanks Stephen, as always your a treasure trove of knowledge. I'm gonna do some more research with my down time at work and see if I can find an alternative. If anyone has a parts car with a good pump still in it shoot me a PM

Well if a factory pump is out of the question is there an aftermarket pump that would work best? Has anyone found one?

Okay thanks and no I didnt alter the wiring at all. It is however reading 12 volts so given that the two pumps I bought (one an airtex and one a carter) both failed I was wondering if it was an issue. Luckily I work in a parts store so I dont have to go through the hassle of trying to get my money back. I just had that question. Thanks.

So I bought a new fuel pump after the one I bought little over a year ago died a few months after I bought it. I installed the pump but shortly after that It burnt out. I'm thinking it did so because of a blockage in the tank so I dropped the tank and had it professionally cleaned. Now that I have the tank back I'm gonna get another fuel pump but before I do that I wanna make sure that it didnt burn out because of a voltage issue. I read that it has 12 volts when on but I'm wondering if it has to be lower than that. I would like to know just so I don't potentially blow out another pump.